13.7MPG, and still at it!

[js593]

Haha, this is great, so i got my VC gasket and everything, go to pull out my new plugs, and WHAM, they look like iriduiums packaged wrong!!!! Haha, I love it, Iridiums for half the price.

[Losiracer2]

Haha, this is great, so i got my VC gasket and everything, go to pull out my new plugs, and WHAM, they look like iriduiums packaged wrong!!!! Haha, I love it, Iridiums for half the price.

lol, just make sure they're the RIGHT kind of iridium plugs for your car. IE: not too cold or not too hot of a plug.

[bcjammerx]

why use mystery oil? Wasting money by doing that...just D&F the oil...and stop using seafoam (except for 15000 mile maintenance) If there is anything in there it'll simply burn out.

Don't waste your money on higher octane...it does you no good unless you are running high compressions...since you are not knocking there is no reason to pay more for gas.

Also...on plugs...just get OEM replacement...anything else is a waste of money for a stock f22

[js593]

why use mystery oil? Wasting money by doing that...just D&F the oil...and stop using seafoam (except for 15000 mile maintenance) If there is anything in there it'll simply burn out.

Don't waste your money on higher octane...it does you no good unless you are running high compressions...since you are not knocking there is no reason to pay more for gas.

Also...on plugs...just get OEM replacement...anything else is a waste of money for a stock f22

I know its somewhat minor, but i have an intake, and exhaust header + high flow exhaust, i was told because of this, i need a slightly better plug, to make sure the engine can keep up or w/e
Something about the spark plug giving off too much heat when im ramming more air into there. Wierd.. but i have a technical data sheet from NGK on the subject....

[js593]

Well, the VC gasket is holding, i have better sounding engine now. I pulled my IACV, and it was caked with shit in the filter, so i grabbed my spare that i cleaned out, and had some issues at first, but after i let it warm up, it seems fine. The idle however seems to still be a bit high. Anyone know what could cause high idle even at warm (sitting at 1K-1050RPM warm) I dont wanna try and ajust it, but here is what happened when i swapped my IACV.

Swapped it, bolted it up.
started engine
Engine was running rough, almost like it wanted to stall out
engine was a bit shaky as well
If you hit the gas, and let it come down, its like it would stall, but it would save itself... (if that makes sence)

All the issues went away after taking it for a quick run, so im kinda at a loss here, anyone know what could be going on?

Thanks

[Mjfan12]

my gas light isn't working, probably burnt out so I can't risk letting it run on E to get accurate data on fuel consumption.

Need to replace the light, or carry 2 gallon of fuel in the trunk in case i run out.

I am calculating it based on how many gallons i put in, and then dividing how far I got with those gallons.

I usually put in half a tank, once a week and can squeeze our 270 kms. Im getting approximately 24mpg.

I wish I could get 30 like some people here.

[Markus]

Well, the VC gasket is holding, i have better sounding engine now. I pulled my IACV, and it was caked with shit in the filter, so i grabbed my spare that i cleaned out, and had some issues at first, but after i let it warm up, it seems fine. The idle however seems to still be a bit high. Anyone know what could cause high idle even at warm (sitting at 1K-1050RPM warm) I dont wanna try and ajust it, but here is what happened when i swapped my IACV.

Swapped it, bolted it up.
started engine
Engine was running rough, almost like it wanted to stall out
engine was a bit shaky as well
If you hit the gas, and let it come down, its like it would stall, but it would save itself... (if that makes sence)

All the issues went away after taking it for a quick run, so im kinda at a loss here, anyone know what could be going on?

Thanks

it's normal to run like shit for a bit. u can adjust the idle screw and reset the ecu

[Losiracer2]

Well, the VC gasket is holding, i have better sounding engine now. I pulled my IACV, and it was caked with shit in the filter, so i grabbed my spare that i cleaned out, and had some issues at first, but after i let it warm up, it seems fine. The idle however seems to still be a bit high. Anyone know what could cause high idle even at warm (sitting at 1K-1050RPM warm) I dont wanna try and ajust it, but here is what happened when i swapped my IACV.

Swapped it, bolted it up.
started engine
Engine was running rough, almost like it wanted to stall out
engine was a bit shaky as well
If you hit the gas, and let it come down, its like it would stall, but it would save itself... (if that makes sence)

All the issues went away after taking it for a quick run, so im kinda at a loss here, anyone know what could be going on?

Thanks

its an electronic valve, so the ECU is probably figuring it out, so once air has gone through the valve, it knows how much to open/close etc. Its normal, mine did that when I cleaned mine too which was caked. Probably b/c of the restriction before, it was compensating by opening the valve more....now that it's clean, since the valve was open more, it had to adjust.

[js593]

Tomorrow im going to attempt to set my idle properly, I have the info sheet in front of me

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m.../400/6-207.pdf

And i was wondering just a few things

Does the car need to be Fully warmed up when doing this
If you dont have a manual tach, will the one on the dash work fine wih a 2nd person watching?
When you reset the ECU, will it automatically go to normal idle, or will it simulate a cold idle, then drop down to warm speed?


When i was driving one morning, i noticed that my tach didnt move, then all the sudden a couple minutes later, WHAM, the tach (not the motor) goes to redline, and then comes down to idle speed. Ever since then, my idle has been out of wack. Could this be caused by something else other then just an idle ajustment thats required, or is this the aftermath of cleaning out the FITV, EACV, TB, and the manifold?

[js593]

Ttt

[js593]

I just removed my ECU, and swapped it for another PT3 from the JY off an A4, all idle issue is gone, and it doesnt run rough anymore... WTF?

[Losiracer2]

how's your mileage now after the ECU swap?

[js593]

how's your mileage now after the ECU swap?

Havent checked yet. Ive idled the car a bit, and it seems alot better, no more shaky at park or neutral, and stop in drive, it seems a little more "solid". Ive idled the car about 4-5 hours, and drove 89 KM, and i only went down a quarter tank, but that was mainly with the old ECU. One of the capacitors was ready to explode everywhere, and another one of the little black things (has 3 prongs), one of the prongs was black, so i figured, shit if this is why im getting bad milage, i should be good now. time will tell i guess.

[js593]

Well... i just went to our weekly cruise night, put on around 70 clicks on the accord, and barely used any gas (on the gauge)... it moved maybe 1 milimeter... (litterally) I was at 3/4 tank on friday, and im now down to half, with 172 on the odometer so far, and 1/2 tank to go, (including the 4+ hours of idling) i would say thats pretty good? Now im just waiting to get my Fan timer unit from someone on the boards, so i should be set by friday the 23rd. After that, i start working on the body, and working on the suspension.

Finally... a car that runs right.

[bcjammerx]

I usually get about 200 at half a tank but I don't idle for very long, sounds good to me.