so i changed my boys clutch and now the car doesnt want to shift while the car is running. its like its not disengaging the clutch all the way. ive bleed the line several times but to no avail. if i lift the front wheels off the ground i can kindof force it into gear but the tires start rotating automatically. also if i start the car in gear i can drive it around but if i try to shift it will go to nuetral but not another gear. ive done some research but cant find anything. the only thing that seemed like it might be is the pedal engaugement point. if any one has had this problem and can provide some insight it would be greatly appreciated. thanx.
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new clutch and now problems
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hmm this is a good one...check over eerything u did first....the pedal isnt going to be the cause unless u messed with it, unless of course the reason for the clutch chnge was because of the problem with the trans going into gear....the problem is definately that the clutch is not disengaging....now it could be a few things....i know u said u have bled the system, even mulitple times...but ive seen this before....all the air has to be out, but it might not be....also check ur shifter cables....other than that, somehow the clutch was installed improperly...now i am not sure if its even possible,cuz i have never tried it, but could u have installed the disk backwards??i dont think u would be able to tighten the bolts, but just a thought....double and triple check the very few things it could be outside the trans, and other than that looks like ull have to take it back out to find the real source of the problem...good luck ill check back to see how u are making outLost Motion Inc. Repair and Performance Automotive
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i took the trans back out and double checked everything. the disk was in there correctly. the reason we changed it is because it was slipping we put in a act 12lb flywheel and excedy clutch. trust when i say before i pulled the tranny again i made sure it was bleed correctly. i read on hear about pedal ajustment for engaugement point and it seems like that may be it put i want to atleast hear some opinions before i put it back in. it seemed like there was a;ot of play between the slave cylender and the fork before i pulled the tranny. thats why i pulled it back out because i thought maybe i put the fork in wrong but it was correct. ive done 2 clutch jobs in my own accords and 1 in my friends integra and never ran into this problem before.
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same issue
I had the same issue, turned out to be my flywheel!
I know you said you put a flywheel in, was it new?
I would get it checked by the shop, my flywheel was reground
but turned out that it has been reground too many times so I
got a new one, installed it, and it worked great!
besides that, that is all I replaced and it worked fine. I had the same exact symptoms you are describing!
Good luck brotha!
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Sounds to me like its air in the hyrdo clutch line you have to bleed it really really good and push in the piston on the slave cylinder with your finger back and forth while your bleeding this will push all the air back up to the resevoir,but your best bet is to get a vacum pump believe me it will save you so much time and pain, the are not all that expensive Autozone has them its the only way to go for these hydro clutch systems they can be very hard to bleed out without one. I fought one on a 92 for hours and it was acting just like yours before I finally got a vac pump and 2 minutes later a full clutch pedal! Hope this might help, Good luck.
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Originally posted by porter351 View Posti read on hear about pedal ajustment for engaugement point and it seems like that may be it put i want to atleast hear some opinions before i put it back in. it seemed like there was a;ot of play between the slave cylender and the fork before i pulled the tranny. thats why i pulled it back out because i thought maybe i put the fork in wrong but it was correct.
There should be a small amount of free play between the pedal and the master cylinder push rod, if this is too much then it needs adjusting.Regards from Oz,
John.
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thanx ill try the vacum pump. we got the tranny back in and still doing the same thing. i put the master cylender and slave cylder from my accord ( brand new units) on it and still having the same problem. i tried the pedal ajustment but no sucsess. i bleed the fucker a bunch of times but nothing. i just think its wierd because ive never had a problem bleeding a clutch line before. im gonna go back and make sure there are no leaks anywhere.
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It does sound like the pushrod is just not pushing the fork far enough(?), which would make sense if there is substantial free play at the pushrod (losing motion even before the pushrod engages).
If it's a non stock clutch then maybe it has less 'depth' than the OE unit, and the pushrod needs to be longer to allow for this?
Maybe there's damage / wear in the fork and / or pivot bolt (the 'stud' with domed head the fork pivots on)?? Maybe the pivot bolt could be spaced out with a washer(s) until you get zero play at the pushrod / fork?
A trick for bleeding the slave C; the slave C is pretty much horizontal, so jacking the car up on the left side so the bleed nipple becomes the highest part of the slave C might help get rid of any bubbles that may still be lurking at the far end of the slave C...?Regards from Oz,
John.
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