lower Ball joint HLP

[GearBangnAccord]

i need to get the nut off my lwoer BJ it just spins when i try to unbolt it shud i use a clamp or something other than a claw clamp ot ball joint tool? Mind you im just changin an axel pass side

[jimy]

You need to apply some pressure to the control arm. You'll need another jack to push up against it.

[GearBangnAccord]

You need to apply some pressure to the control arm. You'll need another jack to push up against it.

tried dat still spins

[dsmfreaks]

in that case i would just finish removing the spindle and sawzall the lower ball joint . time for a new one. if its original then its probably not a bad idea any way

[batever]

I don't get it, is the whole ball joint spinning when you turn the nut? That's weird considering it has to be pressed in when installed. Did you separate the knuckle and control arm with a ball joint puller or clamp and it came unpressed as you did it, or did you use a pickle fork, or did you just hammer the control arm to separate it? I'm curious.

First I'd try lifting the car under the control arm until the control arm takes the weight of the vehicle so the weight of the right front quarter of the car is pressing down on the bj and pressing it back into the mounting hole. If you can of course put a jackstand under there, but if you go till it just starts to lift off your existing jackstand that's probably just as safe.


You could also try pressing it back in with a big c clamp if you can fit one on there. (oil the threads of the clamp). Maybe you can't do that while it's on the car, my memory is hazy about it. Once you press it back in the hole you'll be able to get enough friction that you may be able to turn the nut. You did pb blast the nut, right?? If you have time to pb blast it and then wait a few hours or even overnight that might do the job right there, it has done wonders for me in the past.

I would think jacking the car up would apply more downward force to the bj than the c clamp but who knows.

Of just try this:
Use a large nutbreaker on the nut (ouch!)
Then you can just replace the castle nut if the stud and threads on the bj is still ok afterwards. Make sure you can get a replacement castle nut though first or you'll end up needing a new bj anyways.

[Granite CB7]

Again, try jacking the LCA up to the LBJ, mate the 2 together as if the nut had tightened them. Soak the threads in liquid wrench, now add heat to the nut, this will expand it away from the stud, repeat these steps if you have to. You'll get it, it just sounds like the broke the tapered seats early before the nut was completely off.

[batever]

Again, try jacking the LCA up to the LBJ, mate the 2 together as if the nut had tightened them. Soak the threads in liquid wrench, now add heat to the nut, this will expand it away from the stud, repeat these steps if you have to. You'll get it, it just sounds like the broke the tapered seats early before the nut was completely off.

yeah, and if that doesn't work, throw a c clamp on there too to help force the seats back in together.

[Chrisisiced]

You could also try having someone stand on the rotor and put their hands under the fender and apply as much pressure as possible onto the rotor while you then try to unscrew it..

[XcluziveAZN]

Cut it off and call it a day


that is weird. My LBJ is a bitch to come off i have to hammer it out then press it in with c-clamp and impact wrench

don't forget to take off the retainer ring at the bottom of ball joint

GL

[bcjammerx]

The whole joint isn't spinning...the part that the nut attaches too is a ball in socket joint...like your leg...sorta

it's a ball with a bolt stuck on it...that ball is surrounded by a curved piece of metal...it prevents it from coming out...that piece of metal has a circular hole so the bolt can pivot all around. When new the ball is held in place VERY tightly, so when you turn the nut the bolt/ball don't move.

they take the outter joint, a cylinder with and open end and a rounded end with a smaller round hole, put the rod and ball into it, then seal it from the back.

---() rod and ball
(] joint
(] ---() drop that in and
--(] presto! seal the back and viola

Also, the sides of that rod are angled...wedged /\ ...not that extreme...

As they get old, the ball turning in the joint wears the metal, it gets loose...in this case when he turns the nut, which is rusted on the rod, the rod spins the ball as the joint isn't tight enough to hold the ball. Also, the hole in the knuckle/control arm the wedged rod slide into may also wear...especially from repeated spinning of the rod in the hole...and that can reduce how well it is grabbed in the hole.

So many sexual innuendos...

Your options are...as mentioned...
1. First...do not use grease or use penetrating oil. Or spray it...then come back with brake cleaner after it has set. Spray the assembly with brake cleaners...this well aid the metal in grabbing the rod. Oil will aid it in spinning...Next use a high powered impact while applying pressure...the high speed and impact may shock the nut off and spin it before the joint spins

2. cut the nut off (as mentioned)...though I wouldn't try a saws all, cut the nut only, not the bolt...there isn't much room to try and cut the bolt...cut at an angle with a rotary disk cutting tool..the angle helps you to get the bolt and clear the suspension components...don't worry if you hit the bolt of course...it's trash anyway.