h23 im swap now code 43

[close2classic]

After I did the swap, I noticed when I start the car cold, it tries to idle normal, stumbles, then surges to warm up. After its warm the idle lingers high around 1300 rpm then settles down to 900. There is no erratic idle and no vacuum leaks. I can't lower the idle anymore.

It gave me an egr code at first, I put a fresh gasket on and the code went away. Now I'm stuck with a code 43 (the vague fuel system/ o2 sensor code). I put gas treatment and high octane fuel in the tank hoping its the o2 sensor. Im using the known good fuel pressure regulator and injectors (not leaking). I bled the coolant. Maybe it's the fast idle valve?

I am also using the h23 thermostat (problem?)

[close2classic]

could this be a tps sensor problem for the idle issue also?

[wed3k]

why dont you check your TPS so that you can eliminate it from the issue. you can also do resistance checks with the o2 sensor.

[ExplodingCake]

Code 43 is likely a running rich issue. Like wed3k said , check the resistance of the o2 sensor.

[wed3k]

everything on this car that is electrical other than the ABS systems can be checked via multimeter. pain in the ass, but it is cheaper than replacing items.

[close2classic]

thx for the replies

About the tps sensor, I bench checked it before and after I put it on the throttle body. The voltage was low and close around .35 I think, Could the slotted position adjustment of the sensor cause the problem?

[wed3k]

thx for the replies

About the tps sensor, I bench checked it before and after I put it on the throttle body. The voltage was low and close around .35 I think, Could the slotted position adjustment of the sensor cause the problem?

well, it is suppsoed to be checked when it is installed.

.50v closed to 5.00 open?

[close2classic]

now that Im racking my brain, I prolly just banged the o2 sensor when I was installing the support bracket, I m gonna check it asap.

Im gonna switch out a known good iacv and tighten the crap out of fitv and go from there.

[wed3k]

everything on this car that is electrical other than the ABS systems can be checked via multimeter. pain in the ass, but it is cheaper than replacing items.

guess that statement didnt mean much.

[close2classic]

hey mr. sarcasm, about my o2 sensor (which was replaced 4k miles ago), its all hacked up because its just a big extension cord wrapped in electrical tape because of the lx to ex pipe swap. its gonna be a pain taking the multimeter to that although it possible.

About the iacv, that also checked good before I put it on (no code either) Its still possible that that is to blame right?

[wed3k]

hey mr. sarcasm, about my o2 sensor (which was replaced 4k miles ago), its all hacked up because its just a big extension cord wrapped in electrical tape because of the lx to ex pipe swap. its gonna be a pain taking the multimeter to that although it possible.

About the iacv, that also checked good before I put it on (no code either) Its still possible that that is to blame right?

so if you checked it, what was the resistance values on the IACV?

[Nats93]

wow...seems like it can be a pain in the butt after engine swap. I've read alot and many have problems....hmmm

[close2classic]

Well the code 43 went away for now. I removed the fuel pressure regulator and replaced it with the prelude h23 fpr, freakin weird especially because that accord fpr was the one I was using before the swap, problem free.

Thanks for your help though guys

[close2classic]

Code 43 came back, LESSON LEARNED, TPS sensor was out of adjustment, it read 1200 ohms at closed throttle, its supposed to be under 1000 ohms. So the ecu was dumping fuel, fouling the o2 the sensor. I hope this helps anyone else.

I adjusted the tps and the code 43 went away.

[QUICKwitit]

good stuff I will keep that in mind as well I need to check mine