My h22 is breaking up from roughly 700-1100 rpms 1800-2100 rpms and 3500-4000 rpms. This is only once it warms up to regular temp, for the first 15 min of driving it runs fine. It is also idling really low and missing while it idles. It seems that after 4000 rpms everything is fine, and the motor pulls really hard. Its tuned on a p28 hondata s100. Recently I replaced the bends on my downpipe and welded it closer to the oil pan so i would stop crushing them. When the car was tuned, the downpipes were crushed. I dont know if the new downpipe messed with the tune and thats why its breaking up? Or does it seem like an ignition problem?Thanks in advance for the help, its much needed.
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h22a breaking up and missing
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h22a breaking up and missing
ALL PARTS MUST GO
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157038
Link to my turbobuild/members ride
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=110483Tags: None
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anyone?ALL PARTS MUST GO
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157038
Link to my turbobuild/members ride
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=110483
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I don't think the downpipe would have anything to do with it. You say it was dented or crushed? Being crushed would put a kink in it. Somehow tuning with it like that wouldn't make any sense. As far as problems what kind of ignition wires are you running? Sound like the ballpark area I would check first. Distributor, spark plugs
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Originally posted by jchsmiley View PostI don't think the downpipe would have anything to do with it. You say it was dented or crushed? Being crushed would put a kink in it. Somehow tuning with it like that wouldn't make any sense. As far as problems what kind of ignition wires are you running? Sound like the ballpark area I would check first. Distributor, spark plugs
Originally posted by bruno8747 View PostWhat do you mean breaking up? As in sputtering or mis firing?
Could be your tune, or it could be the ignition coil.ALL PARTS MUST GO
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Originally posted by bruno8747 View PostCheck the resistance of the coil. And possibly replace. But does this only happen at a certain RPM?ALL PARTS MUST GO
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157038
Link to my turbobuild/members ride
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=110483
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I put on my buddys distributor today thinking it was the problem and it still missed. Checked the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, everything looks fine. what now?ALL PARTS MUST GO
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http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=110483
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do you still have the p13?
If you still have the p13 plug it in and see if it runs correctly.
If that is not possible/not the problem then see if can at least check for CEL's
After that it sounds like and ignition error like previously stated.
If it was just the lower rpm range then I would suggest cleaning/replacing the IACV but that almost always throws a code...
My suggestion would be to not drive it if possible until you get if figured out
In neutral does it rev "normally" or does it bog when you get on it... If It bogs then I would agree your tps is offLast edited by Ghetto_CB7; 07-25-2008, 02:54 AM.
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Originally posted by Ghetto_CB7 View PostIf you still have the p13 plug it in and see if it runs correctly.
If that is not possible/not the problem then see if can at least check for CEL's
After that it sounds like and ignition error like previously stated.
If it was just the lower rpm range then I would suggest cleaning/replacing the IACV but that almost always throws a code...
My suggestion would be to not drive it if possible until you get if figured out
In neutral does it rev "normally" or does it bog when you get on it... If It bogs then I would agree your tps is offALL PARTS MUST GO
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157038
Link to my turbobuild/members ride
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=110483
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Tps
It might be a little late to state this, sorry I have been busy,
The tps probably wasn't dirty...
First of all for those who do not know what a tps actually is. (and no I don't mean the acronym for throttle positioning sensor...)
A tps is something called a potentiometer which is a fancy name for a variable resister. Essentially as you press on the gas pedal it opens the throttle body butterfly which is attached to the tps.
As the internal part of the tps moves it changes the resistance and thus changes the voltage it sends to the ecu.
The correct voltages should be about .4-.6 Volts at idon (not pressing on the gas)
and about 4.6 V at WOT (wide open throttle)
I am sure there is a thread on this somewhere... If you have more questions please ask or search for the information most likely previously posted
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