I've been trying to avoid spending this money, but it has come to the point where a front camber kit is absolutley neccesary. Im dropped on D2 Coilovers and wanted to go with d2.. but it doesnt seem that they offer kits for cb7's.. Soo my question to you guys is, What is the best quality kit I can buy without spending a whole lot.. What do you guys recomend the bushing type or whole upper control arm type?
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1999 BMW M3
2001 Honda CR-V SE RT4WD
2005 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71
2015 Suzuki V-Strom 650 -
o great.. thanks, I just ordered the Ingalls (+1¼° - +3°) rubber bushing kit, You guys seemed to be happy with it...
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I wouldn't go with anything but the TASauto arms. The Ingalls ball joint requires removal of the stock ball joint, which can weaken the metal and cause failure. The anchor bolt style work well enough, but they can be a pain. I've heard of them breaking, even the Ingalls ones (though you're MUCH safer buying a good brand like Ingalls... just install it correctly)
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yeah.. i am getting it installed proffesionaly.. so hopefuly i will be alright... I spent about 160 for the kit.. and getting it installed with alignment for 150..Last edited by and1jr17; 10-01-2008, 05:31 PM.Comment
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Is it the ball joint kit? A professional installer still has to press the old joint out of the arm. Honda doesn't sell the upper ball joints separate from the arm for a reason.
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Oh, ok. The anchor bolt kit. Just be sure it's not overtorqued and it should be fine. That's most likely the primary reason for the quality ones like that breaking.
You don't really need a professional to install those. They're easy enough to do yourself. Just get it professionally aligned afterward.
If you go with 0 degrees, you're probably going to smack your upper control arm on the inner fenderwell.
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He already has the car for other work.. and i just want it done, also just started school.. realy dont have the time to get my hands into something like that.Originally posted by deevergote. View Post
How do i avoid having these clearance issues.. Also dont know if it makes a difference but the control arm and whole suspension assembly is Integra TR and also it has 15'' type r wheels... and I'll b sure to tell him not to overtorque them. AnComment
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Wait... this is on an Integra, or an Accord? You're not using Integra parts on an Accord, are you?
To avoid hitting, havnig one degree of negative camber is supposed to work. I'm at 0 myself, and I hit.
As for installing the parts yourself, it takes about 30 minutes. If your mechanic already has the car, then perhaps it'll be worth it... but I wouldn't want to pay a mechanic's rate for something so simple.
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I added this to another post, but here goes.....I know it's crazy, but I cut out the space above the control arms. I wish I had pictures, but it did work and I have no flexing problems.F22a1, T3/T4 turbo, Greddy Type RS BOV on left-over AEM CAI piping, Turbo XS manual boost controller, PHAT intercooler, Crzy tuning, Walbro fuel pump, AEM FPR/fuel rail/pulleys/cam gear, Gude cam and throttle body, MSD ignition/cap/coil, NGK wires and Iridium plugs, Fidanza flywheel, ACT clutch, Nuespeed short shifter
9 lbs on stock internals (for 10 min)
16.2 1/4 mile with basics
??.? 1/4 mile with turbo
139 hp with all bolt-ons
??? hp with turbo
STAY TUNEDComment
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oyu got to get a camber kit or you are going to be spending more money on tire'sComment
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