Need help, Battery drain. Electrical problem.

[RetailHell]

I'm not sure how to even trouble shoot it. Basically the car is fine as long as I drive it, but if i let it sit on its own for a few days (3 to 10) the battery completely drains. I've even replaced the battery with a new one and the problem still exists. It shouldn't drain out so fast on so few days, especially with a new battery.

It's a 1992 Accord EX. The AC doesn't work and it has power options. (windows, mirror, locks, radio antenna.)

I need this vehicle running so i can go to work and stop having to ask my friends for rides. It's getting profusely annoying. I don't always have time to jump it or recharge the battery. I need it fixed, my last resort will be to take it to a shop if nobody can help me.

[Leung]

does it have an alarm system?

[bobbycos]

I'm not sure how to even trouble shoot it. Basically the car is fine as long as I drive it, but if i let it sit on its own for a few days (3 to 10) the battery completely drains. I've even replaced the battery with a new one and the problem still exists. It shouldn't drain out so fast on so few days, especially with a new battery.

It's a 1992 Accord EX. The AC doesn't work and it has power options. (windows, mirror, locks, radio antenna.)

I need this vehicle running so i can go to work and stop having to ask my friends for rides. It's getting profusely annoying. I don't always have time to jump it or recharge the battery. I need it fixed, my last resort will be to take it to a shop if nobody can help me.

if i let my car sit for a week or two some of my power options can drain the battery. use a test light on your fuses with the key off, you should be able to find the drain that way.

[92bently]

u need to c what kind of amperage draw u have on it, with a multimeter, and then start unplugging components,when the draw is gone and u have something unplugged u know whats causng it

[RetailHell]

Guess it's time to hit up the hardware store for some diagnosis tools.

I've been meaning to remove the power options, just haven't found the time to pick up manual window interior panels and I'm not so sure what wires to cut. There was a chiltons manual for accords on craigs that i was trying to snag but i havent got a reply yet.

It has no alarm system as far as I'm aware. I figure the AC died because the battery died. Yay for freon recharge bills...

I bought the car for 1k, figured it was a good deal for a 200k mile car with only the ABS/Brake/Oil/Battery lights on but no Engine check. Ran smooth and all... intended to fix it up and drive it at the same time. Thanks for the help, any further assistance would be appercaited. Gonna jump it and run down to autozone.

[EJX_Michael]

Guess it's time to hit up the hardware store for some diagnosis tools.

I've been meaning to remove the power options, just haven't found the time to pick up manual window interior panels and I'm not so sure what wires to cut. There was a chiltons manual for accords on craigs that i was trying to snag but i havent got a reply yet.

It has no alarm system as far as I'm aware. I figure the AC died because the battery died. Yay for freon recharge bills...

I bought the car for 1k, figured it was a good deal for a 200k mile car with only the ABS/Brake/Oil/Battery lights on but no Engine check. Ran smooth and all... intended to fix it up and drive it at the same time. Thanks for the help, any further assistance would be appercaited. Gonna jump it and run down to autozone.

1. If your battery light is on wile you drive, it means your charing system is not charging the battery. Thus every time you start the car, its taking what little power the battery can give it. But not recharging the battery. Have your alternator tested at autozone. Its free. Also pick up a haynes manual for your cb7 there. I got mine for $19.78 at Autozone

2. Brake light is probably because your brake fluid resivor is low. Fill it.

3. Oil light is your low oil pressure light. The switch on the block may just be bad. But if it isnt, you are causing SERIOUS damage to your engine.

4. Your AC should not have died because your battery died.

5. Now that i think about it the AC and Alternator are on the same drive belt. Check your belts to make sure they are both there. Also check the tension if they are.

6. Why am I numbering things?

Good luck.

[batever]

1. yes, make sure the alternator/ ac belt has adequate tension and isn't slipping. and have that alternator tested.

2. What he said above.

2b. Start with the fundamentals, the alternator and its belt, before going on to testing the power options. ask the guy (occasionally, girl) at autozone if it seems like your belt is loose or something is off if you don't know what to look for. They see enough of them, they can just tell you while they are testing the alternator.

