F22A4 F22A6 swap parts

[zorobyte]

I have a black 91 accord auto with a F22A6 swap (60K on motor) in a worthless car without a title (long story). I am picking up a 91 Accord EX 5sp w/ a F22A4 w/ 280K on the motor.

I was thinking of putting the F22A6 motor on the titled car, using the F22A4 manifold, adding the F22A6 IAB to a H23A1 intake, and using the F22A6 ECU. I'm going to add a short ram intake and 2.25 catback exhaust.

The F22A6 allready has new starter, alternator, distributor, and possibly water pump. It runs great in exception to not starting right away from time to time (tune up time).

Anything else I can do (for up to $1000) to increase HP/TQ? I don't feel like screwing with a turbo or supercharger right now as I need a cheap, dependable (good looking) ride. I might consider NOS for those awesome freeway mergers or spurts around town without the baby in the car.

Any HP/TQ estimates with what is mentioned above? Would it be worthwhile to tune on this setup with uberdata, etc?

Thank you

[cloudasc]

I essentially have an a6, with an unorthodox racing stock diameter crank & power steering pulleys, bisimoto heat shielding intake manifold gasket, gutted iab spacer (double-stack), h23 plenum & throttle body, intake was gasketmatched, p&p, & flowbalanced. Still using the complete a1 exhaust system, and airbox, and I put down 110whp on an auto in 100*F weather.

Which tranny you plan on using? Ideally, you'd want an h23, or h22 tranny mated to your a6, and that will make you faster (shorter gears, closer gear ratios). If you want the best products for your motor, check out www.bisimoto.com, he has plenty of things to help you go faster, although his products aren't "cheap" but they are still priced better then his high end competitors.

If you were able to tune, I'd upgrade your valve-springs with Bisimoto's Pro Race Springs, and get a his lvl 2 camshaft regrind (send in the old a4 cam). I'd also consider headwork at least on the exhaust side CHR Racing who did my intake has a special for $600 to do just this, add a couple hundred extra and he'll also do the intake side, and for even more money, you could upgrade your valves by +1mm or more. (This is the same person that did p&p on HondaFan81's H23 Intake Manifold & F22A Head)

Your more then welcome! Thanks for the clear and consise post!

[bcjammerx]

Putting the a6 in is a good idea imo

In addition to everything you mentioned

$900 on head work (see hondafan81's thread on it)
or
full intake port and polish (tb down to the runner)

both will set you up for future mods, either n/a or boost...but I think the head work (valve angles and port/polish) will do more for you...h22/23 parts alone will help as they are, full p/p will do a little more...

In other words h22/23 tb/upper plenum p/p with no headwork will not gain as much as
non p/p h22/23 tb/upper plenum + headwork
i think

[cloudasc]

Here is the flow test data release by CHR Racing for the F22A Head:



Some math I did:
Intake = 11.4% Average CFM Increase
.050 / 35%
.100 / 21%
.150 / 15%
.200 / 9%
.250 / 3%
.300 / 4%
.350 / 6%
.400 / 8%
.450 / 8%
.500 / 5%
.550 /



Exhaust = 28.8% Average CFM Increase
.050 / 25%
.100 / 45%
.150 / 32%
.200 / 24%
.250 / 24%
.300 / 26%
.350 / 27%
.400 / 28%
.450 / 28%
.500 / 29%
.550 /

I believe this is also with stock valves. Throw some oversized ones in there, and expect even larger gains.

[zorobyte]

Thanks! Buying a honda was the best I have done since most subaru communities are full of WRX @ssh0les.

Here by fall me and the wife should have everything back on track and moved (time for a garage). I'm a laid off IT guy so im going to pick up newspaper delivery at 4 am every morning for $1k or so a month. Wife works fulltime but I let her keep her checks .

