When do you need to replace ball joints?

[ATLaccord]

I'm doing axles and brakes right now and I wonder about the ball joints. I did the "wiggle" test outlined here: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=119466. It seems the lower and upper ball joints are still good, even though the upper boots are split. There is a bit of play on the tie rod bj on the right hand side.

I cash strapped right now, so I'd rather hold off on replacing them right now...


Is it OK to drive on these ball joints for a little longer?

[lucid]

There is no way to tell how bad they are without feeling the play in the part.
New ball joints have resistance and smoothness to them when you move them around by hand.
A bad ball joint will feel really loose after you separate it from the hub or arm it goes into.

Tie rods are steering, so is it OK to drive with loose steering?
It depends how bad and it's not a great idea.

Outer tie rods are fairly cheap and easy to install.
Just mark or count the rotations when you remove the old part and put the new one back in the exact same spot.

You can probably get the boots separately for the other ball joints.

[benji]

On the tierod end, is there play in the end itself? or are you just feeling the slop in the steering system? There should be a little play there. You should reach in and hold the tie rod and wiggle, paying attention for play in the joint, and then reach way in and check the inner tie rod (that goes onto the rack).

[bobbycos]

the ball joints aren't that expensive AND since you have to disconnect them to remove the axles just do them !

look for the other thread about ball joints and you will see a pic of blizzard335's car after he broke a ball joint, SAFETY FIRST !!

and since you're cash strapped can you borrow a few dollars from someone

they range in price from $10 to $30 each depending on the brand

[alb_accord]

well for the lower ball joint. put the wheel assembly one and tighten the lower ball joint. put a craw bar between the lower control arm and the wheel assembly. try to wiggle it up and down. if there is play then you need ball joint.

but as everyone said. since you have everything apart just replace them with either honda oem or moog<<<<<< this last one everyone seems to have good experience with.....

[deevergote]

OEM Honda Ball Joints are only about $25 each... not exactly a bank breaker.

Just replace them. $25 ball joints are a LOT cheaper than an accident... and an accident is almost certain with a failed ball joint! The joints are 14-19 years old... it's time. The uppers with the torn boots especially need to be replaced. Torn boots mean the grease is leaking out, and dirt is getting in. A dry, dirty joint will fail. To do the uppers, you have to do the whole control arm. Check out www.tasauto.com for those parts at good prices.

[Otto]

The lower ball joints are cheap, and to replace them, you'd have to rip everything back out again. I'd say if they're original or several years old, then do 'em if you're up to it.
On the other hand, doing the tie-rods or upper control arm/joints is fairly easy and you only have to remove the wheel to get at them, plus they cost quite a bit more. So you could easily do them later. My 2 cents

[CB7Jay1]

I just did my upper/lower/tie rod on the driver side last night and it took me 23 mins!

Tie rod $23
Lower $24
Upper Control arm/BJ $67

Its easy work, and cheap. Better to be safe.I love hitting bumps now lol

[accordgris]

I just did my upper/lower/tie rod on the driver side last night and it took me 23 mins!

Tie rod $23
Lower $24
Upper Control arm/BJ $67

Its easy work, and cheap. Better to be safe.I love hitting bumps now lol

wow that's whas fast like hell .... just taking out my tools it take me that time

be sure that there is not grease leak comming out the boot axle ... your car will be ok for a couples of years now nice job

[CB7Jay1]

wow that's whas fast like hell .... just taking out my tools it take me that time

be sure that there is not grease leak comming out the boot axle ... your car will be ok for a couples of years now nice job

For real, i love my pry-fork i think its called, air tools are my best friend, and im a clean freak so my tools are spotless and organized. It helps that ive done all of this about six times now but yea nice and soilid, im doing the whole pass.side next thurs, see if i can beat my time lol, ill try to video tape it.I wanted to get this done, but i had 40 mins to do it, b/c i was taking my GF father and mother out to eat, so yea 23 min job, 5min beat run to the house, 15min shower...it was like i was workin in a pit crew.

[evil_demon_01]

Yep, Since the boots are split change them.
Once the boots split, dirt gets in. Once dirt is in there it mixes with the grease and acts like grinding paste, so you can imagine how much faster it makes the joints wear.

In the long run they are cheap insurance for a safe ride, Plus knowing the fact that you shouldn't have to replace them for at least another 5-10 years (depending on road/climate conditions)

Also a point I forgot to mention the "Basic Suspension Check" thread, Is that once you replace the joints RECHECK for play - If play still exists, there is still a problem somewhere, fix it before you go racing down the road

[deevergote]

You CAN just replace the boots. Energy Suspension makes boot replacements. This is only recommended if you tear an otherwise good boot acidentally. It's not for boots that were torn and driven that way.

CB7Jay1, you did the lower ball joints, outer tie rods, and upper ball joints in 23 minutes? Holy crap! I couldn't do the uppers in that time, let alone the lowers (which take a while!) How?!? I'm impressed!

[wed3k]

You CAN just replace the boots. Energy Suspension makes boot replacements. This is only recommended if you tear an otherwise good boot acidentally. It's not for boots that were torn and driven that way.

CB7Jay1, you did the lower ball joints, outer tie rods, and upper ball joints in 23 minutes? Holy crap! I couldn't do the uppers in that time, let alone the lowers (which take a while!) How?!? I'm impressed!

pneumatic tools works wonders.

[ATLaccord]

Thanks for all your comments. I had to do some other stuff...I guess I just do everything at the same time.

BTW: How do you get the lower balljoints out and the new ones in? The official Honda manual shows a special tool...

[benji]

Thanks for all your comments. I had to do some other stuff...I guess I just do everything at the same time.

BTW: How do you get the lower balljoints out and the new ones in? The official Honda manual shows a special tool...

Pickle fork from your local parts store. Sometimes called crows foot as well. Basically looks like the claw part of a claw hammer, but is much bigger and will go around the bolt part of the balljoint. You put that tool between the lip of the balljoint and whichever piece of suspension you are working on, and then take a hammer to the end it. A few whacks should separate it out pretty fast.

You can try hitting the end of the ball joint from below, but that doesn't work too well a lot of the time.