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driver door removal

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    driver door removal

    door removal..

    92 Accord 4 door.. Do I need to take the front driver side quarter panel off to get at the hinge bolts to remove the driver's door ?

    I'm going to the wreckers to score a door - just want to figure out how much I need to remove to get the drivers door off - with no damage..

    #2
    You shouldn't have to just to take the door off, and put a new one on. Dont take the bolts out of the pillar. Just the two at the upper front of the door, and the lower two. Obviously you need to punch out the roll pin in the whatchamacallit that slides in and out of the door when you open/close it. You can make some fitment adjustments with only the bolts on the door, but if the back end of the door is low or high you may need to find some way to lightly loosen, and retighten the hinges on the pillar to correct that. If you are concerned about scratches changing the doors, just put a couple of layers of tape over the fender edge, and the outside of the door. Use a jack, and a block of wood under the door to help hold it up, unless you are going to have a strong extra pair of hands on it with you.
    Last edited by 93accdpj; 05-07-2009, 09:23 AM.
    My inferiority complex isn't as good as yours.

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      #3
      Door wire harness socket behind door boot? ...

      Originally posted by 93accdpj View Post
      You shouldn't have to just to take the door off, and put a new one on. Dont take the bolts out of the pillar. Just the two at the upper front of the door, and the lower two. Obviously you need to punch out the roll pin in the whatchamacallit that slides in and out of the door when you open/close it. You can make some fitment adjustments with only the bolts on the door, but if the back end of the door is low or high you may need to find some way to lightly loosen, and retighten the hinges on the pillar to correct that. If you are concerned about scratches changing the doors, just put a couple of layers of tape over the fender edge, and the outside of the door. Use a jack, and a block of wood under the door to help hold it up, unless you are going to have a strong extra pair of hands on it with you.

      Hello there, when youre taking off the door, is there a socket behind the boot on the door? when I took off my donor doors, I just cut the wire harness as close to the body as I could, and anticipated that id have to solder them back on my car.. Thanks

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by bobmac View Post
        door removal..

        92 Accord 4 door.. Do I need to take the front driver side quarter panel off to get at the hinge bolts to remove the driver's door ?

        I'm going to the wreckers to score a door - just want to figure out how much I need to remove to get the drivers door off - with no damage..
        You can remove them like 93accdpj suggested. If you want to keep the hinges, you can remove then after the door is off as you'll have more room to get at the hinge to body bolts. OR you can remove the inner fender liner and get a combination wrench on the 4 bolts.

        Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
        Hello there, when youre taking off the door, is there a socket behind the boot on the door? when I took off my donor doors, I just cut the wire harness as close to the body as I could, and anticipated that id have to solder them back on my car.. Thanks
        Yes, there is a wiring harness connection right by the inside of the door where the boot is. Is can be a bit tricky to get it to unplug though but no soldering required. Might have an easier time if you remove the speaker.

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          #5
          Originally posted by YK86 View Post
          You can remove them like 93accdpj suggested. If you want to keep the hinges, you can remove then after the door is off as you'll have more room to get at the hinge to body bolts. OR you can remove the inner fender liner and get a combination wrench on the 4 bolts.



          Yes, there is a wiring harness connection right by the inside of the door where the boot is. Is can be a bit tricky to get it to unplug though but no soldering required. Might have an easier time if you remove the speaker.
          Thanks so much!

          Comment


            #6
            1 down 3 to go...

            So I swapped out my front passenger door this morning. Didnt take long, but boy was it a bitch in this nappy ass heat! 90 with a heat index in the 100s..

            But anyway, I had to take out the battery, take off the bumper, loosen the headlamp and take off the fender. FUN! Im glad that the engineers at Honda
            really use that brain power of theirs, There are nice little alignment lines stamped on to the body, it took a whole 5 mins to get the "new" door on and aligned and torqued down,put the mirror back on then ran my door speaker wires and attached the interior panel/switches. I noticed that the original door was lacking that piece of plastic that holds the wire loom from the boot in..ahh gotta love the people that gotta mess with OE shit I bought it used and the other person which I never met, went thru the car and made it Custom Yo! I got black velvet headliner and door liner and rear deck liner wOoO. except dude didnt think to douse the velvet with some tent spray with UV blockers, so its a nice shade of purple..Ghey.... 1 down 3 to go, some rust repair and the bitch is gettin 2 toned..

            Comment


              #7
              what did you torqued it down to?
              i am also removing and installing a new door, rear passenger side, and was wondering and i also would like to know if i have to use thread lock on the bolts that hold the hinges?

              Originally posted by visualpoet
              some owners think it's the best thing since titties

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Juan4DCB7 View Post
                what did you torqued it down to?
                i am also removing and installing a new door, rear passenger side, and was wondering and i also would like to know if i have to use thread lock on the bolts that hold the hinges?
                I just tightened it as much as I could, i dunno maybe 60ftlbs dont quote me, I just "wrenched" on it, No you dont have to use threadlock, I didnt anyway, and there wasnt any originally. The rear doors will be a breeze, maybe a whole 40mins including swapping the door panel. Ive done both front doors now. Just been lazy and havnt done the rears yet. I dont know if there are the alignment notches like up front. What I will do tho is hand tighten the bolts down and close the door, see how it lines up then tighten down. If its a little out of wack, use a floor jack and loosen either the top or bottom bolt and use the jack to nudge it in line

                Comment


                  #9
                  This thread is a life saver. Thanks people

                  Comment


                    #10
                    my driver door does not open at all! i dont know what to do to git it off. ive had people tell me to drill into the door and hope that i break the latch but i dont know

                    what do u guys think

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by nate'sCB7 View Post
                      my driver door does not open at all! i dont know what to do to git it off. ive had people tell me to drill into the door and hope that i break the latch but i dont know

                      what do u guys think
                      You cant open it from the outside and inside too?? =\ ouch. A few weeks ago I parked at home, and pulled the handle to get out and nothing happened. I was able to open from the outside and pulled the interior panel off. Down inside the door on the latch is a purple plastic thing that the detent rod snaps into, its sorta like that clip thats on the handle, that you turn and pop on. Mine was old and broke, I was able to do some magic and fix it with 2 little zipties and a contortion act and some long needle nose pliars. So my guess is that both the clips for the detent rods have popped off or broke or w/e. Somehow youre gona have to get behind the panel with a flashlight, will and n.n. pliars and manually pop the latch. or if you have a replacement door, get a hole saw and cut a hole on the outside to pop the latch. I dunno man Im glad im not in your predicament though.

                      ------------------------------------------------------------------------

                      As for the other dude doing back doors, I went and looked there are notches on the back hinges and body pillar. Ive included a pic. It looks easy to replace. you just match the lines up with the notches on the hinge. adjusting for how it sits, pretty much if you get it to line up like that right off on BOTH hinges, itll be perfect.
                      Last edited by illinois_erik; 07-22-2009, 11:30 AM.

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