Our rent is $320 a month INCLUDING utilities as it currently stands but all car work has to be done in the street or in a shop. We have super lax police around here. One time I was doing 98 MPH in my oldsmobile (4 yrs ago) down a country road (55MPH) on thanksgiving night and let me go. Another time I had a drunk guy in a truck trying to run me off the road and I was pulled over clocked at 119 MPH in a 40MPH. Didn't even ask to see my ID or anything and they stood around and said they were going to "catch that bastard" (in the truck) and made redneck jokes.

Long term plans for performance is ARP studs, headwork, sleeves, cam, shave, and possibly forged rods/pistons. I'm going for a bulletproof N/A setup and I'm aiming for 160-170HP. I want to do all of this w/ a chip and tune or possibly experiment with megasquirt later on this year when I get a garage.

The white car (the titled 91) has a skunk 2 coilover kit and a stock rebuilt F22 trans (whichever code this may be). I plan on running it for MPG reasons until it blows then get a H22 trans. I'm going to stick with the F22 engine since it is straightforward and very cheaply found in my junkyards (plus I hear the head flows better than the DOHC). This winter I'm going to get the biggest tires that will fit and swap wagon struts on for some fun or pickup a cheap subaru beater to raise hell in.

:edit: Just seen the flow charts, I'm going to move this to the top of my list!

[deevergote]

You're planning a full build and your goal is only 160-170hp? You can do that with headwork and an aggressive cam alone on an F22A! A full build can yeild upwards of 250whp. Granted, that's not the greatest drive around town, but the F22A has a LOT of potential when you're willing to put some dough into it!


For $1000 or so, headwork is a good choice. A Bisimoto header is also a fantastic choice, if you're serious about an NA build (the header is about $1000... but well worth it for someone serious!)

An ECU tune can help at any stage if done well. I usually recommend a tune once a cam is installed, and anything more "serious" after that. Generally, basic bolt-on mods won't need a tune, and you won't gain that much more from it... The only time to really mess with tuning when your mods are limited is if you have the tools to do the tuning yourself. Of course, that could be a wise investment as well.



It's nice to have a new member that reads, plans, communicates, and is actually willing to put time and effort into a CB7! Welcome!

[zorobyte]

I seen on my local craigslist a t3 DSM turbo w/ intercooler and BOV for $60. This kind of stuff wants me to boost, just too cheap.

[deevergote]

Depending on the size, the T3 could be too small anyway... Actually, no DSMs came with a T3, I dont' think! T25 and 14B were the only ones on the manifolds we can use, I think...

But $60... hell... if it works, I'd get it and resell for a profit!

[zorobyte]

250WHP on a N/A setup sounds kick ass to me. There is maybe one person who might have a turbo around my town and the car is rice as hell (spanish rice too). But just about everyone else has LOUD exhaust but super slow. I got in a race with a "JDM" civic stoplight to stoplight and my mom's buick lesabre was way ahead, hell one time my 3 speed auto in my corolla (with 400K miles on the engine!) smoked a "Type-R" something that was dropped all the way to the ground, blue smoke dumping out included.

Seems lately we have the rural king, black smoke dumping, run your jap car off the road lifted diesel penis extensions. The kind of guys who leave big ass ball hitches on their trucks and repeatedly slam on the brakes.

BUILD SECTION -----------------------------------
I got a guy who does cheap cheap exhaust work, I'm going to have him throw on a 2.5 and check my cat, then I'm going to build a intake.

Planned mods in order of operation:
Megan header (as suggested) heat wrapped
Some sort of H series intake
F22B DHOC block for higher compression
Headwork and camshaft (possibly dual springs, etc)

At this point in my build ^^^ I'm planning on chipping a ECU and tuning. I think this build as listed is going to be plenty for a spirited family car until my wife gets her Volvo, then I can go crazy with turbo. I'm sure that I will want to change out the block for the F22A block to drop compression again and get forged internals/sleeve/studs. I will start with a DSM setup and see where that takes me @ 8-12 psi. I have never bult/tuned a turbo car so I want a rock solid engine that I can build up as I learn.


EDIT: The car has a mild exhaust on it as I called the owner. He really has no idea about the car but a drop on coilovers and exhaust could indicate further mods. I'll keep my fingers crossed.