Rotor/Hub removal.

[Slice One]

Ok, so I found cross drilled and slotted rotors for cheap. I want to put them on, not only for the preformance, but i litterally need new rotors mine are baddly pitted.

the issue is, I was told that a shop would press off the old rotor and the new one back on for 40 bucks.....Not so, I was told at 3 different shops, its 3.4 hour minamum, equaling like 210 bucks on going labor charges.

WTF!!!! 210 bucks and im paying 60 for both rotors......im in the wrong business.

There has to be a way to get the hub and the rotor sperated without having to get the shop to press it off and on. Slide hammer? anyone that has done this before please let me know, my brakes are grinding from the pitting so i need this done ASAP.

FYI im doing all work my self.

[phantomcow2]

I may be mistaken, but I recall seeing a DIY on how to do this yourself. I'm 90% certain it was on this site. Search the DIY section

[Slice One]

No your not mistaken, Aside from the grammar errors, both the DIY's i seen are subpar to the effect that they have 0 pictures, and really do not explain in great detail the hardest part of doing the process. PRESSING THE HUB CLEAR OF THE ROTOR.

I'm not going to break more then I'm willing to replace, and if my hub is perfectly fine i want it to stay that way, I do not want to buy new bearings.

IF I remove the 4 star bolts on the back side of the hub, the rotor will just seperate from the hub? or will the hub just come off of the steering knuckle? and the rotor and hub will still need to be pressed apart? Please someone, without telling me to search, answer this question. Please.

[Slice One]

So i found a DIY with pics,



^^^^here we have the step i have issue with,

You thread those bolts in, then hammer them? wont this strip the threading on the knuckle and on the bolts? if there is no threading, threw the knuckle and only on the bearing hub, this would make sense.

Anybody?


I feel disliked .....

[Professor]

your best bet is to fork over 20 bucks. And just get a helms, chitlons, haynes or w.e. manual. they will give you a step by step procedure with pictures. O and FYI i wouldnt put those crossed drilled and slotted rotors, especially if they are no name brand, they are prone to cracking, rusting. and if you really think about they reduce the surface area on which the pad meets. A Blank rotor and good set a pads or big brake upgrade is the way to go imo if you need the extra stopping power.

[Slice One]

i know how its done, im just trying to figure out how to remove the hub from the knuckle they are pressed on. in the honda service manual it says simply, press off hub, press on new hub. so obviously they are speaking of a mechanical press, which i dont have.

Ill figure it out. if i have to i will replace everything, i need my brakes,

[91F22A1]

or another opton is goin with the ROH conversion. this is what i plan on doin as soon as the funds come available.

[MyCord]

I have the same problem, although a honda dealership quoted me 120$.. maybe this would help you. http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=670825

[jeramey513]

I recently had to replace the wheel bearings in my 93 accord and it was tuff to seperate the hub and rotor. I had to beat them off but i also had a new set of rotorsand the wheel bearing was just as hard to get out of the hub so i dont beleive you will have any problems with the wheel bearings going bad like i said i dont beleive.

[CarbonEuroR]

It's easier to take the whole steering knuckle off first then unscrew the 4 star bolts on the back holding on the bearing, press out the bearing with a large socket and vice. Unbolt the rotor from the mounting plate, then the fun part, i used two hammers on oppisite sides of the edge, where the mounting plate and bearing meet, and slightly tapped them in under with a sludge. After lifting the bearing up and off of the mounting plate 1/4 to 1/2 inch, get a hub bearing puller from a tool store and pull the bearing off the rest of the way with that. Press on the new bearing with a vice and your all good to start bolting it back together! Alot of ride problem, shacking and balancing is produced from the bearing, just replaced all 4 of mine!

[CarbonEuroR]

Also if you don't have 6" or bigger vice, I've seen others do it with a few blocks of wood, a couple of lage sockets (like the size of your spindle nuts) and a sludge hammer. It's not pretty or recomended but if it's what gets the job done. I also have a couple of pics from my adventures, if they could help.

[dano28]

From what I see in the free manual, you do not need to press the bearing out of the hub in order to get the rotor off. The manual wants you to remove the steering knuckle. Remove the Rotor/Bearing/Hub from the knuckle by taking out the 4 bolts from the backside. You then simply remove the 4 bolts from the front side to remove the rotor from the Hub/Bearing assembly. No need to press the Bearing from the Hub at all. Unless I'm looking at the wrong manual but it says CB7.

[The G-Man]

So i found a DIY with pics,



You thread those bolts in, then hammer them? wont this strip the threading on the knuckle and on the bolts? if there is no threading, threw the knuckle and only on the bearing hub, this would make sense.

Anybody?


I feel disliked .....

There are not threads on the knuckle, only the bearing.

[CarbonEuroR]

From what I see in the free manual, you do not need to press the bearing out of the hub in order to get the rotor off. The manual wants you to remove the steering knuckle. Remove the Rotor/Bearing/Hub from the knuckle by taking out the 4 bolts from the backside. You then simply remove the 4 bolts from the front side to remove the rotor from the Hub/Bearing assembly. No need to press the Bearing from the Hub at all. Unless I'm looking at the wrong manual but it says CB7.

The bearing does need to be pressed from the knuckle, it not extremly hard but still difficult without a press.

[dano28]

He's only wanting to change the rotors. The manual clearly shows that the 4 bolts accessed from the front of the Rotor/Bearing/Hub will separate the Rotor from the Bearing/Hub.

I'm looking at to manual for CB1,CB3,CB7 1989-1991 section 12, page 19.