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Steering wheel shakes when i press the brakes

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    #16
    Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR View Post
    wut do u mean ride on brakes?
    Use brakes unneccesarily.

    1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
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      #17
      Hi, i have the same problem... is there a DIY to change the rotors ? Can I do it with normal home tools ?

      Comment


        #18
        Go to the DIY section and search for "rotor." (I haven't.) Or better, check the Haynes manual. You should get one. It's not easy, especially if the rotor is old and rusted onto the hub.

        Comment


          #19
          This is all well and good about the "light braking when approaching intersections and regular driving etc," but I thought I'd put a PSA (Public Service Announcement) in that in an unexpected/emergency situation, for safety's sake, it's best to brake early and *hard*, then tail off if you still have braking space.

          In other words, for *unexpected* braking, like when someone pulls to close in front of you or you identify something up ahead that might require stopping or evasive movement, brake immediately to near the braking threshold level and tail off the braking if it turns out you don't need it. By immediately decreasing your feet per second while you are still far away from the accident/bad situation, you are buying yourself time for evaluation and further maneuvering.

          This technique feels abrupt to most people because they don't know it, and may freak out your passengers who don't know as much as they should about driving safety/technique (that's 99% of the population), but it can save your life--although maybe not your rotors!

          Braking late and waiting too long to brake hard is the most common braking mistake that auto engineers discovered and racing trainers find in most drivers, because drivers have been trained in the "brake smooth" school of braking without understanding the full braking safety context. People are afraid to hit the brakes hard because it feels abrupt and they aren't used to it, but in a surprise situation that is usually the best option. (assuming you know someone isn't tailgating, but of course you regularly scan your mirrors and check the rearview, right?).

          Also, a related technique when things get dodgy on the road is "covering the brake". Since it takes maybe 3/10 of a second to move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake, whenever you see a situation that you thinkg *may* require braking, what you can do is remove your foot from the gas, pivoting it on the heel, and hover it over the brake pedal. Don't press or "ride" the brake, just "cover" the pedal so your foot is in position to brake once your brain tells it to. This 3/10 of a second saved in braking response time can translate to about 27 feet shorter of stopping distance at 60 mph. (3/10 of a second times 90 fps, which is a good approximation for fps at 60mph. {mph times 1.4666 (I use 1.5 to make it easy on my head) equals feet per second.}]

          I used to try to "save" my brakes. But now my experience has shifted me around and my general, philosophy now towards brakes is that they're there to save *me*, I'm not there to save *them*. LOL

          As to the OP, I'm betting his calipers are sticking and that's what's causing the warping..
          Last edited by batever; 05-16-2009, 03:35 AM.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by MarX Halvick View Post
            Hi, i have the same problem... is there a DIY to change the rotors ? Can I do it with normal home tools ?
            There are some good writeups here. I don't have the links, but you can find them.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by batever View Post
              This is all well and good about the "light braking when approaching intersections and regular driving etc," but I thought I'd put a PSA (Public Service Announcement) in that in an unexpected/emergency situation, for safety's sake, it's best to brake early and *hard*, then tail off if you still have braking space.

              In other words, for *unexpected* braking, like when someone pulls to close in front of you or you identify something up ahead that might require stopping or evasive movement, brake immediately to near the braking threshold level and tail off the braking if it turns out you don't need it. By immediately decreasing your feet per second while you are still far away from the accident/bad situation, you are buying yourself time for evaluation and further maneuvering.

              This technique feels abrupt to most people because they don't know it, and may freak out your passengers who don't know as much as they should about driving safety/technique (that's 99% of the population), but it can save your life--although maybe not your rotors!

              Braking late and waiting too long to brake hard is the most common braking mistake that auto engineers discovered and racing trainers find in most drivers, because drivers have been trained in the "brake smooth" school of braking without understanding the full braking safety context. People are afraid to hit the brakes hard because it feels abrupt and they aren't used to it, but in a surprise situation that is usually the best option. (assuming you know someone isn't tailgating, but of course you regularly scan your mirrors and check the rearview, right?).

