hey ive had this problem since ive had this car, after driving the car it seems my right side radius rod bolt(the one on the crossmember side not the lower control arm side)keeps backing off by itself. I go and tighten it to specs and after a month or so itll be backed off again?Anyone explain this?could it be from the road vibrations or maybe a worn out bushing?
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radius rod backing off??
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The nut on the end of the radius rod is a one-use-only nut I believe. I'm not sure how it works, but it's supposed to somehow be resistant to vibration and loosening, whether it's from a nylon insert or from the thread pattern and material itself. Get a new nut from the dealership and that should take care of your problem. (If you get a new nut, while you're at it, ask them how that nut works and post back as I'm curious) Probably someone did some front end work before you got the car and didn't replace the nut with a new one as they should have.
Or you could cheap out and use medium strength threadlocker and see if that works.Last edited by batever; 10-04-2008, 02:58 PM.
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Originally posted by defbeat View Posthey ive had this problem since ive had this car, after driving the car it seems my right side radius rod bolt(the one on the crossmember side not the lower control arm side)keeps backing off by itself. I go and tighten it to specs and after a month or so itll be backed off again?Anyone explain this?could it be from the road vibrations or maybe a worn out bushing?
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The point about the bushings is good advice.
on the locknut/jam nut issue, however, it is my understanding that using a locknut( what I would call a jam nut) may not be as reliable as using a special nylock nut or other interference nut (whatever Honda calls for) on the end of the radius rod in preventing the nut from loosening.
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The nylon insert only stops the nut backing off if the nut becomes loose, which it shouldn't do if it's tightened tightly enough, i.e. the insert doesn't keep the nut tight, it's tightness keeps it tight. If it keeps coming loose then you haven't tightened it tightly enough, spec torque notwithstanding.
Try lubricating the threads with grease and also under the nut where it bears against the washer. This will mean that less torque is 'lost' to friction in the threads and between the nut and washer, so it will be tighter even if you don't heave any harder on the spanner (sorry, 'wrench' for yanks, and for Canadians...?).
New nuts are cheap, I'd get some anyway, even if the insert isn't the actual problem...Regards from Oz,
John.
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Originally posted by defbeat View Posthey u guys think that this problem could have affected my bearing casue since this has been happening my bearing on that side started to get worse, its not grinding or nething just kindof making noise when im at higher speed?Regards from Oz,
John.
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Originally posted by wed3k View Posti thinkk the radius rod only affects the caster?
I've been battling an intermittent steering pull for ages, finally figured out that it was the front subframe not being bolted in tightly enough and moving in use. Those four bolts holding the front subframe in place need to be very tight.Regards from Oz,
John.
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Originally posted by johnl View PostLike caster isn't important? Yes, if the nut becomes loose then caster on that side will reduce, and also erratically change while driving, which will cause steering pull in the direction of the lesser caster angle.
I've been battling an intermittent steering pull for ages, finally figured out that it was the front subframe not being bolted in tightly enough and moving in use. Those four bolts holding the front subframe in place need to be very tight.
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so ive retightened the bolt and put some locktight on there, driving after that is alot better and ive noticed that the clutch problem i had earlier(in the morning it would pulse upon release) has gone away so maybe my wheel was moving back and forth from the torque and everytime it hit the bushing it would bounce and casue that vibration. neways does anyone know if u can buy a hub and rotor kit which would be easier casue it would just bolt on and i wouldnt have to press anything, my rotors are pretty warped so if i can replace everything it would be nice?
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Originally posted by defbeat View Postso ive retightened the bolt and put some locktight on there, driving after that is alot better and ive noticed that the clutch problem i had earlier(in the morning it would pulse upon release) has gone away so maybe my wheel was moving back and forth from the torque and everytime it hit the bushing it would bounce and casue that vibration. neways does anyone know if u can buy a hub and rotor kit which would be easier casue it would just bolt on and i wouldnt have to press anything, my rotors are pretty warped so if i can replace everything it would be nice?
That's the akebono kit. there is one for nissin too. depending on which one you have.
http://tasauto.com/Product/Browse.as...z=10&h=175&p=1
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