newb h22a boosting?

[geracarreon]

i am a complete newb at boosting. i own a h22a cb7 , just got me a turbo kit but have a couple of conserns i was hoping i could get help here. for one thing i want to know how much boost i can run safely with out blowing my motor, to daily drive it and yet drive it hard. but still last long. my motor is h22a with h22a transmission, stock other than obx stage 2 cams , skunk 2 intake manifold, stake 2 flywheel and clutch masters clutch, cam gears, vafc, msd wires and such.

the turbo kit i got includes rc injectors, str fuel rail, stainless oil lines/fitting, tapped oil pan, Top mount manifold, 50 trim garrett turbo MINIMAL shaft play, tial wastegate, greddy type-s bov, front mount intercooler w/2-1/4" piping, custom made downpipe, and a greddy profec boost controller


how much boost can i run safely, should i even do it? i need feed back, please help me out.

[myk]

Im not a boost guru, but I wouldnt just slap on a turbo kit to a motor that already has N/A mods like cams.

Did you do all the mods?
How many miles are on the motor since its last rebuild?
Is it healthy?
Do you have the stock cams?

You'd probably want some kind of aftermarket engine management, vafc are IMO

Im sure a boost guru will chime in, and you'll get your fair share of boost haters and such.

[ali954]

well i know they usually dont boost h22s because the material of the cylinder walls is weak i forget what it is. and i think its also because its already a high compression motor.

[geracarreon]

Im not a boost guru, but I wouldnt just slap on a turbo kit to a motor that already has N/A mods like cams.

Did you do all the mods?
How many miles are on the motor since its last rebuild?
Is it healthy?
Do you have the stock cams?

You'd probably want some kind of aftermarket engine management, vafc are IMO

Im sure a boost guru will chime in, and you'll get your fair share of boost haters and such.

well the vafc is just pluged in, not tunning done, the motor is in good condition 90k miles on it, i do have the stock cams. i keep hearing in forums that 5 or 6 psi is ok on stock sleeves but trying to get multiple opinions.

[geracarreon]

well i know they usually dont boost h22s because the material of the cylinder walls is weak i forget what it is. and i think its also because its already a high compression motor.

well i keep reading that 5 or 6 psi is ok for stock sleeves. the reason u hear they are weak is because the material they are made of frm which cannot mix with forged pistons. only other frm friendly pistons . i was thinking of buying mahle pistons gold series for non sleeved motors and frm friendly. im doing what i can i research, trying to get all the feedback i can. but stock i read 5 or 6 psi i ok. not sure still.

[deevergote]

well i know they usually dont boost h22s because the material of the cylinder walls is weak i forget what it is. and i think its also because its already a high compression motor.

FRM. Fiber Reinforced Metal.
They are not weak. The sleeves are quite strong. The problem is that many aftermarket forged pistons are not compatible with the FRM sleeves. Normal forged pistons will eat the sleeves. The internals of the H22A are not made to handle boost. They are fairly brittle, and the tolerances are tight (so the extra heat produced by turbo can cause them to expand). Yes, a stock H22A can handle 5-6psi safely... if it is tuned VERY well, and the motor is healthy from the start. I wouldn't advise it, especially for a beginner on an already modified motor... but it can be done...

The motor already has OBX Stage 2 cams. Those are not good for boost. Too much overlap. You're going to be blowing your air/fuel charge right out the exhaust valves. High overlap NA cams on a turbo motor are like having a major leak in your charge pipes.

Additionally, NOBODY puts Stage 2 cams of any type in a motor without flogging it. That motor has to have been driven hard. Boosting it might not be all that wise. Also, the fact that the cams are OBX... which are cheapie copycat cams that do not have a very good reputation in H22s, whoever you bought the motor from obviously takes shortcuts. I wonder if he even replaced the valve springs, or if those wild cams are pushing the limits of the stock springs...



Before you even tough the motor, find yourself a good tuner. As their advice. If you can't find someone that is confident that they can tune a turbo H22, don't risk it. DO NOT tune it with a VAFC!

And please... remove those cams!

[fatboy1185]

how much boost can i run safely, should i even do it? i need feed back, please help me out.

Since this is your actual question.....Forget about "boost" and think in terms of horse power. If your motor is healthy, you should be able to make around 350-400, on a good tune of course. Should you do it? That is up to you. Things go wrong, so make sure you have a back up vehicle and a back up pile of cash, cuz something WILL break sooner or later.

[geracarreon]

FRM. Fiber Reinforced Metal.
They are not weak. The sleeves are quite strong. The problem is that many aftermarket forged pistons are not compatible with the FRM sleeves. Normal forged pistons will eat the sleeves. The internals of the H22A are not made to handle boost. They are fairly brittle, and the tolerances are tight (so the extra heat produced by turbo can cause them to expand). Yes, a stock H22A can handle 5-6psi safely... if it is tuned VERY well, and the motor is healthy from the start. I wouldn't advise it, especially for a beginner on an already modified motor... but it can be done...

The motor already has OBX Stage 2 cams. Those are not good for boost. Too much overlap. You're going to be blowing your air/fuel charge right out the exhaust valves. High overlap NA cams on a turbo motor are like having a major leak in your charge pipes.

Additionally, NOBODY puts Stage 2 cams of any type in a motor without flogging it. That motor has to have been driven hard. Boosting it might not be all that wise. Also, the fact that the cams are OBX... which are cheapie copycat cams that do not have a very good reputation in H22s, whoever you bought the motor from obviously takes shortcuts. I wonder if he even replaced the valve springs, or if those wild cams are pushing the limits of the stock springs...



Before you even tough the motor, find yourself a good tuner. As their advice. If you can't find someone that is confident that they can tune a turbo H22, don't risk it. DO NOT tune it with a VAFC!

And please... remove those cams!

well the motor is in good condition, and i checked the head and the cams are ok, they havent fucked my head up any, my rockers are still good.( guess im one of the lucky who got a good part of obx). guess its a good thing the guy i bought the motor form threw in the stock cams.

probably just buy turbo cams, mahle gold series pistons, and block guard to go with that turbo kit.

my main issue is that in oklahoma city there are no places with good dyno tuning records. sad. there is abel racing and alternative motorsports. havent heard much on alternative but all bad for abel. i hear theres good tuning 100 miles from here though. sad

[deevergote]

Don't get a block guard. They warp cylinder walls.

Everything else is a good idea, though.


If you're really serious about doing this, I would find a good tuner, even if it is 100 miles away, and make it work. $1000 to get your car towed to the tuner and then tuned properly will be much better (and cheaper in the end) than blowing up the motor and starting again... especially if you're putting in expensive internals.