3. also my earlier post somehow disapeared, in which I said, until you have this thing figured out, you might want to try undoing the negative battery clamp if you park the car for more than a day. Just put a 10mm wrech in your glove compartment or change drawer for that purpose. That's if an electrical drain is your issue. If it's the alternator, that won't help. But if electrical drain is part of the issue, unhooking the negative battery terminal when you park it for more than a day should help.

4. Is you oil pressure light coming on steady, or is it blinking? And does it come on at idle or when you are driving? This is important information.

[wed3k]

have you checked all your fuses? i think this happened to my dad's lexus where it fried the batteries because of the amount of drain on power. turns out to be the broken cluster, replaced, new fuse and new battery and it was all set.

[totaldoughnut]

u need to c what kind of amperage draw u have on it, with a multimeter, and then start unplugging components,when the draw is gone and u have something unplugged u know whats causng it

Exactly what I was about to sugest. Use a multimeter and check amperage draw from the battery with key off. If its excessive, start by unplugging fuses to isolate to a specific circuit.

Do you have beat? Ive seen some people wire up amps incorrectly. They wired up the 12v signal wire to battery along with the main power supply for the amp. Doing that means the amps are on constanly, even with key off. Ive seen it happen alot.

[totaldoughnut]

u need to c what kind of amperage draw u have on it, with a multimeter, and then start unplugging components,when the draw is gone and u have something unplugged u know whats causng it

Exactly what I was about to suggest. Use a multimeter and check amperage draw from the battery with key off. If its excessive, start by unplugging fuses to isolate to a specific circuit.

Do you have beat? Ive seen some people wire up amps incorrectly. They wired up the 12v signal wire to battery along with the main power supply for the amp. Doing that means the amps are on constanly, even with key off. Ive seen it happen alot.

I can honestly say I didnt read through the entire thread here. But are you positive your battery is good?

[jdm_inspired]

Exactly what I was about to suggest. Use a multimeter and check amperage draw from the battery with key off. If its excessive, start by unplugging fuses to isolate to a specific circuit.

Do you have beat? Ive seen some people wire up amps incorrectly. They wired up the 12v signal wire to battery along with the main power supply for the amp. Doing that means the amps are on constanly, even with key off. Ive seen it happen alot.

I can honestly say I didnt read through the entire thread here. But are you positive your battery is good?

Are you referring to the remote wire? I have this problem every so often. I think its my alternator on its way out. I will definately find out within the next couple days. I'm testing electrical components on the car.

[evil_demon_01]

Exactly what I was about to sugest. Use a multimeter and check amperage draw from the battery with key off. If its excessive, start by unplugging fuses to isolate to a specific circuit.

Do you have beat? Ive seen some people wire up amps incorrectly. They wired up the 12v signal wire to battery along with the main power supply for the amp. Doing that means the amps are on constanly, even with key off. Ive seen it happen alot.

God point, but more specifically, anything between 0 and 0.75 amps current draw is acceptable with the ignition off.
To test current draw is simple, and gives an instant place to start looking for faults, if the current draw is not excessive (over 0.75 amps) and yu still have an issue start loking towards the alternator.

What accessories have you added yourself - Ie amps, fogs stereo etc since the problem? or has it always been there?

[Flatline]

i had a bad draw from my alternator before... if you have the multi meter there might as well check the amperage on the battery while the car is running..


my alt was full fielding when i had the draw. so it could be worth it to check that.

[BLUBB2]

Guess it's time to hit up the hardware store for some diagnosis tools.

I've been meaning to remove the power options, just haven't found the time to pick up manual window interior panels and I'm not so sure what wires to cut. There was a chiltons manual for accords on craigs that i was trying to snag but i havent got a reply yet.

It has no alarm system as far as I'm aware. I figure the AC died because the battery died. Yay for freon recharge bills...

I bought the car for 1k, figured it was a good deal for a 200k mile car with only the ABS/Brake/Oil/Battery lights on but no Engine check. Ran smooth and all... intended to fix it up and drive it at the same time. Thanks for the help, any further assistance would be appercaited. Gonna jump it and run down to autozone.

Lol So you bought the car because it had no CEL but all the other malfunctioning lights were on?
To tell you the truth they are more serious.

Battery light = needing a jump all the time
Brake light= u better hope you e-brake works
oil light= low oil pressure which can lead to catatrophic engine failure