i checked my passenger side brake line and there is fluid everywhere. im not sure exactly from which point its leaking from but i suspect it is since i have a lowe pedal. can any explane to me how to replace it?
Announcement
Collapse
1 of 2
<
>
ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!
Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2
<
>
Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)
Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less
how to remove brake lines?
Collapse
X
-
get under there, clean it all up so there is no brake fluid anywhere, and then pump the brakes a bit and check to see where it is coming from so you know exactly what to replace.
Don't forget to soak the fittings with PB. Those suckers love to strip.
Oh and don't forget to bleed the brakes when you is done
^^click it or ticket^^
Comment
-
i got the haynes manual.. didnt really help me that much, still lost
alone in this game . ::My Ride My Way::
Comment
-
^^ don't clean it down just to pump it again.. you'll have the same mess you started with.
Brake lines are a pain in the butt. I've never done them on our cars but the same goes for everything. Removing the line shouldn't be a problem.. worse comes to worse, you can cut the line with dykes and use vise grips to pull the fitting out. You need to know what size line you need. Both length and what the threads are in the fittings. Also, you need to make sure you have the same end to your line, inlet or bubble flare.
I'm sure if you were to go to a parts store and say.. hey, I need the line for this, any idea what size it is? They may be able to point you in the right direction.
When removing the line, try not to bend it too many different ways. When you are making the new brake line it should look somewhat identical to what you pulled out.
And keep in mind, brke lines are installed before anything else is so you'll need to do some fishing. It's not easy. Haynes can't give you experience.
Comment
-
well i cleaned it down and pumped the brake and couldnt find where it leaked.. im a little confused because i know im leaking fluid since the brake master cylinder keeps losing fluid. ive already replaced it 3 times so i know its not the mc.
plus the hole area near the brake line is covered in brake fluid.Last edited by tear2wo; 06-11-2008, 05:41 PM.
alone in this game . ::My Ride My Way::
Comment
-
be sure to buy a 10mm Flare wrench. That has a little cut-out so it can still go over the brake line and loosen those connections. Trust me, you don't want to strip them w/ normal wrenches otherwise you'd be buying the entire hard line.
And also, if you don't have a friend to help you, buy one of those ONE man bleeder kits for brakelines, it works pretty well and I bled the brakes by myself.
If you need brake lines PM me, i've got an entire set, w/ fronts that are pretty new.
member's ride thread
93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
91 Accord SE 176k
97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents
Comment
-
Yes. buy flare nutwrenches, and not Craftsman ones. Good quality ones. if you buy craftsman ones to save $30, you'll kick yourself the next time you need to replace a hardline for $40 and a hour's labor.
?/?
Is it the softline (from the hardline and mount to the caliper) or the hardline (from the master cylinder in the engine bay to the softline. if it's the softline it's pretty easy and self-expanatory to replace. you'll need an assortment of flathead screwdrivers and pliers to pop free any mounts and retaining clips, flare nut wrenches to remove the softline from the hardline and to hold the hardline in place (prevent from twisting), remove the soft line from the brake caliper. throw your new soft lines in, attach everything up, overfill your master cylinder, open all four bleeder valves and don't close them until they start dripping (each one individually) this is called gravity bleeding. after this it's a simple 2 man job of slowly pumping the brake pedal down with the bleeder closed, holding pressure, and having your helper crack the bleeder open and then close it as the flow stops. when you have no air bubbles and clean fluid, move on to the next. You want to work from the farthest caliper/drum from the master cylinder in, so rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver. button it up and cross your fingers.
Comment
Comment