**Issue after timing belt job**

[**CB7**]

Hello cb7tuner . I own a few CB7's. The one I would like to talk about is a 1993 accord lx (auto) with 220,000 miles. I have a weird issue that I just can't seem to figure out. I just recently did a full timing belt job last week and after test driving the car, I knew something didn't feel right.

From a stop, I'll start to gas it and it just LAGS the power to go anywhere. After slowly getting to 2000RPM's the power finally kicks in and it'll accelerate fine.

Going up a hill, I'll gas it and it basically does the same thing and start lagging power. I'll push my foot down more on the gas and then it'll finally downshift and accelerate fine.

The car is smooth once im at a steady speed.

I have no codes from either TCU or ECU.
I've swapped 3 different TCU's, 2 ECU's, and the shift solenoids with working ones. After each swap, I properly reset the computers.
I checked my timing and it's perfect. Checked TPS sensor and it's within Hayne's specifications. I've checked all vacuum lines and electrical connections.

The car ran great before the timing belt job.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

[JDM_CB7_TX]

Is the car auto? From the sounds of it it sound like it may be something going on with either a lack of gas or transmission issue. If the timming is on then it must be something else.... I think I never had that issue but from the sounds of it it looks like it might be something else bud.

Sorry I couldn't be of much help. Hope you get it running right man..

[deevergote]

Are you 100% certain the timing marks on the cam gear and crank pulley are lined up? You may be off a tooth... That's the only thing I can think of that would be related to the timing belt job.

[WiKKeDV16]

Highly agree...I did the tbelt job on my prelude..and I was off timing..and I noticed the same symptoms your referring..laggy power until high rpm range...and once u were up there..it was more/less ok..

Even if it looks dead on..remove the belt and start over..

[bruno8747]

Two teeth off on the timing will cause issues like that. If you are off around 3 or so engine tends to have a hard time starting.

[**CB7**]

Are you 100% certain the timing marks on the cam gear and crank pulley are lined up? You may be off a tooth... That's the only thing I can think of that would be related to the timing belt job.

With my timing light, the timing seems dead on. If I were off by a tooth, could the timing still show that its dead on but really be off? <- Does that make sense?

[deevergote]

Ignition timing and cam timing are different things. Related, because the distributor is turned by the cam... but if your cam gear is offset by one tooth, then you could still set your ignition timing to be "on"... but the actual spark will be occuring either too soon or too late in the combustion cycle, because the piston won't be where it's supposed to be.

[AbsurdNY]

Ignition timing and cam timing are different things. Related, because the distributor is turned by the cam... but if your cam gear is offset by one tooth, then you could still set your ignition timing to be "on"... but the actual spark will be occuring either too soon or too late in the combustion cycle, because the piston won't be where it's supposed to be.

X2. This is the exact problem I think I am having. I think my cam timing is off by a tooth. If I set my ignition timing with a timing light to the factory spec, the motor runs like shit. I actually have to set the timing just by "feel" to have the motor run smooth. My ignition timing is actually retarded right now and that is where it runs best because of the cam timing being off. I have the same lag until about 2500 rpm. I floor it and it lags until 2500 then all the sudden it pulls hard. For a while I thought this was a issue with my P12 ECU. I cannot remember if it did this before the P12. I thought that maybe the pull that I felt at 2500 rpm was the increase of power that the P12 added over the PT3. I plan on replacing my timing belt and taking off my balancer belt in the summer so hopefully this will resolve my issue by fixing the cam timing.

[deevergote]

Having the cam gear be off by a tooth does more than just mess with the ignition, though. Your valves are opening a little too soon, or a little too late. Essentially, this is like having and adjustable cam gear... but if it's not the effect you're looking for, then it's not a good thing.

Pull your valve cover and check the timing marks on the crank pulley and cam gear. The crank is keyed, so the crank pulley CAN'T be off.

[AbsurdNY]

Having the cam gear be off by a tooth does more than just mess with the ignition, though. Your valves are opening a little too soon, or a little too late. Essentially, this is like having and adjustable cam gear... but if it's not the effect you're looking for, then it's not a good thing.

Pull your valve cover and check the timing marks on the crank pulley and cam gear. The crank is keyed, so the crank pulley CAN'T be off.

Thanks man. I might actually do that right now. Hopefully I can put the valve cover back on with the old gasket and not have it leak. I just replaced my gasket a couple weeks ago. Ahh damn I should have checked it then.

[deevergote]

I've reused the gasket on my H22... and it may very well be original! Get some blue gasket maker and put it over the cam humps and you should be fine. Especially if it's a new gasket. The valve cover gasket isn't subject to incredible pressure and heat like some of the other gaskets in the engine... it's reusable to a point.

[AbsurdNY]

I've reused the gasket on my H22... and it may very well be original! Get some blue gasket maker and put it over the cam humps and you should be fine. Especially if it's a new gasket. The valve cover gasket isn't subject to incredible pressure and heat like some of the other gaskets in the engine... it's reusable to a point.

Yes I always put some gasket maker on those humps. Those are always prone to leaking. Thanks a lot Deev. You were a big help. Hopefully this will help the OP as well

[**CB7**]

Ignition timing and cam timing are different things. Related, because the distributor is turned by the cam... but if your cam gear is offset by one tooth, then you could still set your ignition timing to be "on"... but the actual spark will be occuring either too soon or too late in the combustion cycle, because the piston won't be where it's supposed to be.

Makes sense. I appreciate everyone's help. Good thing I have another accord up and running for the time being because I won't be able to fix the problem for probably a few weeks.

I'll post the results after I fix it.

[deevergote]

Hopefully that's the only problem.

In the meantime, try moving the distributor. If the gear is off by a tooth, you'll probably have a similar result that AbsurdNY had. It should run better with the ignition timing "off" by a bit.

[**CB7**]

Two teeth off on the timing will cause issues like that. If you are off around 3 or so engine tends to have a hard time starting.

She starts up right away.