dsm setup

[bcjammerx]

browsing some parts places

for JUST the exhaust part of this setup and buying EACH part separate would I need


90-94 Eclipse GST Exhaust Manifold



T-25 to T-3 Turbo Adapter

t25 or t3 turbo...

.and downpipe...

aside from a wastegate what else?

found this stuff on ebay for pretty cheap...figure I can buy cheap...reabuild...then turbo eventually down the road...get the parts ready

would I need one of these?


perhaps this would save money

[bcjammerx]

bump

[boostdelinquent]

14b's and 16g's are usually internally gated so you shouldn't need a wastegate. Besides a DP it looks like you have most of what you need as far as the exhaust side of the equation is concerned.

[bcjammerx]

coool thanks for the reply.

Seems these things are on ebay frequently so I could buy one at a time...haven't done a cost check to see if a full system is cheaper.

[boostdelinquent]

Getting a full kit cheaper really depends on the kit you go with. IMO you can get stock DSM turbo components for so cheap that in most cases you can put together a pretty decent kit for about the same price as the Ebay turbo kits. The only thing I would do is use a FMIC instead of the stock SMIC.

EDIT: What are you going to use for injectors and engine managment?

[H22A_lude]

EDIT: What are you going to use for injectors and engine managment?

engine managment will probably be the most costly part.

[bcjammerx]

I haven't decided that yet, I'm still looking into what members here are using...I think I found one but I need to research that more.

The injectors...uh...the dsm ones...again, more research is needed on my part but as I recall there are some OEM dsm injectors that work well.

These parts are just so daggum cheap it SEEMS like buying them one at a time is cheaper than those whole kits.

There are some parts of course that WILL be costly, as pointed out, the engine management system. BUT I hope to already have that before I boost.

Most likely I would buy these parts but not actually use them for years. I'm building a moderate N/A engine first.

[boostdelinquent]

Tuning shouldn't be that expensive unless you buy all the stuff to do it yourself. Here's the way I calculate it: DSM 450's 50-75$ tops, socketed ECU chipped w/ basemap 150$. After that any tuning shop should have the rest of the equipment needed to tune it like the eprom emulator and such. From there it's only a matter of what the shops hourly dyno rate is.

[bcjammerx]

Tuning shouldn't be that expensive unless you buy all the stuff to do it yourself. Here's the way I calculate it: DSM 450's 50-75$ tops, socketed ECU chipped w/ basemap 150$. After that any tuning shop should have the rest of the equipment needed to tune it like the eprom emulator and such. From there it's only a matter of what the shops hourly dyno rate is.

weeeeell, for my initial n/a build I plan on street tuning quit a bit before going to dyno...but that won't happen until I do some more extensive engine mods...which is why that particular mod is WAY down the road.

I don't know...might get the block done how I want (forged internals, slight bore, but no re-sleeve), p/p intake, bore the tb...etc etc...then do head work, basically get all the bolt-ons and p/p work I can without NEEDING a re-tune.

THEN get all I can out of tuning the ecu myself...THEN go turbo...

Not only are my current build funds limited, my experience is as well, so I have to go slow and step by step. This way, by the time I have the parts I will know...well...what I have and what I can do with them.


Another question...where does that second to last part sit in relation to the turbo and the manifold..can't picture it in my head

[boostdelinquent]

If you plan to street tune then I'd buy this kit, a socketed and chipped ECU w/ basemap, and then pick up a wideband of your choosing.

http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...roducts_id=170

As for the second to last part, it looks like a downpipe, or at least the beginning of a downpipe that has the internal wastegate vent externally. Looking at the pic, I can't fingure out what logic they had for putting a flange on the dump tube though.

[WiKKeDV16]

Its recirculated back into the 3"dp..it just allows for the use of an external wg on a internally gated car..more accurate..and better for running higer boost..id run 1 that dumps to the atmosphere makes more power than 1 that is recirculated..

[bcjammerx]

I'm learning so much

[wed3k]

post a wtb ad, i can probably help you.

[Mugenlude19]

I would stick with the internal gate on a 14B/16G turbo. Being damn familiar with DSM's if you have a small grinder and some time I'd grind out and make smooth around the wastegate flapper. That is also the first thing you want to check condition wise to keep down the boost creep.

The 2G manifold has much bigger ports than the 1G even though the 1G DSM head flows more than the 7bolt head. If using a T25/14B/16G they will all bolt on to that manifold. The Jpipe location changes slightly for the 14B/16Gs.

[bagoon316]

if so familiar with dsm's and there boost creep issues, the best way to eliminate it entirely is to go external. the best thing to get in my opinion is the flange with the 2.5" downpipe hole, and w/g hole, and make your own d/p with external gate. this will eliminate all boost creep issues that happen before and after you grind at the flapper area. so much more boost control with external.

DSM 450's can be had for 50 bux, i would def highly recomend like stated a fmic for quality cooling.

dsm setups can be had for cheap. for ecu a chipped p06 will work just fine and those can be found for less than a 100. just would have to pay for tuning.

also that first flange is the wrong flange to convert dsm to T3, since the 14b/16g arent t25 flanged. you would want dsm to T3, if you want to go with a t3 flanged turbo.