thinking of going turbo for now

[h22sparkle]

Also, alot of stock boosted cars' aren't fast. MOst of the stock boosted cars are boosted because of the lack of power they make NA. Hell, most of the stock boosted cars make around the same amount of power as hondas make stock NA. And just like other cars, you try n push say an srt4 or wrx stocker too hard and they'll let go just like anything else. The supercharged 4bangers, i'm not even gonna go into cuz they're already limited on power

Well testing it to its limits an srt4 with the right amount of everything is good up until 500 and some chane but with 3 goin on 400 im happy. I just like the fact that its newer and more user friendly and take to mods really well unlike most cars.

[MyCord]

People need to stop saying 10-12psi is the f22a's bottom ends limit..that's false..10-12psi = limit when unproperly tuned or maintained..were past that now-a-days..pushing 15-20psi on stock bottom ends..regardless of their duration..15psi (as proven by a member here) can be reliable as he ran that setup for a few years before deciding to go crazy on his car and make it full show and drag..(turbo90accord)

I myself have pushed 18psi on stock bottom end f22a..the headgasket went..but not the bottom end..

Stock rods can hold close to 400hp..the pistons are what sucks..

Regardless good info besides that tad bit..

Most people on stock internals run anywhere from 6-10psi, some push a little more but it's pretty commonly agreed that 10-12 is starting to push the bottom end unless you can really tune well.

Thanks

[WiKKeDV16]

Sparkle you know imma bust your balls about what you just said..

"More user friendly and take to mods really well"

Who says (once boosted) the f22a doesn't? Hell any honda engine gains more power per psi..then a lot of auto manufactures out there..take off the tdo4 bagel off your srt4 and see how much power it makes in street trim..which I believe your compression isn't that much lower than a f22a..I think your 8:1..regardless..you'd make dogpiss for power

1.your head doesn't flow for shit
2.your intake manifold could be a lot fatter for a turbo car
3.your throttle body(yes I know you upgraded teehee) could be bigger..

The 555cc injectors are limiting..
The fact that the ecu retards insane amount of timing to keep the car from grenading..yeah..I guess you could say user friendly..or idiot proof?..not to mention how rich they run..I've tuned several(as you very well know sparky)..and they dip into the low 10s at times..if the ecm isn't piggy backed or a standalone installed..

The turbo manifold(if u wanna call it that) is restrictive as piss once you get into serious power levels due to its wierd ass manifold+turbine housing design

And your trannys suck penis..I've never seen so many tranny threads on srtforums.com unlike any other..lol

For those wonder I speak from experience..from working on them...so take my opinion for what you will..

There great cars..but have their flaws just like a cb7 would..pros and cons the same..

I can bet money thou..psi for psi..the accord would make more hp than the srt4..

Stock srts make 220whp at 13psi(16psi spike) most of the sohc guys with 14b/16gs are in the 220-250 range..

And that's at 10-12psi..not 13 with a 16psi spike..its all relative but it proves a point..I guess..w.e it is im trying to prove lol


(Love ya sparky)

P.s...POWER STEERING PUMPS SICK on that neon..definetly still a dodge in that sense..hahaa

[WiKKeDV16]

Thanks

Lol..you yourself just said.."its a pretty commonly agreed that 10-12psi is pushing the bottom end unless you know how to tune"..


Then anyone reading my post should make the assumption that I can tune somewhat? Or would that be oblivious?..I guess I should start adding the statement "TUNED REALLY WELL" to my posts...



Oh..P.S im not the greatest tuner out there..some clarification before someone starts a pissing contest about that..

Solid airfuel and conservative timing table goes a long way..its not astro physics...

[MyCord]

My post says that most people run anywhere from 6-12psi but the ones who go higher than that know how to tune really well.

You assumed I meant the block can only handle 12psi which is obviously not true. I'm not trying to argue I just don't like when people correct me when there is nothing to be corrected.

[WiKKeDV16]

My post says that most people run anywhere from 6-12psi but the ones who go higher than that know how to tune really well.

You assumed I meant the block can only handle 12psi which is obviously not true. I'm not trying to argue I just don't like when people correct me when there is nothing to be corrected.

