Do You Need To Do Auto/manual Tensioner Swap?

[tweekers]

if i put an h22 into my cb7 do i need to do the manual tensioner conversion?

[tweekers]

well do i? whats the point? pros/cons or whats the deal

[noobcake]

you dont NEED to
its recomended because the automatic tensioners use a spring to keep the belt tensioned.
and if that fails, then your car fails.

[tweekers]

thanks

[deevergote]

Chill the fuck out. If an hour goes by, and you've done nothing but sit there waiting for someone to answer your question, rather than MAYBE put a little effort into trying to find it yourself... you're going to get very little help around here.

No, you don't need to do it. The auto tensioner is known to fail, but it's not overly common. The manual tensioner is more reliable.

[customchord]

Manual tensioner is more user friendly. The auto works if you just replace it. But if you plan to take the timing belt on and off alot maunal it the way to go.

[nine_deuce]

I just did this swap on my h22, total for parts was a little over 155 dollars from Majestic Honda. Great place to deal with. The swap its self is pretty simple and straight forward and can be done with hand tools and a torque wrench.

[N9netwoAccord]

I just did this swap on my h22, total for parts was a little over 155 dollars from Majestic Honda. Great place to deal with. The swap its self is pretty simple and straight forward and can be done with hand tools and a torque wrench.

this is a link to get the parts for an even cheaper price, most of them were OEM as well

http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...cat=134&page=1

[fatboy1185]

my auto tensioner has been fine for the past 8k+ miles i've put on it. Not friendly miles either.

[nine_deuce]

Wow, I wish I would of known about that site, guess I should of shopped around. Oh well, it's done now, no turning back

[Losiracer2]

those auto ones only fail because people don't replace them when they should, like swapping in a JDM motor which is 12 yrs old yet only has 35k miles. That tensioner doesn't last forever, it should be replaced at 90K miles, whenever the T belt is changed.

Although I didn't want to take any chances since I spent my hard earned money to get this engine so I swapped it out for the H23 manual tensioner.

[batever]

I thought that the automatic tensioner spring only set the tension on the belt up until the point that you retighten the tensioner spring adjusting nut (that one that sticks out of the lower timing cover and has a rubber washer over it).

Once that tensioner nut is tightened, it didn't look to me that those adjusting pulleys would move at all. At least they wouldn't move when I pressed against them. So it wouldn't matter how hard you drove the car or how long, those tensioner pulleys wouldn't move. If the timing belt stretched a little, then it would get looser, but not because of the tensioner pulley springs per se but just because of the increased length of the timing belt.

so those springs are only there to set the belt tension during the timing belt change or in the "timing belt tension adjustment procedure" that you can do with the lower timing cover still on the car--once the tension is set, it's good to go and won't change (except from stretching the timing belt or if the tensioner pulley adjusting nut loosens up too much.)

Also, it was my impression that sometimes if the springs are weak you can press the pulleys down harder with your fingers before tightening the nut to assure adequate tension on the timing belt.

The only problem is that if you want to readjust the timing belt tension, you have to disassemble everything to do it instead of relying on just loosening the adjusting nut and rotating the camshaft pulley 5 teeth and retightening the adjusting bolt, because the spring is shot.

Am I wrong about this?

[batever]

I thought that the automatic tensioner spring only set the tension on the belt up until the point that you retighten the tensioner spring adjusting nut (that one that sticks out of the lower timing cover and has a rubber washer over it).

Once that tensioner nut is tightened, it didn't look to me that those adjusting pulleys would move at all. At least they wouldn't move when I pressed against them.

Also, it was my impression that sometimes if the springs are weak you can press the pulleys down harder before tightening the nut to assure adequate tension on the timing belt.

The only problem is that if you want to readjust the timing belt tension, you have to disassemble everything to do it instead of relying on just loosening the adjusting nut and rotating the camshaft pulley 5 teeth and retightening the adjusting bolt, because the spring is shot.

Am I wrong about this?

The only other potential problem would be if your brought the car in to be serviced and they decided to "adjust" the timing belt tension by loosening the adjuster nut, because they didn't realize you have a loose spring and you adjusted the tension with manual assistance, and you ended up with a fried engine.