okay it started about two weeks ago my car (after sittin for a couple hours each day) would start up and make like a high pitch squeling sound and it would last maybe 3 seconds each time..well this lasted for a week and then yesterday i started my car and the low oil pressure light came on and stayed on for a minute or two and it sounded like it was almost knockin when it was slightly reved..then this morining i start my car and drive to get gas and then after i get gas i start my car and the light comes on and stays on for like a couple minutes and i slowly start drivin my car and the oil pressure liight starts flickering every so offten and will go off for a couple minutes then will flicker...but after about 15 minutes the light went off....whats going on???
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help: Oil Pressure light
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that squeeling sounds would be the belt. nothing really to worry about but you can get a can of belt dressing which is a sort of lube for the belt to help with that noise.
as for the oil light, check your oil level it may be low. did you notice any leaks under where the car was parked?Hold On Not Done Accelerating
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Originally posted by jas_r34 View Postthat squeeling sounds would be the belt. nothing really to worry about but you can get a can of belt dressing which is a sort of lube for the belt to help with that noise.
as for the oil light, check your oil level it may be low. did you notice any leaks under where the car was parked?
well the sound im pretty sure wasnt comin from the belt and my oil is full. and no leakss...4 door pimpin'
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Originally posted by tn_accord View Postwell the sound im pretty sure wasnt comin from the belt and my oil is full. and no leakss...98' Mustang 3V Swap
11' VW CC R36
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This happened to me once. When it did, the light flickered a few times then went out and a few seconds later came on steady. About a mile later I noticed oil pooring out bellow my engine, got it all fixed for about $600, it was the ballence shaft ring (seal) and all that happened was it fell out, as simple as that. While the mechanic was replacing it I went ahead and got a new water pump and other things while he was there... I agree with Jas, make sure to keep an eye on your oil fore a while and check it OFTEN, luckilly I stopped my car as soon as I saw the light and there was no damage...
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2 year ASE Certification/Auto Technician Degree completed
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the oil light is an oil pressure light. the squealing--who knows, it could be your oil pump seizing up, it could be a belt.
I assume you have checked your oil level.
the oil light on steady for 2 minutes is bad. it means you were below 3.6 psi oil pressure. for the whole time it was on steady (I am assuming your oil pressure sending unit, which measures the oil pressure and activates the warning light, is ok since there were what sounded like physical symptoms of oil starvation in your engine (knocking sounds). And since you were driving the car, I'll asssume between 2000 and 3000 rpms on the engine, you were between 20 and 30 lbs psi low on oil pressure.
The knocking during that episode would be symptoms of the engine being starved for lubrication, parts rubbing, and possibly gripping/seizing against one another because the flow of oil is not great enough to keep the parts separate and to also carry off heat from the parts (the oil flow carries heat off as well as lubricating). When the internal engine parts get hot, they can get to the point that you have surface melting of the metal/surface galling. Probably you haven't gotten there yet since the noises haven't continued) )
Probably the oil pump is starting to go, the squealing would have been possible the rotating part of the oil pump seizing on its center bearing, but being dragged through its revolutions by the engine belt.
Later on in your story:
the blinking oil light means an oil pressure below 3.6 psi for less than half a second. Not so good, but livable if all you are doing is idling. Normal idle oil pressure would be around 7-10 psi.
these intermittent drops in oil pressure in your engine will cause ongoing damage.
I'd guess you are looking at an oil pump replacement, it's not cheap because of the labor. Maybe $600 or a little more, but you can have them do your timing belt, bal shaft belt, & water pump while they are at it because all of that has to come off to get at the oil pump.
You have to do it or the car is toast.
How many miles on the car, and would you like to keep it?Last edited by batever; 10-01-2008, 10:22 PM.
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Originally posted by tn_accord View Post.then this morining i start my car and drive to get gas and then after i get gas i start my car and the light comes on and stays on for like a couple minutes and i slowly start drivin my car and the oil pressure liight starts flickering every so offten and will go off for a couple minutes then will flicker...but after about 15 minutes the light went off....whats going on???
then as you started to rev the car (drive it) the pump was able to get pressure above 3.6 psi, or only intermittently below 3.6 psi=the flickering light.
after 15 min the light went off--the pump was pumping above 3.6 psi. But you don't know that it was at the right levels (10psi for 1000 RPM, at least 20PSI for 2000 rpms, and at least 30 psi for 3000 rpms (although honda calls for 50 psi, 30 psi is probably safe for 3000 rpms).
I would get the car in immediately for an oil pressure test. They will have to fiddle with it/wait for the conditions to replicate.
You may have a faulty oil pressure sending unit as well, but we can be pretty sure that you have actual oil pressure problems as well because of the knocking sounds you heard before.
You could also have a clogged/defective oil filter. Though I think you have an issue with the oil pump as well.
In that case, change the oil with 5w-30 and put a good filter like a Honda stock filter or a Bosch (make sure it's the USA made one, not any other--look on the filter itself). You want a sturdily made filter, not like a FRAM or something.
in effect, the oil pressure light is telling you that there is low oil pressure after between the oil filter and the engine. So it is either the oil pump failing, or perhaps something blocking up the oil flow like debris in the filter, or both.
So There is a very slim chance your problem would go away with just the oil change/filter change. Note that I highly doubt this, but it is possible.
I really think, based on the squealing sound you were describing, that the oil pump is having issues. In which case you need to have it changed.
At the very least, do not drive the car when the oil light comes on steady. Pull over and stop it immediately. My best/safest recommendation would be, have it TOWED to a good mechanic and checked out, or drive it very gently over.Last edited by batever; 10-01-2008, 10:19 PM.
