I got a 91 ex outside my dads shop, imma check that header out tomorrow if you say the header on the 90 91 ex's are nice.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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What to look for in a "Header"
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Originally posted by Reignstarz View PostI got a 91 ex outside my dads shop, imma check that header out tomorrow if you say the header on the 90 91 ex's are nice.____
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Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Postgood build quality and good gaskets. Yeah those ebay headers are cheap, but so are the gaskets, which leak and cause you a BIG headache shortly after installing it. Companies like DC Sports employ the use of crush gaskets like OEM, so they seal perfect multiple times.
I took my DC header off at least 4-5 times throughout me owning it and not once did those crush rings leak exhaust gases. So that shows you it may be worth it to you to invest in a good quality header. I got my DC ceramic 4-2-1 new off ebay a couple years ago for 225 shipped. Never had one issue with it.
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Originally posted by lost_accord View PostEverything I've seen says the A6 & A1 (that OP has) share the SAME exhaust. The A4 exhaust is steel tube header.:
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Originally posted by ibr_adam09 View Posti don't understand why people get headers,
bigger "tubes" for the engine to exhale better ? gets you 5 extra hp
w/e you do , dont spend more than 80 bucks, youll find some ones that are like 400 bucks for nothing
just like intakes , just b/c its says AEM does not make it 200 bucks worthy, a 3' inc tube is just as good as a 10 dollar one
( filter matters )
try not to fall for that bullshit that "features " sumtin diffrent then the cheaper one ... all of it is the same
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Originally posted by Sick1CamF22EJ1 View Postughh, to a point, but you are way wrong my friend. No matter what less backpressure is better for an engine, once tuned for it. For the header if you get to see it in person and its a cheapo, look to see that the header tubes are welded up 100% flush and even with the flange, dont want any lips facing into the port to fuck the flow up as ive seen, ive got an f22 4-2-1 header came with my whole swap i paid $50 for. and its not all even at all. And your guy dude up there who said all CAI are the same..LOL hes clueless, he has no idea what hes speaking of. AEM CAI are alot better that some cheap huge 3inch piping nothing cai. its not all about just the size of the tube being big..lol velocity and other things come into roll. my AEM cai made helll of a lot better power band over my 3inch intake. peak hpmeans SHIT. so that 5 peak hp u get means nothing, its the broader range of power you gain that helps.
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Originally posted by Reignstarz View PostHi guys im new to this forum. Hopefully you will see more of me .
I have just a few questions, And I read most of the stickies so i'll try to stay away from the "WHERE DO YOU GET A NICE PART" question.
I'm looking to replace the header in my 1990 honda accord lx. I don't exactly know what to look for.
I saw Ceramic,Stainless Steel, Black powder coated(w/e that means).
What exactly do you look for in a nice header for give the best power output and performance.
My honda engine is f22a1(I believe) any advice Id appreciate it.
-Reign
Dont get ebay. Save your money and get a ractive. I am really happy with mine and it fit VERY well and has not sprouted a leak yet. And it was only 125 shipped. Dont get Megan either...generics are the same IMO.
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Originally posted by Reignstarz View PostDo you have any problems clearance wise with your dc header. I heard they are pretty low.
member's ride thread
93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
91 Accord SE 176k
97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents
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Originally posted by Shag Wagon View PostOk first off I hate to be a dick but I notice that you "beleive" you have an F22a1 but you are running around here giving wrong advice to people. I just wanted to point that out first off.
Dont get ebay. Save your money and get a ractive. I am really happy with mine and it fit VERY well and has not sprouted a leak yet. And it was only 125 shipped. Dont get Megan either...generics are the same IMO.
I have a 1990 honda accord lx, f22a1 and I have a 91 honda accord ex f22a4.
I'm not going to go ebay Im looking at a megan or possibly a dc header.
-Reign
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Originally posted by Zenzanon View PostAnd the AEM and other name brand ones cost that much because they actually spent time in R&D, as opposed to the knock off companies that just took a name brand one and basically copied it...thus skipping a rather expensive production step. So you can either give your money to a company that really does shit all for the scene as far as progression goes, or pay a company for spending time to make sure their product works as efficiently as possible.
A large portion of the cost of the brand name products is the CARB approval... which means nothing outside of California.
The only true performance header for the F22A is the one made by Bisimoto. It is expensive, but for NA performance, worth every penny (and then some... comparable headers for other Honda engines are far more expensive).
The other aftermarket headers are about the same in terms of design. 5hp is possible. Some are better than others, but not significantly so. If you don't need CARB approval, and you don't care about brand names, you don't need to spend a ton of money. A cheap header with some good gaskets will usually do well. Megan Racing makes a decent piece for the price (the gaskets suck, but the header itself is pretty solid)
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From what I have READ Bisimoto and RMF is where is at. An they are both high dollar as fuck. But if you want the best you gots to pay to play. Now Im not seting this in stone so dont jump my shit for giving input.
*Note* yes I know that RMF is for H seriesLast edited by flcb7; 04-21-2009, 08:56 PM.R.I.P Rex 10/10/97-08/06/09
There aren’t enough words in this world to say how much you will be missed. love you buddy!
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Does anyone know how much getting a custom header fabricated would cost? I have some design ideas, but I dont have access to any mandrel benders, plasma cutters or welders (not to mention I dont have any training using said items).
Edit : I was looking at the more inexpensive headers, the Megan racing one looks pretty well made, but I cant find the specs (tube size, collector size) and I cant find a picture of the actual one for the cb7, I keep finding generic pictures. Does anyone here have a megan racing header that can tell me the specs and perhaps a pic of the actual unit. Thanks.Last edited by keldore; 04-21-2009, 11:42 PM.1989 cressida: Polycog diesel ultracharged, high tension muffler bearings, Manestically spaced pivot bearings, High definition halogen fluid, Flourescently scored bio-fuel seperator, flux capacitor and a Sega Genesis hooked up to a 9" b/w tv via cable to antenna converter.
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Ok read all of that, and as usual lots of theoretical debate and big buck name dropping on a relatively isignificant part.....My ? or point would be, are you replacing the entire exhaust from head to tip? Then its probably a sound idea to spend some cash and get a decent exhaust where the entire set-up is made by one company. If you're just replacing rusted or damaged parts, then JY parts or even the ebay jobs will probably suit. I have a stainless ebay header and downpipe - got it from seller 'tuningpros' for $30 - the flange is heavy, the material and craftsmanship are really good. Its been on my car for over 2 years without a problem. However, I did use good gaskets and not the ones that came with it.Last edited by 9threeEX; 04-22-2009, 12:07 AM.93 EX Arcadia Coupe, 5spd, f22a6, strut bars, 2"drop, baer brakes, ingalls camber kit, tokicos w/ eibach, K&N, 205s / 16s
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