help please, wont start second time

[vjekoaccordRT]

When i drive, some time she turns off and don't wont to start again, then after 5 to 10 min. she start, that is all. Not always and there is not any specific time when she doing that. Does anyone had this problem or know what is the mater with her? 92year F20A. Everything else working great.
This is the 3 time that she done this.
Thanks

[ExplodingCake]

Igniter & main relay most commonly.

When it dies , does the main relay make a click when you start it up?
If yes then relay is ok , if no then your relay is dead.

[vjekoaccordRT]

Igniter & main relay most commonly.

When it dies , does the main relay make a click when you start it up?
If yes then relay is ok , if no then your relay is dead.

i didn't listen relay. Now she starts every time. When she goes off again i will chek main relay.
That's under the stering wheel dash??
And my english is not so great so ''igniter'' do you have pics of that??

[David Lundin]

To check if your main relay is the problem, when turning the ignition on (all the way to the point BEFORE the starter starts cranking the engine), can you hear the fuel pump start whirring? If (when it's not starting) the car is completely silent, try turning all the way and start cranking and give the area around the footrest a swift kick while the engine is turning. If it's a solderjoint for the main relay that's gone bad it may just start with some coaxing

If that is the case either resolder the main relay or if that sounds a bit too much for your skills get someone to do it. Of course the main relay itself may be gone, but it's quite often just the solderjoints that's gone bad.

If neither of my suggestions yield the desired results look into the igniter as that's also a common problem, one I haven't experienced though but I'm sure someone else can help you there.

EDIT: I did find this instruction for checking the igniter on a Civic, it should be very similar on your Accord I reckon:

"In order to reach the Igniter Unit, you should remove the Distributor Cap and Leak Cover, which is a plastic thing just under the Rotor (it might help if you remove the rotor as well). Ignition Coil is on top of the distributor (you'll only see it if you remove the Distributor Cap) and the Igniter Unit is a match-box like unit, just under the rotor. You can see it once you take the Leak Cover off. Now you should see 4 wires connected to the igniter: WHT, BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU and BLU.

Now here is how to diagnose problems with the Igniter Unit:
Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltate, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the igniter unit and the ignition switch.
Next, check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check for: faulty ignition coil or an open in the WHT/BLU wire between the igniter unit and the ignition coil.
Next, check for continuity between the WHT wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the WHT wire between the igniter unit and the ECU or poor ground.
Next, check for continuity between the BLU wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the BLU wire between the igniter unit and the tachometer (or the A/T control unit) or poor ground.
And if all continuity and voltage tests are normal (with a known good 50A fuse), but the engine won't start - replace the igniter unit."

Best of all, I found it here: http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...post-9924.html and it was posted by a guy called "CroCivic91" from Croatia, so if language is a problem you should try to get in contact with him perhaps

[ExplodingCake]

i didn't listen relay. Now she starts every time. When she goes off again i will chek main relay.
That's under the stering wheel dash??
And my english is not so great so ''igniter'' do you have pics of that??

The relay is located above the interior fuse box. It is labeled as Relay assembly made by Mitsuba. It's about 2x2 inches in measurements.

The igniter is located inside the distributor


It's #10. Be sure to check everything first before replacing them , because a sudden engine stop symptom has a lot of possibilities.

[vjekoaccordRT]

To check if your main relay is the problem, when turning the ignition on (all the way to the point BEFORE the starter starts cranking the engine), can you hear the fuel pump start whirring? If (when it's not starting) the car is completely silent, try turning all the way and start cranking and give the area around the footrest a swift kick while the engine is turning. If it's a solderjoint for the main relay that's gone bad it may just start with some coaxing

If that is the case either resolder the main relay or if that sounds a bit too much for your skills get someone to do it. Of course the main relay itself may be gone, but it's quite often just the solderjoints that's gone bad.

If neither of my suggestions yield the desired results look into the igniter as that's also a common problem, one I haven't experienced though but I'm sure someone else can help you there.

I am car mehanic, but my english is not so great, and i can't get her to that point, this is the 3 time in 8 months that she do this, so i must wait again for this to hapen so i can figure what is the problem, i think the fuel pump was working because i will notice that wrightaway

[vjekoaccordRT]

The relay is located above the interior fuse box. It is labeled as Relay assembly made by Mitsuba. It's about 2x2 inches in measurements.

The igniter is located inside the distributor


It's #10. Be sure to check everything first before replacing them , because a sudden engine stop symptom has a lot of possibilities.

Yes ok, i know now what is igniter, the distributor is new, oem honda so igniter is too, main relay working, no cell light, no error codes on ecu, i will find the problem i hope. Will let you know, now i can't start her again, fu..

[vjekoaccordRT]

If this is igniter, (inside of distributor) he is new, distributor cap and rotor is also new, as sparks and spark plugs, new. So that is not the isue.

[David Lundin]

It's not one of the obvious "90s Honda problems" then unfortunately...

If you find out what it is/was, let us know!

[ExplodingCake]

Ok , if it does happen again , check for sparks and fuel. If one of those is not present then we can narrow it down.

[vjekoaccordRT]

To check if your main relay is the problem, when turning the ignition on (all the way to the point BEFORE the starter starts cranking the engine), can you hear the fuel pump start whirring? If (when it's not starting) the car is completely silent, try turning all the way and start cranking and give the area around the footrest a swift kick while the engine is turning. If it's a solderjoint for the main relay that's gone bad it may just start with some coaxing

If that is the case either resolder the main relay or if that sounds a bit too much for your skills get someone to do it. Of course the main relay itself may be gone, but it's quite often just the solderjoints that's gone bad.

If neither of my suggestions yield the desired results look into the igniter as that's also a common problem, one I haven't experienced though but I'm sure someone else can help you there.

EDIT: I did find this instruction for checking the igniter on a Civic, it should be very similar on your Accord I reckon:

Best of all, I found it here: http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...post-9924.html and it was posted by a guy called "CroCivic91" from Croatia, so if language is a problem you should try to get in contact with him perhaps

Man you are GREAT!!!!! Thanks for helping, but distributor is not problem.
This is gona be stupid but inside of igniton key lock, if corect(the hool where you put your key to start the car ), is very dirty, conections are black and i just put some WD on them and she is starting every time, there is also dust from paint job that was done a few days ago. i think it's ok now

[ExplodingCake]

Man you are GREAT!!!!! Thanks for helping, but distributor is not problem.
This is gona be stupid but inside of igniton key lock, if corect(the hool where you put your key to start the car ), is very dirty, conections are black and i just put some WD on them and she is starting every time, there is also dust from paint job that was done a few days ago. i think it's ok now

Forgot to add that , I guess you didn't need help after all

[vjekoaccordRT]

Forgot to add that , I guess you didn't need help after all

aha litle shits hapening, i am mehanic and i love streetrace 402m or 1/4mile, was driving nissan 200sx rs13 92, integra 98, civic iVT 91, all my friends comes to me if they have any problem like this, or something that is hard to find, i like that kind of work and i always find the problem, two weeks ago my friends swift gti wont start when cold, starts and then go off and wont start again, 3 days i was try to find the litle shit called, switching places on idle speed valve and water temperature sensor because they are same color and can go eather way. Stupid mistake from ex ovner.


But Thanks to you all for helping me, i can't belive that you are so good guys.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH EVERYONE!!!