Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Steering wheel shakes when i press the brakes
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This is all well and good about the "light braking when approaching intersections and regular driving etc," but I thought I'd put a PSA (Public Service Announcement) in that in an unexpected/emergency situation, for safety's sake, it's best to brake early and *hard*, then tail off if you still have braking space.
In other words, for *unexpected* braking, like when someone pulls to close in front of you or you identify something up ahead that might require stopping or evasive movement, brake immediately to near the braking threshold level and tail off the braking if it turns out you don't need it. By immediately decreasing your feet per second while you are still far away from the accident/bad situation, you are buying yourself time for evaluation and further maneuvering.
This technique feels abrupt to most people because they don't know it, and may freak out your passengers who don't know as much as they should about driving safety/technique (that's 99% of the population), but it can save your life--although maybe not your rotors!
Braking late and waiting too long to brake hard is the most common braking mistake that auto engineers discovered and racing trainers find in most drivers, because drivers have been trained in the "brake smooth" school of braking without understanding the full braking safety context. People are afraid to hit the brakes hard because it feels abrupt and they aren't used to it, but in a surprise situation that is usually the best option. (assuming you know someone isn't tailgating, but of course you regularly scan your mirrors and check the rearview, right?).
Also, a related technique when things get dodgy on the road is "covering the brake". Since it takes maybe 3/10 of a second to move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake, whenever you see a situation that you thinkg *may* require braking, what you can do is remove your foot from the gas, pivoting it on the heel, and hover it over the brake pedal. Don't press or "ride" the brake, just "cover" the pedal so your foot is in position to brake once your brain tells it to. This 3/10 of a second saved in braking response time can translate to about 27 feet shorter of stopping distance at 60 mph. (3/10 of a second times 90 fps, which is a good approximation for fps at 60mph. {mph times 1.4666 (I use 1.5 to make it easy on my head) equals feet per second.}]
I used to try to "save" my brakes. But now my experience has shifted me around and my general, philosophy now towards brakes is that they're there to save *me*, I'm not there to save *them*. LOL
As to the OP, I'm betting his calipers are sticking and that's what's causing the warping..Last edited by batever; 05-16-2009, 03:35 AM.
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Originally posted by batever View PostThis is all well and good about the "light braking when approaching intersections and regular driving etc," but I thought I'd put a PSA (Public Service Announcement) in that in an unexpected/emergency situation, for safety's sake, it's best to brake early and *hard*, then tail off if you still have braking space.
In other words, for *unexpected* braking, like when someone pulls to close in front of you or you identify something up ahead that might require stopping or evasive movement, brake immediately to near the braking threshold level and tail off the braking if it turns out you don't need it. By immediately decreasing your feet per second while you are still far away from the accident/bad situation, you are buying yourself time for evaluation and further maneuvering.
This technique feels abrupt to most people because they don't know it, and may freak out your passengers who don't know as much as they should about driving safety/technique (that's 99% of the population), but it can save your life--although maybe not your rotors!
Braking late and waiting too long to brake hard is the most common braking mistake that auto engineers discovered and racing trainers find in most drivers, because drivers have been trained in the "brake smooth" school of braking without understanding the full braking safety context. People are afraid to hit the brakes hard because it feels abrupt and they aren't used to it, but in a surprise situation that is usually the best option. (assuming you know someone isn't tailgating, but of course you regularly scan your mirrors and check the rearview, right?).
Also, a related technique when things get dodgy on the road is "covering the brake". Since it takes maybe 3/10 of a second to move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake, whenever you see a situation that you thinkg *may* require braking, what you can do is remove your foot from the gas, pivoting it on the heel, and hover it over the brake pedal. Don't press or "ride" the brake, just "cover" the pedal so your foot is in position to brake once your brain tells it to. This 3/10 of a second saved in braking response time can translate to about 27 feet shorter of stopping distance at 60 mph. (3/10 of a second times 90 fps, which is a good approximation for fps at 60mph. {mph times 1.4666 (I use 1.5 to make it easy on my head) equals feet per second.}]
I used to try to "save" my brakes. But now my experience has shifted me around and my general, philosophy now towards brakes is that they're there to save *me*, I'm not there to save *them*. LOL
As to the OP, I'm betting his calipers are sticking and that's what's causing the warping..
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Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR View Postyea i believe they are stickin because when i try to go in reverse i hear like a scrappin noise comin from the brakes like the calipers arent releasing
So, when you have the wheel shaking from a warped rotor, be aware that it's also going to delay braking effectiveness.Last edited by dano28; 05-17-2009, 10:16 AM.
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Originally posted by dano28 View PostCalipers don't actually "release". The pads are released by a process known as "knock back". Because your rotors cannot be absolutely perfectly machined, the imperfection will force the pads back. The worse the rotor imperfection is the more the pads will be "knocked back". Really bad rotors will lead to a low brake pedal.
So, when you have the wheel shaking from a warped caliper, be aware that it's also going to delay braking effectiveness.
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Originally posted by dano28 View PostCalipers don't actually "release". The pads are released by a process known as "knock back". Because your rotors cannot be absolutely perfectly machined, the imperfection will force the pads back. The worse the rotor imperfection is the more the pads will be "knocked back". Really bad rotors will lead to a low brake pedal.
So, when you have the wheel shaking from a warped caliper, be aware that it's also going to delay braking effectiveness.
92' Ex - Needs work, but hey! It runs safely
91' Lx -Car vs IDIOT.. R.I.P.
RIP 92' Lx... Car vs Concrete.. Car lost.
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Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR View Postyea i believe they are stickin because when i try to go in reverse i hear like a scrappin noise comin from the brakes like the calipers arent releasing
did you put those rotors on with equal torque on each mounting bolt?
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Originally posted by Aries1911 View PostSorry to jump in here, but could REALLY bad ones cause your brake light or ABS light to come on?
The ABS system, and the brake system are two different things. If your brake light is on, then there is a problem either with the Emergency brake switch, or something wrong in the brake system, such as a bad master cylinder, or wheel cylinder, a leaking hose, etc.
If the ABS light is on, then there is a problem with the ABS, such as a bad pump, or wheel sensor.
Are there any other symptoms? Brake pedal drops low? Strange noises? Fluid leaking, low fluid level, etc.?
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Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR View Posthow do u change the rotors?
Isnt it just that one big bolt in the middle? will it come off after u take that off?
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