f22a1 turboing tips needed!

[rexload]

you don't need to do anything to make a chipped P06 "work on an F22a", you just plug it in and it works (you do need to tune it though just like any other engine management)

IMO for 400hp, there is no need for AEM EMS.

and with $8,000 into a turbo F22 build, you should be making at least 700hp unless you are buying a bunch of parts you don't need

[fstacrd]

i would love to know how to make 700hp... sorry for all this im new to tuning and turboing... it would be my first turbo car... but wat do i need to make 700hp?

[WiKKeDV16]

Here's a thought..build it to handle 700..but drive it at 300..till u ge the grasp of driving a turbo'd car..

For 700whp reliable

Sleeved block
Cp pistons
Carillo rods
Arp bolts everywhere
Cometic hg
Ported head
Cam
Cam gear
Valve springs
Retainers
Ported IM
70mm tb
Topmount manifold
Gt42r
1600cc injectors
Two fuel pumps
And then I would definetly get something with more options for fuel management like haltech(shameless plug for chessboxer..haha chime in mike!)

[fstacrd]

haha lol well my friend 93accordfreak said i should just stick with 250 whp so i think i'll get a dsm turbo setup, p06 chipped ecu, h23 tranny. i also found a site that does custom axles for this setup that is $487 per pair... good up to 350whp... i think its a good investment. i just want my car to shut up my friend with a gt mustange (damn v8's)... i appreciate everyones input on this build maybe one day when i get enough money i'll build up an h22 turbo hahahaha.... add me as a friend if ya like... ty

[chessboxer]

AEM would be expensive and honestly unnecessary considering the price of a chipped p06 or p28 (for vtec), and the FREE tuning software you can get for it.

And with your car not making much traction now, I'd be more worried about getting everything squared away at stock first, maybe some better quality drop springs than those you have and some good shocks.

The benefits of a standalone extend far past what you can get out of the free and chippable ecus. Not to knock the chipped programs, because you can do a lot with them. But when you get into doing things like quadrupling the output of a stock motor, you are going to want to start looking into quality engine management, so I'm not talking about AEM here. A PNP Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 retails for 1346 with a harness, and is a great option.

Now, not to turn this into when a standalone becomes necessary, but I may as well throw in my 2 cents here.

If you want to datalog at up to 200 samples per second, run a dash like the Racepak IQ3 or an AIM Sports MXL, if you want a tuning resolution of 32x32, if you want the extra inputs to run a coil on plug conversion, if you want VE tuning, if you want want to control everything (Nitrous, Water Methanol, Boost Control, Vtec, etc, etc) with one unit, if you want to run additional inputs such as a wideband, Oil PSI, Fuel PSI, Oil Temp, EGT, and to have 1 unit monitor and log them all, if you have more in your engine than your car is worth, THEN you should look into a standalone. (Especially a Haltech!) /shameless plug. (P.S. We don't do public sales, we only sell to dealers)

I ran a chipped p06 for ages, and could still run one today in all honesty, but for some people, especially those with big builds, they could benefit from an all inclusive, everything in one unit.

You can do a lot with free programming tools, but once you get so far involved in a build, I think it becomes important to look into a standalone. It is not for everyone, but for an involved build, or for someone who wants one unit to truly do it all, then thats when you need it. You can even maintain your a/c with a standalone such as our Platinum Sport units.

/threadjack.

As for your build, don't say you want to make x hp and x psi unless you have done some amazing calculations, know your turbo and your engine flow characteristics and everything else.

You can make 400 whp on 14 psi, but its going to take a HUGE turbo, lots of headwork, and a built bottom end. A nice 250 ish whp is more than enough for a dd car, and can be attained with a good setup and a good tune. Don't cut corners and buy ebay knock stuff, and you should be good to go. Only buy authentic turbos, especially if you stick with the DSM stuff, make sure that you get a real deal MHI turbo if you don't look into something else such as precision turbo or somewhere else.

[chessboxer]

i would love to know how to make 700hp... sorry for all this im new to tuning and turboing... it would be my first turbo car... but wat do i need to make 700hp?

A greater knowledge of how turbo systems and engines work.

And money, lots of it to burn. 700 hp is for the most part useless in a fwd car.

[turbo90accord]

Here's a thought..build it to handle 700..but drive it at 300..till u ge the grasp of driving a turbo'd car..

For 700whp reliable

Sleeved block
Cp pistons
Carillo rods
Arp bolts everywhere
Cometic hg
Ported head
Cam
Cam gear
Valve springs
Retainers
Ported IM
70mm tb
Topmount manifold
Gt42r
1600cc injectors
Two fuel pumps
And then I would definetly get something with more options for fuel management like haltech(shameless plug for chessboxer..haha chime in mike!)

400hp is easy on an f22 and can be done with simply forged rods and pistons some arp hardware and valvesprings. 400hp can be attained without headwork, cams, gears or all kinds of other unessassary stuff. even 700hp is possible with a unworked head we do it on preludes all the time with just adding valve springs and retainers and no headwork whatsoever.
for 700hp-
a cometic gasket is definatly not the way to go stick with an OEM gasket that is bored to whatever your engine is.
top mount manifold is not needed.
cam and camgear is not needed
headwork not needed
ported IM and TB not needed just run a h22 plenum and TB

[fstacrd]

i did a little bit of research on an ecu... u said use a p06 for tuning... would a p28 ecu work???

[drummersteve7]

p28 includes vtec, try the p06

also leave the axles alone if your making under 450hp. They do great!

[fstacrd]

well i keep breaking them right now lmao

[visualpoet]

well i keep breaking them right now lmao

Learn to launch. There's no way your f22a1 is breaking axles. If you're trying to stretch the truth to impress us, it won't work. some of us actually have a clue.


Why would you specify that you want 400 hp, not whp?

[fstacrd]

i did that cuz on my last thread ppl kept talking about whp when i was really talking about just hp lol... but the axles do keep breaking i guess cuz i bought them off ebay..... not both of them just my driver side one

[turbo90accord]

i did that cuz on my last thread ppl kept talking about whp when i was really talking about just hp lol... but the axles do keep breaking i guess cuz i bought them off ebay..... not both of them just my driver side one

I have used ebay and oem axles with well over 500hp on cb7s and never broken one as well as have friends with 700+hp preludes that are on stock axles with no problems. why you are breaking yours with a stock f22 must be directly from driver error which is weird because an ebay axle is stronger than a f22 launched on slicks at 5000rpm i know because ive done it.

[visualpoet]

i did that cuz on my last thread ppl kept talking about whp when i was really talking about just hp lol... but the axles do keep breaking i guess cuz i bought them off ebay..... not both of them just my driver side one

Time to replace some mounts. It sounds like it's binding up, which leads me to think the motor/tranny are shifting. And you'll find out that hp isn't as accurate a representation of your power as whp. 400 at the crank is less than 350 at the wheels.

[bcjammerx]

I went to holsets site...cumins...all I could find was for diesel engines...are there turbos huge? Why not go with t3/t4 (isn't t04 a bit big?) or 16g?