trying to buy a c-pillar strut bar

[C91BLX7]

I want to be the first with an A pillar bar!

[deevergote]

I want to be the first with an A pillar bar!

Dude, mock one up... make it look real. Then put it up for sale and see if anyone shows interest. I bet someone will.

[MadSpleen85]

I want to be the first with an A pillar bar!

I want 2!





lol

[C91BLX7]

Dude, mock one up... make it look real. Then put it up for sale and see if anyone shows interest. I bet someone will.

I always wanted to start a fad!

[youngJAY]

rmfao

[Taurians' Ryde]

Uhm ok....lol

The A pillar is the part that holds the windshield. The B pillar is the part between the front and rear doors (on sedans). The C pillar is the part that holds the rear windshield.

Ok so before I go mental trying to understand all this….when all of you are talking about “pillars” I’m assuming you are talking the pillars that run from the roof to the area just below the windows.

In theory I guess you could say CB7’s have 6 pillars.

I have never, ever heard of an “A, B or C-pillar strut bar”. What I have heard of is a Front or Rear Upper Strut Brace and a Rear Lower Strut Bar or “tie bar” ( when lets face it, it doesn’t connect anywhere near the rear struts, OH WAIT, they’re shocks..lol. )





It would be quite the sight to see a "brace" going between the pillars...lol

We all know that no matter how good/thick your strut bars are they will never get rid of that body roll that we have from OEM strut/shock/spring setups. The only way to completely reduce body roll is the replacement of stock springs for sure, and strut/shocks.

Body roll is a result of suspension setup or lack there of….lol….and bolting a connecting rod between the top of the front/rear strut towers should NOT make you think it will reduce body roll. On our cars they just look good. On performance cars that are front engine, rear drive they have tremendous torque from the motor and rear diff to justify a brace on either area.

I have both the front and rear ones and I didn’t notice a difference after they were on and I corner HARD. I have new 205/50/16 Pirelli P-Zero Asimmetrico’s and those suckers grip. The stock springs and struts just let the car pitch too much. It sucks…lol

It was just weird to hear everyone talk about pillars when the braces are nowhere near them….lol

Just trying to clarify that’s all.

[johnl]

We all know that no matter how good/thick your strut bars are they will never get rid of that body roll that we have from OEM strut/shock/spring setups. The only way to completely reduce body roll is the replacement of stock springs for sure, and strut/shocks.

You don't want to "completely" eliminate body roll. Ultra high roll stiffness causes very abrupt weight transfer and makes for very responsive but dangerously unforgiving handling, i.e. the chassis will tend to let go at the limit with almost no warning.

A modicum of body roll is your friend. I used to own a Lotus 7 style sports car (poor man's Lotus clone), that suffered from excessively high rear roll stiffness. This was just great, the car was instantly responsive and would corner absolutely flat on rails pulling big 'Gs', but, then it might arbitrarily decide to snap into uncontrollable oversteer and you hit the scenery going backwards wondering what the hell just happened.

This occurred more than once in the dry, and in the wet it was just treacherous. And before anyone suggests it was the driver, I'm a pretty good kart racer, I have no trouble controlling oversteering vehicles, except for that one...

Body roll is a result of suspension setup or lack there of….lol….and bolting a connecting rod between the top of the front/rear strut towers should NOT make you think it will reduce body roll. On our cars they just look good. On performance cars that are front engine, rear drive they have tremendous torque from the motor and rear diff to justify a brace on either area.

There is no such thing as a chassis that is too rigid (unless it's a kart). A rigid chassis enhances handling by increasing steering and handling responsiveness, but won't necessarily reduce body roll to a noticable degree. The improvement in response created by good tower braces is well worth the price of admission.

If you want to redece roll motion and reduce understeer, then you want a stiffer rear anti roll bar, which will be enhanced by a rear tower brace.

The issue isn't to do with engine torque twisting the chassis, it's to do with vertical forces associated with cornering acting at each suspension corner to twist the chassis.

I have both the front and rear ones and I didn’t notice a difference after they were on and I corner HARD.

Then I would suggest it's probable that your tower braces were not rigid enough. Very few aftermarket tower braces are stiff enough to do much at all. Most of them are flexible in the brackets that attach the bar to the tower tops, which is just as bad as the bar itself being floppy.

I have front and rear tower braces on my car, the difference is very noticable, and I don't corner all that hard (at least very rarely...). My braces are home made and very rigid, and the difference can be felt even when cornering sedately. In fact you can feel the chassis stiffness increase just travelling in a straight line on less than smooth roads.

[deevergote]

I once had a cheap front upper strut tower bar. Matrix was the brand. It was garbage, and bent easily. I felt no difference (and the fact that it bent shows that there ARE twisting forces at that point.) I replaced it with a Megan Racing bar, which is a DC Sports clone. Far from the best, but also far from the worst. I immediately noticed the difference. It's not a drastic change, like going from a tired stock suspenion to race springs and Konis on full stiff... but it's there.