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valve lash & oil change = major issues

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    valve lash & oil change = major issues

    So i decided to bring in my car to get the valve lash done, ended up only 2 valves were needed to be ajusted so they did so. I got it back, it sounded great... i waited a week or so to give it an oil change, which i did today, and now that i did that, it almost sounds like i have rod knock, and valve ticking... again.. and it got worse then before... Anyone know what could cause this kind of problem? Am i going to have to get it done again, or do i just wait for the new oil to kinda work its way in there?

    Hopefully someone can help on this.. or else im going to start looking for a new cam, lifters, and everything else associated with the valve lashing.. This just made my week horrible.
    90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
    2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

    #2
    Just deal with the noise. Mine has been noisy ever since I got it.
    wat?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by C91BLX7 View Post
      Just deal with the noise. Mine has been noisy ever since I got it.
      I dont mind dealing with it as long as i know what it is. If something needs to be replaced, and its going to be a big job, im getting an F20B, plain and simple, JDm F20B straight from japan. Local guy has it here, and i really want it, im just not all that keen on doing the swap myself.
      90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
      2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

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        #4
        like extreamly bad?

        when i adjusted the valves myself i forgot to torque one of the adjustment nuts.
        needless to say it came off. My car ticked very bad untill i replaced it. Have the shop recheck it.

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          #5
          Originally posted by EJX_Michael View Post
          like extreamly bad?

          when i adjusted the valves myself i forgot to torque one of the adjustment nuts.
          needless to say it came off. My car ticked very bad untill i replaced it. Have the shop recheck it.
          Like its not "extremly bad" but its worse then earlier today.. after i swapped the oil is when i noticed it ticked louder...
          90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
          2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

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            #6
            Id take it bact to the shop, and demand they recheck it. dont tell them you got the oil changed though. lol.

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              #7
              Originally posted by EJX_Michael View Post
              Id take it bact to the shop, and demand they recheck it. dont tell them you got the oil changed though. lol.
              Demanding isnt a factor here lol.. it was a under the table job from a company i really do trust.. i'll take a quick look under the VC when i get the chance if it gets worse.
              90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
              2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

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                #8
                what type of oil?
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                  #9
                  yeesh thats scary, i would kick myself in the nads if i messed up my internals. its okie it happens to the best of men.

                  could be the type of oil.

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                    #10
                    some of the other guys already said it but if you switched to synthetic oil it will make the tick louder, even if its properly adjusted.

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                      #11
                      It really shouldn't get much louder though. Most likely they did a crap job, specialy if only two were bad. I'd just take some time and learn how to do it yourself. Then you get the peice of mind of knowing that you did it right.

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                        #12
                        just buy the feeler gauges, the angled ones, and do it yourself. Thats what I did when mine was ticking. I now know one more thing about my car and I won't have to pay someone else to do it.

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                        93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                        99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
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                          #13
                          Most likely they measured and adjusted your valve with your engine "HOT" and now your valves are loose when engine is cold. If you first start the car and it is tappind loud and quiets down a little when it gets hot then most likely thats what they did. You got to redo the valve lash adjustment with the engine cold. Overnight cold engine they said is the best.

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                            #14
                            you can also compensate for a hot engine with .002" smaller guages so it would be .008 and .010.
                            I <3 G60.

                            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                            Comment

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