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update.
today i got it my car and started it up..the oil light was solid for about 30 seconds..it sounded like the motor was hollow lol but anyways i started driving down the street and the light starts steadly blinking and it stays on for the whole twenty minutes im driving to school...4 door pimpin'
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Originally posted by batever View Postthe oil light is an oil pressure light. the squealing--who knows, it could be your oil pump seizing up, it could be a belt.
I assume you have checked your oil level.
the oil light on steady for 2 minutes is bad. it means you were below 3.6 psi oil pressure. for the whole time it was on steady (I am assuming your oil pressure sending unit, which measures the oil pressure and activates the warning light, is ok since there were what sounded like physical symptoms of oil starvation in your engine (knocking sounds). And since you were driving the car, I'll asssume between 2000 and 3000 rpms on the engine, you were between 20 and 30 lbs psi low on oil pressure.
The knocking during that episode would be symptoms of the engine being starved for lubrication, parts rubbing, and possibly gripping/seizing against one another because the flow of oil is not great enough to keep the parts separate and to also carry off heat from the parts (the oil flow carries heat off as well as lubricating). When the internal engine parts get hot, they can get to the point that you have surface melting of the metal/surface galling. Probably you haven't gotten there yet since the noises haven't continued) )
Probably the oil pump is starting to go, the squealing would have been possible the rotating part of the oil pump seizing on its center bearing, but being dragged through its revolutions by the engine belt.
Later on in your story:
the blinking oil light means an oil pressure below 3.6 psi for less than half a second. Not so good, but livable if all you are doing is idling. Normal idle oil pressure would be around 7-10 psi.
these intermittent drops in oil pressure in your engine will cause ongoing damage.
I'd guess you are looking at an oil pump replacement, it's not cheap because of the labor. Maybe $600 or a little more, but you can have them do your timing belt, bal shaft belt, & water pump while they are at it because all of that has to come off to get at the oil pump.
You have to do it or the car is toast.
How many miles on the car, and would you like to keep it?
its got 322k original miles.. so im not really surprised if the motor is fixing to take a shit lol..4 door pimpin'
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Originally posted by batever View Postthe oil light is an oil pressure light. the squealing--who knows, it could be your oil pump seizing up, it could be a belt.
I assume you have checked your oil level.
the oil light on steady for 2 minutes is bad. it means you were below 3.6 psi oil pressure. for the whole time it was on steady (I am assuming your oil pressure sending unit, which measures the oil pressure and activates the warning light, is ok since there were what sounded like physical symptoms of oil starvation in your engine (knocking sounds). And since you were driving the car, I'll asssume between 2000 and 3000 rpms on the engine, you were between 20 and 30 lbs psi low on oil pressure.
The knocking during that episode would be symptoms of the engine being starved for lubrication, parts rubbing, and possibly gripping/seizing against one another because the flow of oil is not great enough to keep the parts separate and to also carry off heat from the parts (the oil flow carries heat off as well as lubricating). When the internal engine parts get hot, they can get to the point that you have surface melting of the metal/surface galling. Probably you haven't gotten there yet since the noises haven't continued) )
Probably the oil pump is starting to go, the squealing would have been possible the rotating part of the oil pump seizing on its center bearing, but being dragged through its revolutions by the engine belt.
Later on in your story:
the blinking oil light means an oil pressure below 3.6 psi for less than half a second. Not so good, but livable if all you are doing is idling. Normal idle oil pressure would be around 7-10 psi.
these intermittent drops in oil pressure in your engine will cause ongoing damage.
I'd guess you are looking at an oil pump replacement, it's not cheap because of the labor. Maybe $600 or a little more, but you can have them do your timing belt, bal shaft belt, & water pump while they are at it because all of that has to come off to get at the oil pump.
You have to do it or the car is toast.
How many miles on the car, and would you like to keep it?
its got 322k original miles so i wouldnt be surprised if the motor is fixing to take a shit...4 door pimpin'
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322K is nothing, my dad got over 490K on a cb7, and my mother currently has 412K on a 03 civic90 accord EX automatic F22A4 232,500
DIY ram intake
0gauge/4gauge BIG 3
stock alt rewound to 120amps
optima orange top 830cca 1030ca
fully synthetic valvoline "Max Life" 5w30
Other rides:
2004 Jeep Liberty v6
2001 Honda civic ex coupe 1.7 vtec
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batever makes the most sense in this thread.
You are probably hearing engine knock. The belt squeal may be related or be coincidence.
My theory:
Your belt squeal is probably related and occurs when you're engine is running, then your engine slows up (low oil psi, harder to turn) but inertia of the accessory pullies (ALT, etc) try to keep accessory belt going = squeal condition.
Fact is when oil pressure light comes on, stays on, means lower than 4 psi. You have an oil pressure issue, that is not good for your motor. Flickering means you're on the 4 psi limit, flucutating above and below. The longer you put your motor through this condition without attention, engine failure will occur and you probably have done the damage, so it is inevitable now.
That hollow sound from motor, is probably engine knock and your rod and/or main brgs are toast.
Conclusion:
From your story, it seems the abuse is done and irreversible. Don't drive any far distances from your home, be prepared for engine failure. Work on back up plan now for engine replacement.
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most likly your oil pump my friend, the light comes on for one of two reasons, one reson being that there is not enough oil in the pan for it to flow properly, and two would be because you might have a vacuum leak to the intake, cheal all of your hoses for small leaks, a good way of doing this would to get a soap and water combination and apply to all of your vacuum lines with a paint brush, if you loose your bubbles you have vacuum trobles!
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