A few months ago I tried to adjust my valves to lower the noise level of the engine. I don't think the previous owners ever had the valvez adjusted. I was only able to adjust one valve; the little adjustment screws were seized on the other ones I tried adjusting. And I was starting to strip out the screw heads so I stopped and put it back together. My question is, is there anything I can safely spray onto those adjustment screws to loosen them up, without having it contaminate the oil or fall into the engine?
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"The fault-finder will find faults even in paradise. Love your life, poor as it is. You may perhaps have some pleasant, thrilling, glorious hours, even in a poorhouse."-Henry David Thoreau -
pb blaster, wd 40 and all that shit is all petroleum based so it wouldnt matter. plus, you are suppsoed to loosen the nut first before the screw head. -
Yeah I do loosen the nut first. But after that the screws are still stuck, like they're melted on. That's why I believed they had never been adjusted.
"The fault-finder will find faults even in paradise. Love your life, poor as it is. You may perhaps have some pleasant, thrilling, glorious hours, even in a poorhouse."-Henry David ThoreauComment
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Did you have each cylinder at TDC individually before you tried adjusting them?
Because if the spring was compressed (valve open) you won't be able to turn the screws, due to the load pushing up on them.
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wd40 eats oil- ithink. used to use it to clean stuff
you'll love my nuts!Comment
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yeah turn your crank pully to make cyl. 1 at TDC (the UP mark or Arrow is pointing perpendicular with respect to the cylinder head). then adjust the valve .010" intake valve, .012" exhaust valve, then turn it 180* and then adjust cyl 3. then turn the crank 180* and cyl 4, and then finally 180* and cyl 2. It took me 3 hrs my first time so don't worry if you work slow.
It goes 1-3-4-2.
you're supposed to have a box end 10mm wrench twisting the nut off while you have a flat head on top holding the placement of the screw.
And do this when your engine is COLD, like at least 5hrs cold.
Also I would get the ANGLED feeler gauges, otherwise it'll be difficult w/ just straight feeler gauges.
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just to clarifi what losiracer said.
turn the crank 180 degrees. Dont turn the crank until the cam is 180 degrees.
when the "up" mark on the cam is straight up and down and the two side sprockets are perpendicular with the head, your numbe rone cylinder is at tdc.
When the "up" mark is 90* to the left, number 3 is at tdc.
and when it is upside down, number 4 is at tdc, and when it is 90* to the right your last cylinder, 4 is at tdc.
I forgot to do this when i did my valves my first time. I even got my valve cover on and everything. Haha so make sure you adjust each valve
^^click it or ticket^^Comment
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It also happened to me after using that valvoline long life oil. I guessed it seized-up the nut on the adjusting screw. I ended up replacing them all by taking off all the rocker arms and cutting the adjusting screw off from the nut so that I can unscrew the remaining nut off the rocker arm. Doing this give me also the opportunity to replace my lower spark plug tube seals/o-ring since it will going to be exposed by taking off the rocker arms...
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