              Also, a related technique when things get dodgy on the road is "covering the brake". Since it takes maybe 3/10 of a second to move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake, whenever you see a situation that you thinkg *may* require braking, what you can do is remove your foot from the gas, pivoting it on the heel, and hover it over the brake pedal. Don't press or "ride" the brake, just "cover" the pedal so your foot is in position to brake once your brain tells it to. This 3/10 of a second saved in braking response time can translate to about 27 feet shorter of stopping distance at 60 mph. (3/10 of a second times 90 fps, which is a good approximation for fps at 60mph. {mph times 1.4666 (I use 1.5 to make it easy on my head) equals feet per second.}]

              I used to try to "save" my brakes. But now my experience has shifted me around and my general, philosophy now towards brakes is that they're there to save *me*, I'm not there to save *them*. LOL

              As to the OP, I'm betting his calipers are sticking and that's what's causing the warping..
              yea i believe they are stickin because when i try to go in reverse i hear like a scrappin noise comin from the brakes like the calipers arent releasing

              Comment


                #22
                it is the rotor, my car does the same, just dont have time to change it.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR View Post
                  yea i believe they are stickin because when i try to go in reverse i hear like a scrappin noise comin from the brakes like the calipers arent releasing
                  Calipers don't actually "release". The pads are released by a process known as "knock back". Because your rotors cannot be absolutely perfectly machined, the imperfection will force the pads back. The worse the rotor imperfection is the more the pads will be "knocked back". Really bad rotors will lead to a low brake pedal.

                  So, when you have the wheel shaking from a warped rotor, be aware that it's also going to delay braking effectiveness.
                  Last edited by dano28; 05-17-2009, 10:16 AM.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by dano28 View Post
                    Calipers don't actually "release". The pads are released by a process known as "knock back". Because your rotors cannot be absolutely perfectly machined, the imperfection will force the pads back. The worse the rotor imperfection is the more the pads will be "knocked back". Really bad rotors will lead to a low brake pedal.

                    So, when you have the wheel shaking from a warped caliper, be aware that it's also going to delay braking effectiveness.
                    yea ima have to get the drilled rotors den n changged my calipers while im at it

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by dano28 View Post
                      Calipers don't actually "release". The pads are released by a process known as "knock back". Because your rotors cannot be absolutely perfectly machined, the imperfection will force the pads back. The worse the rotor imperfection is the more the pads will be "knocked back". Really bad rotors will lead to a low brake pedal.

                      So, when you have the wheel shaking from a warped caliper, be aware that it's also going to delay braking effectiveness.
                      Sorry to jump in here, but could REALLY bad ones cause your brake light or ABS light to come on?

                      92' Ex - Needs work, but hey! It runs safely
                      91' Lx -Car vs IDIOT.. R.I.P.
                      RIP 92' Lx... Car vs Concrete.. Car lost.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR View Post
                        yea i believe they are stickin because when i try to go in reverse i hear like a scrappin noise comin from the brakes like the calipers arent releasing
                        I guess that scraping sound would be the sound of the "brush back" was said above.--and if it's intermittent (scrapes, then scrapes again) that would definitely indicate a warped rotor.

                        did you put those rotors on with equal torque on each mounting bolt?

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by Aries1911 View Post
                          Sorry to jump in here, but could REALLY bad ones cause your brake light or ABS light to come on?
                          In short, no.

                          The ABS system, and the brake system are two different things. If your brake light is on, then there is a problem either with the Emergency brake switch, or something wrong in the brake system, such as a bad master cylinder, or wheel cylinder, a leaking hose, etc.

                          If the ABS light is on, then there is a problem with the ABS, such as a bad pump, or wheel sensor.

                          Are there any other symptoms? Brake pedal drops low? Strange noises? Fluid leaking, low fluid level, etc.?

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                            #28
                            I need to do this because my wheel shakes badly. When I changed my pads last time, the rotors were a real pain to get off. What is the best way to get them off?

                            Comment


                              #29
                              how do u change the rotors?

                              Isnt it just that one big bolt in the middle? will it come off after u take that off?

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by DrSzSoLDIeR View Post
                                how do u change the rotors?

                                Isnt it just that one big bolt in the middle? will it come off after u take that off?
                                Well, you need to take off the bolt on the outside of the hub, its like 22mm or something huge like that. Don't quote me on that. But there are 4 bolts ont he reverse side of the hub holding the rotor on to it.

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