kms block plate, got mine for 12 shipped, and took them 3 days to get here. ur in orlando also, so it should go quick. its thick as hell.
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more egr problems ( block off plate fail--- VIDEO ---)
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sounds like a really bad exhaust leak in that first vid. Exhaust leaks kinda sound like a sputter sputter and could kill your power if bad enough. Have you checked your header under the heatshield?
member's ride thread
93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
91 Accord SE 176k
97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents
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^^^i don't have any exhaust leaks
but i do have some enlightening news, well for me
i cleaned up all the messy oil ( cuased by my VC bolts that snapped ) that leaked into the tubes,
and the car purred again with no misfires, tho i did take it lightly , the car didnt get a full warm up before i turned it off. guess i will see tomorrow when i really drive the car
on the other note, i ran a compression test anyhow , these were the numbers
sq. in / X100
#1cyl - 236 psi / 16.3 Kpa
#2cyl - 150 psi / 10.4 Kpa
#3cyl - 240 psi / 16.5 Kpa
#4cyl - 240 psi / 16.5 Kpa
yeah cyl two sucks , either way , i am gonna get a head job planned for the summer hopfully
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A head job won't bring that cylinders compression up. Your best bet right now is to retest that cylinder but pour a (small)bottle cap of oil down the cylinder and see if the compression changes any. If it does, it's your rings that are fucked on that one. If it doesn't go up, your valves are fucked. Which a head job will be beneficial to you.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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Originally posted by d112crzy View PostA head job won't bring that cylinders compression up. Your best bet right now is to retest that cylinder but pour a (small)bottle cap of oil down the cylinder and see if the compression changes any. If it does, it's your rings that are fucked on that one. If it doesn't go up, your valves are fucked. Which a head job will be beneficial to you.
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ok...,
that compression variance sucks! Please do a leak down test when the motor is fairly warm... Having a really nice compression/leakdown test numbers when cold is tits (like when the motor is 2 weeks old), but in reality, it matters most when warm.
Leak down to see if it's the head or pistons. you might have a carbon booger stuck on a valve from cleaning the EGR ports so run it hot and nasty for a while (after you fix this misfire/oil leak issue) to see if it cleans up as well. If it's in the head, then rebuild it at your leisure, if its the pistons, well, that's a major overhaul needed.
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Originally posted by madwagon View Postok...,
that compression variance sucks! Please do a leak down test when the motor is fairly warm... Having a really nice compression/leakdown test numbers when cold is tits (like when the motor is 2 weeks old), but in reality, it matters most when warm.
Leak down to see if it's the head or pistons. you might have a carbon booger stuck on a valve from cleaning the EGR ports so run it hot and nasty for a while (after you fix this misfire/oil leak issue) to see if it cleans up as well. If it's in the head, then rebuild it at your leisure, if its the pistons, well, that's a major overhaul needed.
i would only need a leak down on cyl 2 to find where pressure is leaking( from the head, not piston ). i highly doubt i would notice a difference if the engine is cold or warm, pressure build up from the piston should not change much whether the engine is warm or cold, if it did, that would be a big issue
i was told that egr servicing could not bend a valve by carbon build up, but who knows , the motor is "only" 8 yrs oldLast edited by ibr_adam09; 05-01-2009, 01:38 AM.
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the pistons expand with heat (to varying degrees depending on application.)
ever heard of piston slap. Ever heard a volvo start up cold? You (are supposed to) do 99% of your driving with the engine warm and that's how they engineer the tolerances. Cold engines are inefficient for many reasons.
Again, you have one low cylinder which is not good, but not a MAJOR problem if it smooths out a bit when warm. You should still do a leak down on that cyl. Best if you try it cold and hot for comparison.
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i understand what you mean about the hot / cold thing
i'd rather have closed seals when the engine is hot and cold, but right now there is no seal around cyl 2 when cold , leak could be "gone" if the engine is hot ,but with a 90psi difference from the rest , thats where my doubts come in and likey have a head leak possibly intake side.
i am ganna do a leak down test anyways , b/c in the future i when i do a tear down i would like to know where its coming from first
and the plan old fact that it would suck to work on a hot engine =/Last edited by ibr_adam09; 05-01-2009, 01:52 AM.
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if the leak is in the head, do some seriously hard pulls on that mama and see if it burns off.
Was the compression like this before you cleaned the EGR system? or do you know?
It *could* be carbon knocked loose from the EGR cleaning and now stuck on the face of the valve. Carbon can be some nasty shit. If it is a head leak, maybe do a SeaFoam cleanse (just don't hydrolock the motor). That should help soften up any potential carbon.
If you don't believe carbon can be a problem go look at any rotory RX-7 forum.
I've personally replaced a Volkswagen TDI engine because of 'carbon lock.' (so much loose carbon that it jammed the piston and bent the rod!!!)
So if the leak down is in the head and a good romp and/or SeaFoam soak doesn't clear it up, then yeah, you should rebuild the head.Last edited by madwagon; 05-01-2009, 02:06 AM.
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ever since the egr port cleaning i did use two cans of throttle body cleaner to loosen any carbon still stuck, have used seafoam before the egr port cleaning before tho. but both products are the same crap, petroleum.
i probably had this leak this whole time and just now found out , the last time a compression test was done was little over last year by my teacher , i cant remember the numbers
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not to be an ass but... you don't know.
Diagnostics IS scientific work. You ultimately cannot rely on anything you have not directly measured or proven. So you always start with the general concepts and work your way down to more complicated theories as you prove/disprove elements. The moment you assume something is the second you fuck yourself. Just do the logical tests and chase the clues. Ask questions when you don't understand the results. (I've been an tech for 5 years and I learn stuff everyday.)
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Originally posted by madwagon View Postnot to be an ass but... you don't know.
Diagnostics IS scientific work. You ultimately cannot rely on anything you have not directly measured or proven. So you always start with the general concepts and work your way down to more complicated theories as you prove/disprove elements. The moment you assume something is the second you fuck yourself. Just do the logical tests and chase the clues. Ask questions when you don't understand the results. (I've been an tech for 5 years and I learn stuff everyday.)
For example, my brothers 350 in his Chevy. It pings like a motherfucker. You'd assume bad gas, or over advanced timing right? Well...it makes sense. But you'd be wrong, a compression test reveals low compression on two neighboring cylinders, indicating a bad head gasket. The head gasket is allowing oil into the chamber, lowering the octane, and causing detonation.
You have to do the proper diagnostics to figure out the problem. I can't even begin to tell you how many different things I examined before I came to that conclusion.Originally posted by sweet91accordif aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.
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