Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

front wheel bearing or hub assembly

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    front wheel bearing or hub assembly

    Ok my frontside wheel bearing is going slowly but I want to replace it asap. Anyway would it be asier to do a self install on the bearing alone and keep my existing hub assembly or to replace the whole assembly? Seems like getting the bearing out of the hub will be a pain in the ass. I can get a pretty good deal on the whole assembly which is almost the same as the bearing price alone. My main concern is ease of installation, I am real big on doing all my own mechanical work if I can so i want to avoid going to a shop. Is there a DIY on this ? Also I work at Home depot so i can get pretty much any tools I want or may need. Thanks for the help. Changing the whole assembly seems easy in theory as opposed to removing and replacing the bearing from the whole assembly. I just want confirmation before i buy anything. Let me know guys.


    R.I.P> Ronald Murphy the best dad ever in life. YOu will be missed.

    #2
    well the hub is pressed to the bearing. that is the only hard part about it... if you can press the bearing out and press the new one by your self then go for it, if not then get the new assembly....
    are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by alb_accord View Post
      well the hub is pressed to the bearing. that is the only hard part about it... if you can press the bearing out and press the new one by your self then go for it, if not then get the new assembly....
      X2. If you have access to a press then it really isn't hard, you just have to make sure you are square on it when you start pressing.

      My question is, if you can get the whole assembly for near bearing price, why not just replace the whole works?
      1992 Prelude S w/swapped H22A

      Comment


        #4
        Well i was thinking that maybe there was something i was overlooking and maybe the hub assembly swap may have been harder than i anticipated. Looks like it bolts right up without any special tools. Thanks again I just wanted to double check


        R.I.P> Ronald Murphy the best dad ever in life. YOu will be missed.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by newyorkcb7ss View Post
          Well i was thinking that maybe there was something i was overlooking and maybe the hub assembly swap may have been harder than i anticipated. Looks like it bolts right up without any special tools. Thanks again I just wanted to double check
          Yea it will bolt right up,if you dont swap, some of the earlier models do have the torx style of bolts that hold the bearing onto the hub assembley so you might have to get that socket they arent that expensive,autoclone or advance has them.

          Comment


            #6
            i had to do the sam thing to my car and ironically around the same time, im surprised i did not see this thread earlier, from the looks of it seems like you got it done already but for someone else's reference here is hoe i did mine: i had the same questions you had, but while looking for a used one locally from someone that was parting a accord i called a guy that works on nothing but accord and he told me that thoe parts at the auto parts store dont last that long, so he adviced me to get one from a junk jard, he made a good point saying that if my other one lasted me this long that its better to go ahead and get an oem one from a low miled accord (hopefully who ever owned the donor car did not already change the oem bearings on it) my main concern personally was the pressing in part, i could have taken it to pep boys but i did not want to run the risk of them doing it wrong, so i got the entire knuckle with the rotor and all that stuff, you do need a 12 point socket to get the bolts behind the rotor, then from there is pretty much take the one off your car and replace it with the one you got, you will need to take off the end of the cv joint that goes into the bearing you dont need to take it out the entire joint, the only ither tool you would need is a ball joint seperator, looks like a fork, you can rent it from autozone
            Last edited by semitas; 09-15-2008, 12:19 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              I say buy the whole unit (bearing and hub) and be done with it. Then you really dont have to worry about any pressing. After removing the steering knuckle and the 4 12 point bolts in the back the bearing needs a few taps to seperate it from the steering knuckle. (ok, maybe more than a few taps).

              Comment

              Working...
              X