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Unable to turn Crankshaft by hand!

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    Unable to turn Crankshaft by hand!

    RE: I am working on a F22A1 that has a Crankshaft that will not turn by hand.


    The Story

    This F22A1 is replacing an F22A4 that failed about on Thursday, May 21st, see below.




    May

    I have been working on the car off and on since late-May. It has been slow going since all the parts have come from Majestic Honda and were not ordered at the same time.

    I purchased an F22A1 from the local salvage yard on May 26th. Before removing it from the donor car, I hand turned the crankshaft several times, then inspected the valve train and crankshaft. All was well and the motor only had 114k on the odometer.

    I know the F22A1 is not the same as an F22A4. I brought the F22A1 with the intention of using the F22A4's Distributor (it has an internal Ignition Coil), Exhaust (it has a 4 to 2 to 1 design), and Camshaft; in lieu of the F22A1's Distributor (external Ignition Coil), Exhaust (4 to 1), and Camshaft.

    I do not have a garage, so all work has been done outside, sometimes even in the rain. During this past May, as anyone near North Florida will know, we have experienced some pretty heavy rains. When the F22A1 arrived, it was set down next to my driveway, in the grass.

    June

    On or about June 9th, I do recall having to use the Crankshaft Pulley Holder to remove the A/T Drive Plate from the F22A1; the Holder was used because the Crankshaft kept spinning and I could not remove the 12-point bolts that are typically torqued to 54 foot-pounds. I therefore assume something happened between June 9th and June 23rd. Before installing the motor, I changed all seals on the Oil Pump and the Rear Main Seal, but did not notice the Crankshaft was immobile, nor did I check since I really didn't need to move it for the procedure.

    On or about June 20th, I changed the Spark Plugs on the F22A1. Prior to changing the plugs, I Q-tipped the holes and found water and oil, I cleaned it the best I could before removing and changing the Spark Plugs. On June 23rd, I attempted to install a new Honda Timing Belt on the F22A1 and while setting the Camshaft, Balance Shafts, and Crankshaft (in that order) to TDC, noticed that the Crankshaft Pulley would not turn.

    I am under the assumption that water has worked its way into one or more of the cylinder(s). Last Friday, I bought a can of Sea Foam Deep Creep and have sprayed liberal amounts of it into all four cylinders. Yesterday, I tried moving the Crankshaft, but yielded the same results: no movement.



    The Questions

    I have never dealt with this situation, so I have a few questions:

    1. Can the Head Gasket be reused, just in case I have to remove the head?

    2. Can something else bind the Crankshaft? Keep in mind the Rear Main Seal has been changed, the Oil Pump Housing has been re-sealed, and the F22A4’s transmission is bolted up right now but not torqued down. If I can confirm the cause is one or more seized pistons, I can concentrate my efforts at freeing them up since there is plenty of information here on these type of problems: thread 1, thread 2, thread 3.

    3. Is 14 days of moisture enough to seize pistons, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

    4. Can Spark Plugs leak moisture into a cylinder if submerged themselves?

    5. Can I hit the top of the Pistons without damaging them? This is assuming I am using a 20-inch 3/8” drive extension made of chrome plated steel inserted through the Spark Plug hole and a 16-ounce steel ball peen hammer.

    6. Are there any other methods of freeing a seized motor? The F22A1 Wiring Harness has not been removed and replaced with the F22A4, so I cannot use the Starter Motor right now. Although, I did read that this method can snap the piston o-rings if they are seized.

    7. Is there anyway to verify that the pistons on a motor are seized?

    Question 1 is the most important right now, as I believe the Head is going to come off before this is all over.



    Thank you all for your time and thank you for any information.
    1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
    C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
    MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
    ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

    Originally posted by James Matteu
    You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

    #2
    you have to put some ass into turning it by hand, sometimes more than a skinny white kid can muster so if you're a skinny white kid, that might be the only thing. get a pipe on your ratchet for leverage and it should budge.

    also, the belts are off, aren't they? if you're tryign to turn it all at once while still connected with all the belts, it's gonna be a bitch

    1) you CAN reuse a head gasket but it CAN blow on you the second you crank the engine too. one of those things that is a toss up. i've reused mine on 400hp engines that had 11:1 cr with 20psi of boost. worked fine, but i was lucky and lazy. that feeling you get when it DOESN'T work and you have to tear it all back down is a horrid feeling

    and the timing belt IS still on isn't it? eyeball it and see if it looks to be in time, if it's not, it will bind

    3) 14 days of moisture without a head or pan on, yes, can cause surface rust that makes it a bitch to move

    4) spark plugs are 100% sealed if they're tight

    5) if you have to hit the piston, use something that is almost the same width (weakest areas are toward the middle of the piston) and sometime made of wood that you can hammer is better. put the wood block there and tap away with a normal hammer and it shouldn't hurt much BUT if everything is still connected, it's not gonna move

    6) longer bar/pipe and more leverage and something will give somewhere

    7) look for scarring on the cylinder walls. you can always pull a pan, remove the caps to separate the crank and pistons and then turn the crank to give the piston maximum room to move one by one and then tap them all down to check that way
    ....and on the 7th day, deevergote rested and called his mom.

