Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Drifting Left / Right Within Lane On Highway! Scary!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by BBuncky2 View Post
    Ok guys here's another issue: my car, at highway speeds, will slightly drift from left to right (as if a strong wind is blowing) when I am simply holding the wheel straight. This freaks me out and worries me that something is seriously wrong. Would not getting an alignment after changing my upper control arm cause/contribute to this?
    I reread your post and realized you might mean that the car drifts in one direction only (from the left to the right) as opposed to drifting back and forth. If that's the case, the problem IS your alignment, assuming you have all the tires equally inflated. So have that taken care of.

    If it were tie rod ends or the suspension (shocks), the symptoms would be loose or drifting steering. But it it's just a pull in one direction, wheel alignment is the answer.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by batever View Post
      I reread your post and realized you might mean that the car drifts in one direction only (from the left to the right) as opposed to drifting back and forth. If that's the case, the problem IS your alignment, assuming you have all the tires equally inflated. So have that taken care of.

      If it were tie rod ends or the suspension (shocks), the symptoms would be loose or drifting steering. But it it's just a pull in one direction, wheel alignment is the answer.
      It's both.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by batever View Post
        how about that upper ball joint? you just pressed one in instead of getting a new control arm on that side? I would be checking on that.
        No, I got an all-new control arm. I know enough not to press out the ball joint and risk weakening the control arm.

        Comment


          #19
          If you put a good wing in the back for downforce at high speeds that should take care of it......lol

          Comment


            #20
            But seriously by friend had the same issue and it was the alignment so i don't know if applies with you, replace arms and should be all right.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by BBuncky2 View Post
              It's both.
              Even still, it could be the alignment. I remember when I first lowered my Maxima, handling on the highway was scary as hell, but when I got an alignment it tightened up. Def. at least get your alignment checked out, most shops will give u the #'s for free


              Originally posted by lordoja
              im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

              Comment


                #22
                work van was doing this, had the shocks replaced, and it fixed the problem.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Ok here's what's "scary" now: all of the work that I have to have done on this vehicle.

                  Today, I took my car to Firestone for an alignment (it was just really scaring me how loose the steering was and I finally just went and prepared to just put it on my credit card)

                  I told him to take a look at the tie rods and just the general underside of the vehicle.

                  I was told that the CV joint boot is torn (already knew that)
                  I was told that the flex pipe is cracked (knew it)

                  Finally, I was told two things I didn't know
                  The right tie rod needs to be replaced,

                  and the seal at the tranny-end of the axle is broken and I'm slowly leaking tranny fluid. When I heard that, I was so relieved to find out that they'd found the cause of the leak! I had seen fluid leaking slowly for about 2 months (had been just slowly adding more fluid and keeping a close eye on it), but thought that I had a crack in the tranny.

                  At any rate, I am way over my head here in repair and part costs. On top of all of these things, I pretty much need new tires, too. When all of that is done, I need an alignment (wasn't going to get one today, obviously!)

                  Question for you guys: what's the work like to replace the tie rods? Is it something someone like me with little car repair experience could perform? Do I need a lot of special tools?

                  (Side question: Also, I asked Firestone which parts they use (I asked if they use OEM parts), and he said they don't because OEM doesn't offer a lifetime warranty. Firestone uses some brand called Moose or something that starts with an "M". Anyone know what they are and if they're reliable?)

                  Comment


                    #24
                    They probably use Moog...they are an aftermarket parts supplier...fairly reputable i believe...There are inner and outer tierods...the outer tie rods are fairly simple to replace if that is what they are talking about.


                    "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
                    "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
                    "Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by starchland View Post
                      They probably use Moog...they are an aftermarket parts supplier...fairly reputable i believe...There are inner and outer tierods...the outer tie rods are fairly simple to replace if that is what they are talking about.
                      Oh! That's Federal Mogul! I went to school basically next door to their North American headquarters! (Nothing substantial, I know...just interesting)

                      Also, I work at Nippon Denso...

                      But yeah, I found out it's just an outer tie-rod. I'm going to do both of them myself at the same time. Shouldn't be too hard with some help from my Haynes manual and this site.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Ok here I am at TASAuto about to buy both outer tie rods. The pictures are of two different tie rods! Do you think they really are the same ones, or doesn't it even matter anyway?

                        http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Brows...z=10&h=174&p=1

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by BBuncky2 View Post
                          Ok here I am at TASAuto about to buy both outer tie rods. The pictures are of two different tie rods! Do you think they really are the same ones, or doesn't it even matter anyway?

                          http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Brows...z=10&h=174&p=1
                          Dude just get the kit of all the inner and outer tie rods... way cheaper than the OEM crap and it will make alignment much easier for the mechanic so he doesn't screw everything up.... Did he mention any kind of issues with your control arms being bent too much?

                          I was going to suggest earlier that you go to a real tools store that might have some alignment tools if you are going to be hardcore with your car... I work on some classic cars with a buddy and we use a lock for the steering wheel, a sort of level thing that fits on the tire. we do it first jacked up and then check it with weight on the tire. also it tells you how many degrees each tire is pointing at.... very critical to get that right... thats why your tie rods are so important and you are getting that shake. But with a kit like that only costs maybe $50 if that and you can get everything about as close as the mechanics can. easier with a buddy though! :P
                          AD5OS
                          FOLDING@home

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by AD5OS View Post
                            Dude just get the kit of all the inner and outer tie rods... way cheaper than the OEM crap and it will make alignment much easier for the mechanic so he doesn't screw everything up.... Did he mention any kind of issues with your control arms being bent too much?

                            I was going to suggest earlier that you go to a real tools store that might have some alignment tools if you are going to be hardcore with your car... I work on some classic cars with a buddy and we use a lock for the steering wheel, a sort of level thing that fits on the tire. we do it first jacked up and then check it with weight on the tire. also it tells you how many degrees each tire is pointing at.... very critical to get that right... thats why your tie rods are so important and you are getting that shake. But with a kit like that only costs maybe $50 if that and you can get everything about as close as the mechanics can. easier with a buddy though! :P
                            Well first of all, thanks for the reply. However, I've already ordered two oem tie-rod ends. I was in doubt so I just went for OEM, at the higher price.

                            He didn't mention anything about the control arms being bent too much. They were very observant, in my opinion, when they checked everything out. This is a pretty honest and good shop.

                            Also, isn't it difficult to go in and change the inner tie rods? I have no idea, and I wanted as simple a job as possible. I figured it wouldn't be a big deal to just change the ends if it were aligned properly later. If everything meets or exceeds OEM, it shouldn't be a problem...?

                            Comment


                              #29
                              tie rod ends are important. i changed mine, no more worrys.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by shaunf79 View Post
                                tie rod ends are important. i changed mine, no more worrys.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X