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bisimoto camshaft

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    #16
    They shouldn't loosen. But as with anything, always recheck after driving for a bit (this goes for everything... even the lugnuts on your wheels!)

    The Stage 2 camshaft has too much lift to be safe with the stock springs. The springs can bind, or they can not be stiff enough... either way, you could end up with a piston hitting a valve, which could potentially destroy the entire motor.


    If the head is getting worked, then yes, I agree... get the full valvetrain and a more aggressive cam. Then get tuned. With a decent port and polish, a Bisimoto Stage 2 camshaft and valve springs, intake, header, exhaust, and an H23 intake manifold/throttle body, you could very easily make H22 power after a good tune.
    Replace whatever cheapie header you have there with a Bisimoto header, beef up the bottom end, increase compression... and it's likely to go beyond 200whp.






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      #17
      ah like-uh the way you tawlk, Deev. On my readings of the camshaft (sometimes it's hard to get 100% positive info), I came across a few posts talking about the cam breaking itself in, and rechecking the valves/springs/lash, etc for when the cam's breaking in, it could possibly loosen these up a little. Better safe than sorry.
      Last edited by Gotz Cb7; 02-23-2009, 10:02 AM.
      98' Mustang 3V Swap
      11' VW CC R36

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        #18
        Yeah, it's absolutely correct. You always need to check and readjust. "tighten the springs" was just a confusing wording. I knew what you meant, but others seemed confused (and here in the noobie forum, clarification is always best!)






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          #19
          Very understandable. If my damn car would stop having it's temper tantrums, I wanted to get this camshaft done and installed right after the meet in March. Right when I wanna upgrade something, a tire goes flat or something. I think it's a sign that it wants something else.
          98' Mustang 3V Swap
          11' VW CC R36

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            #20
            will the stage 2 camshaft and head still be streetable with emissions? and will the idle still be somewhat normal? if it helps its an h22 trans that tiger sent me on accident i payed for an f22 lol and they sent me an h22 with an lsd setup haha the trans should hold up right?

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              #21
              Originally posted by nauticaboi9486 View Post
              will the stage 2 camshaft and head still be streetable with emissions? and will the idle still be somewhat normal? if it helps its an h22 trans that tiger sent me on accident i payed for an f22 lol and they sent me an h22 with an lsd setup haha the trans should hold up right?
              You should be able to pass the emissions without a problem after you tune the ECU. You will probably need to set the idle a couple hundred rpm higher than stock to make it idle smoother with the stage2 cam. That's awesome that they sent you an H22 LSD tranny, it is a good tranny but gets annoying on the highway if you drive above 70mph IMO.



              Anyway, from what I understand, Bisi stage1 and Delta 260 give a similar gain. The Delta 260 is slightly more aggressive from what I understand (correct me if I am wrong).
              I am currently running the 260 cam. Thinking that it can't be much more aggressive than the F22A6 cam, I ran it on the stock fuel map for a few days Hooked up my wideband and the AFR was 19.0:1.
              I basically had to add TONS of fuel to the whole fuel map before I got it to a safe AFR. And after doing some pulls and watching my wideband, I had to add TONS more fuel above 3500 rpm to even get close to 13:1 afr.
              The car also pulls like a stock H22. I don't know, maybe I got a freak cam, but I will NEVER again run an aftermarket cam without tuning the ECU.

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                #22
                Wow, it did that with a 260? People run 272s with the stock ECU! I wonder what the AFR is with that...

                Even if damage wasn't a risk (and with an AFR like that, it IS), you won't see nearly as much of a gain from a camshaft without a proper tune.

                That's the only problem with tuning an engine. Once you do the simple bolt-on stuff, everything else is so closely interlocked... The cam needs a tune, and should have valve springs. If you're going to go that far, you should just get a valve job and a port and polish. If you're pulling the head for all that, you should beef up the bottom end so it has higher compression and can rev higher more safely.

                And then you have to wonder if doing all this beefing up is worth the NA mods just to make 250whp or so (which is doable, but only after a lot of work with an NA F22A) and that with all that building, you could make 600hp with a turbo.