    Comment


      #3
      its best to get a new HG , considering the one on the engine is over17 yrs old

      -1992 CB7 EX w/H22 [sold 10/09]
      -2005 Legacy GT limited [current]

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by rickyduckworth View Post
        you have to put some ass into turning it by hand, sometimes more than a skinny white kid can muster so if you're a skinny white kid, that might be the only thing. get a pipe on your ratchet for leverage and it should budge.

        also, the belts are off, aren't they? if you're tryign to turn it all at once while still connected with all the belts, it's gonna be a bitch...
        I am a skinny Puerto Rican (30yo, not a kid anymore), but I can turn up to 300 foot-pounds of torque with my 24-inch 3/8" drive breaker bar on my 6-point Crankshaft Pulley Holder. I have contemplated raising the car even more to allow the use of a pipe on my breaker bar.

        Yes, all belts are off.

        Please note, during the 14 days, the Head, exhaust,and intake were still on the F22A1 as it sat in the grass in my yard.

        Originally posted by rickyduckworth View Post
        1) you CAN reuse a head gasket but it CAN blow on you the second you crank the engine too.
        Thanks, I did not know that.

        Originally posted by rickyduckworth View Post
        5) if you have to hit the piston, use something that is almost the same width (weakest areas are toward the middle of the piston) and sometime made of wood that you can hammer is better. put the wood block there and tap away with a normal hammer and it shouldn't hurt much BUT if everything is still connected, it's not gonna move
        Thank you, I didn't know this either. From this information, it appears I can only tap the pistons out with the head off. Everything is connected right now.

        Originally posted by rickyduckworth View Post
        7) look for scarring on the cylinder walls. you can always pull a pan, remove the caps to separate the crank and pistons and then turn the crank to give the piston maximum room to move one by one and then tap them all down to check that way
        I will probably keep trying to turn the motor using a breaker bar over the next week and then pull the head in about two weeks. At that time, I will look for scarring.
        1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
        C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
        MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
        ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

        Originally posted by James Matteu
        You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

        Comment


          #5
          Solved!

          Originally posted by James Matteu View Post
          2. Can something else bind the Crankshaft? Keep in mind the Rear Main Seal has been changed, the Oil Pump Housing has been re-sealed, and the F22A4’s transmission is bolted up right now but not torqued down. If I can confirm the cause is one or more seized pistons, I can concentrate my efforts at freeing them up since there is plenty of information here on these type of problems: thread 1, thread 2, thread 3.

          It was something other than the pistons. Upon further inspection, I noted the A/T Drive Plate seemed to be really close to the Block. I compared the A/T Drive Plate of the F22A1 to that of the F22A4 and noted a difference of about 1mm; the F22A1 being closer.

          I loosened the Transmission Housing Bolts from the Block, about 3mm. Then stuck a flat head between the Transmission and Block, and between the A/T Drive Plate and Rear Main Seal Housing. I bent the edge of the A/T Drive Plate away from the Block, then tried to hand turn the Crankshaft. There was a dull clunk, like some part of the edge of the A/T Drive Plate was still snagged on the Block, then the Crankshaft came free. It spins easily now. I am going to check the edge of the A/T Drive Plate before continuing with my installation of the F22A1, but am confident all is well now.

          Right now, I have to shower, I'm taking the kids to Ollie Koala's.
          1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
          C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
          MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
          ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

          Originally posted by James Matteu
          You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

          Comment


            #6
            I would have never guessed it to be something flexplate related.
            -Big3racing.net-
            My Build Thread. Many pics.

            Comment


              #7
              how bad do the main bearings look? the main journals could be out of round.

              is the replacement crank round and straight?
              I <3 G60.

              0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by wed3k View Post
                how bad do the main bearings look? the main journals could be out of round.

                is the replacement crank round and straight?
                It had nothing to do with his crank or bearings. He used the wrong flex plate for his motor, and when it was bolted down, it was too close to the block and locked it up.
                -Big3racing.net-
                My Build Thread. Many pics.

                Comment


                  #9
                  i don't see how that's possible though, aren't all the automatics the same?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Leung View Post
                    i don't see how that's possible though, aren't all the automatics the same?
                    No idea, but apparently he had a problem with it.
                    -Big3racing.net-
                    My Build Thread. Many pics.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by HondaBob View Post
                      It had nothing to do with his crank or bearings...
                      Correct, this had nothing to do with the Crankshaft or the Bearings.

                      Originally posted by HondaBob View Post
                      ...He used the wrong flex plate for his motor, and when it was bolted down, it was too close to the block and locked it up.
                      Nope, I used to correct A/T Drive Plate. The same A/T Drive Plate is found on both the F22A1 and F22A4.

                      And I hadn't even bolted it to the Torque Converter yet.

                      Yes, it was too close the block and did lock up. The reason behind the approximate cause of the damage to the A/T Drive Plate was that I was not using the proper equipment. I do not have an Engine Hoist, nor do I have an Engine Stand. All work on this motor has been done in my driveway. The A/T Drive Plate was bent while I dragged the F22A1 over to the car after removing the F22A4.
                      1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                      C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                      MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                      ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                      Originally posted by James Matteu
                      You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i have a flex plate just sitting there if you need it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          oh, so it was user error.
                          I <3 G60.

                          0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Leung View Post
                            i have a flex plate just sitting there if you need it.
                            I've got the bent one, which I bent back into shape; and the one off the old motor. I appreciate the offer of assistance.

                            Originally posted by wed3k View Post
                            oh, so it was user error.
                            Yup.
                            1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
                            C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
                            MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
                            ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

                            Originally posted by James Matteu
                            You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

                            Comment

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