New from OKC

[Broo42]

My name is Dustin and I'm from OKC. I recently bought a 93 EX with the A6 and 5 speed as a daily. After driving it a little bit and enjoying the car, I've decided to fix most of its issues and possibly modify it. I've been a domestic(Mopar) guy my whole life and recently got hooked. I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota R/T with a 408 and a built transmission that I race occasionally. My old DD was an 04 SRT4...until I destroyed the transmission. Which is the main reason why I bought the Accord.

Anyways, it does have a ton of minor issues. It has an estimated 210+ miles. The speedo/odo stopped working at 189,500. The leather interior is pretty bad. Both passenger windows and AC don't work. It has rust on all 4 corners. (Odd for an Oklahoma car). It leaks oil like crazy and has a massive exhaust leak. I'm slowly fixing things as I get the money.

The day after I bought it, I replaced the front struts, coils, tie rod ends, upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, and all 4 tires.

I'm currently using the search function for mod ideas. It's my understanding that the F22s are closed deck with steel sleeve cylinders. Is this correct? I may have a buddy build me a turbo setup next spring....and couple it with an H23 trans.

[Jarrett]

Welcome to the forum, Dustin!

Yes, the block does have iron-lined cylinders, but the block is not a closed deck. Still no issue supporting 350whp, in most cases. Your weak link in the case of your F22A will be the pistons. They do not hold up well to boost and will quickly fail. Tuning has come a long way in the past few years and a good setup (i.e., Hondata S300 v3 or AEM EMS 2) would be able to run the thing nearly flawlessly for a while, but eventually the pressures would get to the pistons and cause ring lands to crack. With as cheap as these engines are, and as easily as a replacement can be built, maybe that's not an issue for you. Turbo your current one, build a fresh one on the side with upgraded pistons and replace it when the current one goes.

The disclaimer:

This also assumes an otherwise healthy engine with good compression, seals, plugs, timing, fluids and properly-sized injectors. It also isn't feasible for everyone. Your situation might require you to build before installing a turbocharger if you can't afford the downtime.

Either way, replace the maintenance items that need attention first. It's 2016 so these things are pretty old now. Most people new to this chassis tire quickly of being told to do the responsible things before the fun things, but that's just the nature of the best now. If you want a car that doesn't have countless places that it shows its age, go buy a car off of a lot.

Anyway, welcome aboard! Searching through Google with your search query followed by "site:cb7tuner.com" tends to yield better results.

[Broo42]

I have a buddy that does a lot of our local Honda tuning. He and I talked about doing a low boost setup until it dies. But I think I might stick to N/A if the modding actually goes anywhere.

I read that long thread about modding the F22A from 2007. It was extremely informative. For now, I'm going to get all of the maintenance stuff out of the way. One of the oil leaks is from the distributor seal. I hear that's a common issue.

I tried swapping speedos but the one I swapped with didn't work, either. Every other gauge works and lights up but the needles don't. Could this be a short in the cluster?

When I have the exhaust redone, I'm going to ditch the cat. Is there a muffler or muffler/resonator combo that'll keep it from sounding like a kazoo?

I guess instead of asking more questions, I'll utilize the search feature some more.

[Jarrett]

I have a buddy that does a lot of our local Honda tuning. He and I talked about doing a low boost setup until it dies. But I think I might stick to N/A if the modding actually goes anywhere.

First I would find out how credible his work really is. If it passes, then I would plan to use the EMS he's more comfortable with.

I tried swapping speedos but the one I swapped with didn't work, either. Every other gauge works and lights up but the needles don't. Could this be a short in the cluster?

Very likely. It's also likely that there is a VSS issue. Check the wiring for the vehicle speed sensor on top of the transmission. If that's good, Try swapping it with a known good one or performing the test procedure in the video. You can just turn the wheel on the car and not worry about removing the sensor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annota...&v=G1XzwZE6n8M

When I have the exhaust redone, I'm going to ditch the cat. Is there a muffler or muffler/resonator combo that'll keep it from sounding like a kazoo?

There is next to zero reason to remove the catalytic converter. It's the first thing that people want to do because it's cheap, but there are almost no gains to be had from doing so. The only reasons ditching the factory cat would be worth it are if your current one is bad (in which case I would buy a replacement) or you are upgrading to a collector size and exhaust piping diameter that exceeds your current cat size. Even still, there are high-flow aftermarket ones available.

[Broo42]

I trust his work. He's done dozens of cars locally.

I originally thought the speed sensor was bad. Changed it and didn't change anything. So I'm working my way down the line to find out what's wrong.

The cat that's on there is trashed. Not to mention, most of the exhaust is rusted out. I'm just tossing ideas around in my head.

[Fleetw00d]

Some of my Accords have had corrosion problems on the printed circuit board in the gage cluster that has negatively affected one or more of the gages. Get a wiring diagram to identify the VSS pins at the lower left gage cluster connector, raise a wheel in the air and rotate it and see if you get an alternating 0 - 5 - 0 - 5 volt signal to the cluster.

[Broo42]

Good call. I'll give that a try this weekend. Thank you.

[tommi]

welcome fellow midwestern cb7 owner!

[Broo42]

welcome fellow midwestern cb7 owner!

Thank you!