                Then you'll wonder why you bothered doing it to a car that puts power through the front wheels.






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                  #23
                  you guys are fucking great i love all the imput on this website, i feel totally confident with my new car. deevergote you are the man, now i know when i ask something i know who to turn to. later guys

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by deevergote. View Post
                    Wow, it did that with a 260? People run 272s with the stock ECU! I wonder what the AFR is with that...
                    Yea, it was pretty drastic.

                    This is the base F22A fuel map I used (this isn't the actual stock fuel map; it has some extra fuel)



                    And this is my street tuned fuel map. ~14.5 idle; ~13.8:1 partial throttle; ~12.8:1 wide open throttle. The fuel offset is also set to 50 on this map.

                    The difference is huge, as you can see


                    It loves all the fuel it is getting now. Partial throttle is a bit rich but I do run it in closed loop, so it is 14.7:1 anyway.
                    I am not sure if I did something wrong, but I looked at a few other F22A basemaps and they all looked similar to the one I used as my starting point.

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                      #25
                      Im glad I saw this thread. I was thinking about a cam, but staying with my pt6 ecu. I'll just save a year or two, so I can do it all the right way.
                      My inferiority complex isn't as good as yours.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        that is insane how lean it was... this makes me question myself if i ran the cam on the stock ecu for awhile or tuned it... i just cant believe how lean it was...

                        Superior Tuning Solutions
                        Dedspool MFG
                        1995 Civic Coupe : A/M F swap
                        LOCK.IT.UP

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                          #27
                          does anyone have dyno charts of the 272 regrind and bisi level 2 for cross comparison?

                          Superior Tuning Solutions
                          Dedspool MFG
                          1995 Civic Coupe : A/M F swap
                          LOCK.IT.UP

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by rexload View Post
                            Yea, it was pretty drastic.

                            This is the base F22A fuel map I used (this isn't the actual stock fuel map; it has some extra fuel)



                            And this is my street tuned fuel map. ~14.5 idle; ~13.8:1 partial throttle; ~12.8:1 wide open throttle. The fuel offset is also set to 50 on this map.

                            The difference is huge, as you can see


                            It loves all the fuel it is getting now. Partial throttle is a bit rich but I do run it in closed loop, so it is 14.7:1 anyway.
                            I am not sure if I did something wrong, but I looked at a few other F22A basemaps and they all looked similar to the one I used as my starting point.
                            Go back to the f22 base fuel map and then play with the injector offset until you get it to idle where you want it to. If that doesn't work(meaning you maxed out on either end), select the entire map and add a little bit of fuel until it idles where you want it to.

                            Originally posted by SleeperSEDAN View Post
                            does anyone have dyno charts of the 272 regrind and bisi level 2 for cross comparison?
                            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...highlight=dyno
                            Last edited by d112crzy; 02-26-2009, 05:40 AM.

                            CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by SleeperSEDAN View Post
                              that is insane how lean it was... this makes me question myself if i ran the cam on the stock ecu for awhile or tuned it... i just cant believe how lean it was...
                              Yea, I am starting to think that maybe there is something else wrong with my setup. I cannot think of anything though... I am running known-good injectors and there shouldn't be anything else wrong with the rest of my fuel system because I ran another motor just fine on someone else's basemap.

                              Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                              Go back to the f22 base fuel map and then play with the injector offset until you get it to idle where you want it to. If that doesn't work(meaning you maxed out on either end), select the entire map and add a little bit of fuel until it idles where you want it to.
                              Yea, that is basically what I did. I changed the injector offset to 50, then selected the entire map and kept adding fuel until it was idling around 14.0:1. Then I started driving and looking at the Freelog tables. I had to keep adding fuel at higher rpm to get it to 12.8:1 at WOT. So when my AFR was rich enough, I ended up with the map that I posted above

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                                #30
                                No, that's not what you did. You cannot just set it to 50 and call it good. You need to play with that offset until you get it to idle properly. It's the reason as to why you were idling to lean. Set it to 90 and I bet you'll idle just fine with the first map fuel tables.

                                You're pushing the duty cycle of the injectors because you don't have the initial offsets set correctly.

                                CrzyTuning now offering port services

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