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bolt screwed up, really bad situation.

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    bolt screwed up, really bad situation.

    So, i went shoping for some stuff, and came across what looks like some decently new rear shocks. I already got one on the car, the other one is on my work bench.
    The bolt got caught in the bushing, and i couldnt get it out, i had to take a sawzall to it. So now im left with nothing to grab on to, and i already tried an Easy out extractor on the bolt, its not working. does anyone know if there is an aftermarket bolt and nut kit for these cars since its known to screw up like this, or am i going to need a new rear shock, and swap the spring/mount?
    90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
    2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

    #2
    any pics man? i'm having a hard time picturing this in my head.

    Comment


      #3
      digital is down... sorry.
      The nut that is "welded" on the rear strut, where it bolts into the lower knuckle is all messed up. I had to cut the bolt at the junkyard so i could take it, but the strut is all fucked up now. I cant get the old bolt out, and im going to have to cut it off (tried drilling it out, and missed the center, nailed the threads) Is there a similar grade 10 suspension bolt and nut i can use for this, or am i screwed and have to get a new rear shock?
      Last edited by js593; 05-18-2008, 10:23 AM.
      90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
      2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

      Comment


        #4
        Here are the pics requested.


        On the left, is the stock OEM nut on the STOCK shock.
        The nut i am holding on the right is the MONROE REPLACEMENT shock nut (i matched it up to another nut, and grabbed a couple at the store)
        Big difference eh?
        Now wtf am i supposed to do. I have my uncle telling me no way in hell should that go there (he is a fully certified mechanic), and other's saying it will be fine, and seeing replacement shocks with those.
        Its a Nylon intert nut, the new shock comes with 2 of them. They fit the bolt without any problem, so im kinda confused on what im supposed to do now.

        Any help would be nice guys.
        90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
        2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

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          #5
          it should work fine,on my grand am when i changed the struts i stripped the bolts and baught new nuts that looked just like those
          93 SE F22A6

          Comment


            #6
            I had this same problem with my rear passengers side lower strut bolt. The head broke off, I was able to get the shock off, but the broken bolt wouldn't come out of the bushing... I tried and tried, with no luck. I ended up having to get a new rear hub

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              #7
              Bust off or drill out the existing nut and stick a new bolt in there with a new nut...it'll be fine.

              All the force is on the bolt, in shear. The nut just stops the bolt from leaving.
              2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
              Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
              1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

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                #8
                Used the pre-existing bolt with a new Nylion insert nut and washer. worked perfectly without any issues. Everything's cool now, going to help out my buddy and his shitvic.
                90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
                2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Question before i take off.
                  last year (just before winter) i got some rear upper control arms with the ball joints, and already the boots have torn wide open. Anyone else know what could cause that? Im thinking of warrantying it no matter what they say, the ball joint is now on its way out, and the bushing at the fender well is starting to go as well.... Ive never seen bushings and boots go so quickly..
                  90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
                  2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

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