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Lowered my 92 coupe

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    #1

    Lowered my 92 coupe

    Hey all,

    I rairly ask many questions about how to do things to my car. However this has been largely due to most honda forums being a bunch of civic owners. So, after having my car three years and not finding this site until yesterday. I've literally rebuilt my front end 3 times.

    Last week I installed a 2" front drop and 1.5" rear. Tokico HP struts with JDM spring set. A full Energy Suspension bushing kit. Ingalls pivot type camber kit in front and a bent arm camber in the rear. Plus all three strut bars (Megan).

    This site has a tread already running on the issue I'm having. So, I learned that my choices are Either grind off a bunch of my upper arm or convert to the ball joint type camber kit. This is a trade off because then instead of my arm edge hitting. I'll get the adjustor nut hitting.

    This brings me to the questions I have. How much of this arm can I shave off without weakening the arm? OR If I convert to the ball joint kit can the area being hammered out in that thread just be cut out to allow the bolt to pass through.. Then build a small domed cup to weld or JB weld over the hole?

    27 posts to go.
    Tags: None
    #2
    i have a ingalls adjustable ball joint camber kit. It does bang if i go into deep pot holes but driving around the city i cant feel it. I love my stance so i dont want to bring the car up higher so i might go back to stock arms and keep my neg camber or i might try to cut part of the frame like you said.

    i had a 2inch drop at first and my car didnt bang at all. so maybe theres something else. have u checked the bushing that holds the strut fork? then they are bad the car sits lower.

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      #3
      As I said I used the pivot point camber kit. The issues with this kit are the now extended upper arm hits the bottom of the strut tower when the camber is set correctly. This means until I grind off the part of the arm that hits I can't get the camber set. I need to know how much arm I need to leave to keep structural integrity? Or is the ball joint kit a better choice?

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        #4
        Bump, Need to put my post back in front.

        After replying to 31 posts to get out of noob status. My question has lost it's page 1 status. I should have answered questions before asking my question I guess. But people who posted a week ago now have m advice and my question has moved off the page as new.

        Also sorry to anyone else who posted today. It likely did the same thing to you as well.

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          #5
          since you are lowered 2 inches i say switch to a balljoint camber kit. My arm doesnt it the edge it hit inside because im too low. Im probably 3inches lower than stock in the front.

          Comment

            #6
            Wow, 3 inches!

            I just returned from the shop. I ground off a small chunk of the drivers side arm, and a fairly large chunk off the pasenger side. I discovered the arms are not the same either. The drivers side is near perfect on the camber, However the passenger sides arm has a lot more extra metal beyond the ball joint. Because of this the alignment shop set this side with a lot of negative camber to make it clear.. almost. They didn't even try to set the toe, So I aimed the car staight and found the drivers side wheel was near perfect and the passenger side was WAY toe out. So I adjusted that side to look straight and drove home. Far better but still bad camber. Tomorrow I'll grind a little more off and try to set the camber by eye. If all clears OK I'll take it to a differant shop. If not I'll convert to the ball joint.

            Thanks for your input

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              #7
              OK, Yesterday morning I went to work really early to do some more.

              I ground off a good 1/2 inch of the passenger side arm after breaking the upper joint loose. Then I was able to move the arm up through the clearance area and see where to take more off. I used the knuckle and ball joint nut to hold it while I grinded away. Then could loosen and check clearances. I got the camber near perfect on that side and adjusted the Drivers side toe in to straighten the steering wheel. I still need to remove a touch more I think, but much MUCH better. Once I get this all working correctly with no clearance issues I'll take it to another alignment shop.

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