cb7 coupe camber...

[greenmachine9]

ok so i have a 92 coupe with skunk2 springs and kybgr2 shocks...the question is what camber do i need for the rear? i have adjustable ball joints on the front and its still on the negative side and it is shimmed out in the back...is there "control arms" for the rear? any input is GREATLY appreciated i am eating tires like crazy and ive had it aligned like 3 times in 10,000 miles...its lowered 2.5 in the front and 2.25 in the rear

[wed3k]

do you have a print out?

[greenmachine9]

do you have a print out?

print out of.....?

[simha1]

ok so i have a 92 coupe with skunk2 springs and kybgr2 shocks...the question is what camber do i need for the rear? i have adjustable ball joints on the front and its still on the negative side and it is shimmed out in the back...is there "control arms" for the rear? any input is GREATLY appreciated i am eating tires like crazy and ive had it aligned like 3 times in 10,000 miles...its lowered 2.5 in the front and 2.25 in the rear

do you have problems with the control arm hitting the fender? if not you just need to push the camber all the way out and fin a good alignment shop. one that specialize in lowered car.

[wed3k]

yu said you had it aligned...where's the data sheet?

[94Si]

To start off, I did this on a 95 accord ex 4dr lowered on Apexi WS coilovers. Use at your own risk. This is a fairly easy fix for your rear camber.
Here are the materials needed: 4 M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long bolts. Use atleast grade 8 if not higher. The grade 8s can be bought at advanced auto, but you have to ask for them. You will also need washers. I used smaller washers to fine tune it. The washers I used were SAE 3/8" (9,5 mm). I used 7 washers on each bolt, which fixed ~-2.15 and ~-2.06 on the rear. It took about 3 to take out a degree in camber. The stock bolts can take up to 3 on each bolt, I would not go any farther than that. Those are the new washers and the old small inadequate bolt.

Here goes:

1. Jack up the rear of your car and support with jack stands or two jacks. Make sure it is stable as the bolts my need a little persuasion.
2. Remove on wheel and you should see the bolts as pictured



4. Take them out and put the washers on the other side of the are against the body to push out the wheel. This will take two hands, one to hold the washers, and one to feed the bolt through.


5. Tighten the bolts back by hand pretty tight, replace the wheel, repeat on the other side, and then TAKE IT TO GET ALIGNED!!

Hope that helps everyone


Modified by jbkiksass69 at 9:06 PM 11/7/2005

At this time the pictures are not working in this post, if you scroll down to the post by TheMuffinMan he has posted new pictures from him doing this to his car.

TheMuffinMan's post with pictures

TouringAccord


Modified by TouringAccord at 10:14 AM 9/15/2008

Same Instructions as above, he was right on, here's some updated pictures. And some additional notes.

14mm socket (stock)
17mm socket (new)
ratchet (duh)
washers

The Parts:


The Culprits:


Bolts Out:


Comparison: (old = gold, new = black + 6 washers)


And Complete:


Difficulty Rating:
/




Modified by TheMuffinMan at 12:20 PM 9/14/2008

hth

[Losiracer2]

I bought a Progress camber block kit, and its doing its job fairly well. I've still got like 1 deg. of neg. camber but thats not bad for me being dropped about 2.25 inches all the way around.