I by no means am trying to correct you..

I just found your "thanks" as kind of letting me know that I forgot to establish how well it has to be "tuned" for it to handle higher than 10-12psi..were all aware they can handle more..

I clearly stated

"10-12psi limit when unproperly tuned or maintained"(in regards to the bottom end blowing)..so I found ur "thanks" ..and highlighting your statement redundant..and useless..

Either way..moving on..

[90accordex]

Regardless of how much boost the stock block can handle I do not want to run the risk of destroying the engine and until I can find a tuner that knows imports I am gonna hold off on the whole build. I want to dyno-tune the car for street driving and unless the closest place to me (Belgrade, Montana, which is a 2 hour drive for me) learns imports sometime soon, I am going to buy the parts slowly over time then when I know that I can get it tuned professionally I will start the build.


I am thinking of the DSM turbo build as a way to get off the ground and into the forced-induction side of Hondas. I have done a lot of searching and reading over the past few years and have learned a lot, but it would seem the best way (for me at least cause I'm a bit on the poor side) that the DSM route would be a good way to learn hands-on with turbos and what not. And also because DSM turbo parts are cheap and easy to find. A junkyard south of town here has about 5 talons and 3 eclipses that are wrecked with manis turbos and all the neccessary parts intact.

[keoni96826]

thanks for the replys sorry i havent been on in awhile but hopefully i get some good advice from your replys havent read them yet sorry.

[boostdelinquent]

If there aren't any local tuners who know how to tune imports very well, your best bet would be to start doing some reading on PGMFI.org and learn how to tune yourself. You can go here and buy everything you need to tune ECU's yourself.

http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...roducts_id=170

You'll also need a wideband 02, socket, chips, etc. To start it'd be pretty easy to have a basemap burnt for you based upon the parts you use for the build. I'm sure there would be someone else on here or PGMFI.org who'd have a map from a similar build to get you started as well. At least that's how I'd do it but I'm also one of those people who hates the idea of paying anyone to work on my car since all that leads to is my continued dependance on them for my cars performance.

EDIT: Oh and unless you're planning to make absurd numbers, you don't have to sleeve the H22/H23. Mahle has the gold series pistons which are coated and won't scape the cylinder walls to hell. With that said, it should save you a bit on your engine build VS 800-900 for a sleeved block. Then again you could also build the F22 block since it has ductile iron sleeves.

[starchland]

When I was looking into boost I was always under the impression the ringlands and the head were the first thing to shit

[evil_demon_01]

When I was looking into boost I was always under the impression the ringlands and the head were the first thing to shit

Ringland's Yes, head No.

Ringlands are damaged by detonation - Ie not correctly tuned
The stock block and pistons are only as good as the tuner, Nothing more nothing less.

[keoni96826]

wow thanks for all the info all of it really helps. got a few questions though like do i have to change my clutch? whats cheaper a afc or getting a chipped ecu and tuning it? or is it not as reliable to run a afc. cause this is my only car and i need to drive to work everyday but as you know im on a budget. thanks.

[wed3k]

can you swap in a std size forged piston whether it be from honda or aftermarket onto a stock rod and just keep the rest of it stock?

but i guess if you are going in that deep, you might as well pay the extra 300 and get forged H beam rods.

[boostdelinquent]

Your best bet for engine managment will be to socket and chip the ECU. An AFC will work for adding additional fuel however it doesn't have the capability to modify the timing maps as the boost increases which can lead to detonation. If you haven't listed it yet, I would also pick up some DSM 450 injectors so that you're not in a situation where you're running the stock injectors near their max duty cycle. Besides that, you can run the stock clutch for now and replace it when it goes, or you can go ahead and swap it before boost so you don't have to worry about it later. That's really a decision that depends on you.

[keoni96826]

well im most likely going to get a used turbo kit which i think is worth getting then a ebay kit. im trying to stay on a budget and reliable build but it hard to be reliable and cheap. and i my get a another upgraded clutch but i was just wondering how long my clutch will last with the kit on like 10psi and afew runs every few days? thanks for the help i dont know what id do without this site id probably would have a civic. not that civics are bad but i like to have something a little different.