ive looked it up and cant seem to find whats causing my no spark problem. first i had no spark to only one cylinder but now its not getting spark to any of them. ive replaced all the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. ive even tried changing the ignitor but i still dont have any spark. is there a way to test the internal coil? i cant find anything on how to test it.
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Ignition Coil? Test it.
1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX
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Originally posted by DarkShadow707
ummm thats what i was woundering how to do. i cant find anywhere how to test the internal coil. only can find tests for the external coil.Comment
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There's a certain resistance that the coil is supposed to provide which you can test with a multimeter... I don't remember the spec, it's something like 15-18k ohms... but don't take my word for it. If you haven't already, you should get a haynes manual for your car at your local auto parts store... they've got the testing proceedure and specs described in there.1991 Accord LX, 2Dr, 5 Spd, P12 ECU, Ebay Short Ram, Megan 4-2-1, Full 2.25" Ebay Exhaust + 60 Series Flowmaster.
1987 Camaro IROC-Z/28, 350 Crate, 700R4, 2.73 Posi, Edelbrock 1406, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Summit Headers, 3" Catco Cat, 3" Hooker Cat-back, Pioneer DEH-7800 HU, 600W Pioneer Amp, 350W 10" Pioneer Sub + 6 Pioneer Speakers.Comment
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ive got a book and it has tests for external coils but says on the models with the internal coils there are no serviceable parts in the distributor. it says if the coil are found to be defective then it will be necessary to replace the entire distributor housing. but thats all it says, it dosent give the procedure on how to test the internal coil.Originally posted by ChillPhatCat
this is the h22 im having problems with not the f22.Last edited by jrlavey; 03-08-2008, 01:03 AM.Comment
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Hit a junkyard. Pick up 2 coils, and 2 igniters. Mess around with combinations to see what works.
Internal coils are easily replaceable. I'm an idiot when it comes to ignition components, and I managed to do it with no problem.
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Ignition Coil Test (Fuel-Injected Engine)
1. With the ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor cap.
2. Remove the 2 screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from the terminals A and B respectively.
3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within specifications.
NOTE: Resistance will vary with coil temperature; specs are at 20*C (70*F)
Primary Winding Resistance (Between the A and B terminals):
0.6 - 0.8 ohms
Secondary Winding Resistance (Between and A and secondary winding terminals):
12,880 - 19,320 ohmsLast edited by demortey@mac.co; 03-09-2008, 11:16 PM.Comment
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Igniter Unit Input Test
1. Remove the distributor cap, the rotor, and the leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU wires from the igniter unit.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check the voltage between the BLK/YEL and the body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire across the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is voltage go to step 4.
4. Check the voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no battery voltage, check the ignition coil and WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/WHT wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tach and the igniter unit.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit.
Hope this helps....
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