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Caliper gripping brake disc and won't let go!!!

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    #1

    Caliper gripping brake disc and won't let go!!!

    If anyone can help me with this, I'd appreciate the help tonight. Reason being I'm trying to just finish this job so that I can be done once and for all. I've had my car in my friend's garage for 3 weeks now and he is starting to get a little pissed.

    Ok so the problem is this: I just finished replacing both upper control arms, tie rod ends, and lower ball joints. I've put everything back together. When I put the calipers back on, the brake pads BARELY slid onto their respective sides of the brake disc. Now, the rotor / disc wont turn freely. How do I get the caliper to back off to the right point? Note: I did NOT remove the brake line at any time during this. I suspended the calipers on wire while I worked so as to not put stress on the brake line. Therefore, I shouldn't have to bleed the brakes, right?

    Again, if someone could please respond as soon as possible, I'd be really grateful! Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by BBuncky2; 11-14-2008, 10:45 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Did you happen to touch the brake pedal in the process?
    No you won't have to bleed the brakes if you diddnt remove the calipers.
    Sometimes they are tighter to put back on if there was residual pressure in the lines before you took them off.

    Make sure the brakes work properly, then go for a quick drive down the road (5 minutes max) come back home, jack it up and see weather the wheels rotate freely.
    If they do, as I said it's probally just residual pressure in the lines, If not then you need to look into it further


    Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

    My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

    A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

    If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

    Comment

      #3
      try pushing the brake piston back into the bore with a C-clamp. later.
      Avoiding dirt at all costs

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by TypeG View Post
        try pushing the brake piston back into the bore with a C-clamp. later.
        x2
        1993 Accord LX - Sold
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        92 Accord EX Sedan - SOLD
        2000 Accord Coupe - Traded-In
        2003 Accord V6 6spd Coupe - Sold
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        2013 Chevy Traverse LTZ - Kid hauler
        2003 Acura Tl 3.2 - Daily Commuter

        Comment

          #5
          Yeah I just put the tires back on. I'm going to see what happens when i turn the car on. Maybe they'll back off on their own if I press the brake pedal a few times?

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by BBuncky2 View Post
            Yeah I just put the tires back on. I'm going to see what happens when i turn the car on. Maybe they'll back off on their own if I press the brake pedal a few times?
            they are floating style so they wont go back unless it is driven.
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by wed3k View Post
              they are floating style so they wont go back unless it is driven.
              Unless the car is driven, or unless the caliper is driven back??

              Also, the damn pictures in the haynes and chiltons dont really show how to compress the piston. I have another question: why is it called compressing something when we want to EXPAND the caliper to allow more room in-between the pads and the disc?

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by BBuncky2 View Post
                Unless the car is driven, or unless the caliper is driven back??

                Also, the damn pictures in the haynes and chiltons dont really show how to compress the piston. I have another question: why is it called compressing something when we want to EXPAND the caliper to allow more room in-between the pads and the disc?
                the rotor forces the floating side of the caliper back.
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Drive it around the block and then check it.
                  Gary A.K.A. Carter
                  [sig killed by photobucket]

                  Comment

                    #10
                    correct me if im wrong: but i believe that to compress the piston inward, there is a cross (+ or X) that you need to turn either clockwise or counter clockwise and it has to be aligned up to a certain angle (the cross). Then slip them on and drive around a bit, pump the brakes, pull e-brake a few times, and bleeding your system wouldnt hurt either.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Push your piston back in. using a c-clamp or a hammer and a piece of wood, or your hands.

                      Too lazy to read the posts, sorry if you already tried this.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by alkoholikwun View Post
                        correct me if im wrong: but i believe that to compress the piston inward, there is a cross (+ or X) that you need to turn either clockwise or counter clockwise and it has to be aligned up to a certain angle (the cross). Then slip them on and drive around a bit, pump the brakes, pull e-brake a few times, and bleeding your system wouldnt hurt either.
                        tie rod ends would indicate the front of the vehicle and the twist style pistons would only be for the rear even if he is equipped with rear disc.
                        I <3 G60.

                        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          make sure you didn't twist the brake line to the caliper, it's pretty easy to do. that itself will cause the brakes to that. bad calipers isn't uncommon, especially rear.

                          good luck
                          96 Accord SiR driveline installed. CF2 donar

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by The G-Man View Post
                            Drive it around the block and then check it.
                            The G-Man is right...



                            (I don't know, I just wanted to say that. I'm checking it in a little bit haha)

                            Comment

                              #15
                              my does the same after i change my rear rotor. After driving it it start to free up and work normally.

                              Take it for a slow spin around the block and use the brakes

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