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My 93 Sedan

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    #1

    My 93 Sedan

    Here is my 93 Accord. About 260k on the clock. 10k on f23 block and A6 head. Definitely needs some TLC but it will do as my daily for now.





    Just some pictures of my 8th for fun



    What it looks like now with the Sparco's.
    Tags: None
    #2
    If I were you I would put an H23A1 intake manifold on there. At the very least an F22A6 manifold. That extra displacement could really use the additional air for the midrange.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

    Comment

      #3
      Nice red valve cover.

      Was the F23 block used to replace a blown F22A1? Also why did you do the P/S bypass?
      Last edited by wildBill83; 11-20-2012, 12:55 PM.

      Comment

        #4
        I'll have to take a look into it. I bought the car with swap already done and I'm new the F Series and single cams in general. Eventually I'd like to do boost it or do the H swap but that's after cosmetic and suspension is done. Right now I just need it to get me though the winter. Couple question though;

        1. Valve train seems a little noisy. Is this normal for these motors or should I take a look and possibly do an adjustment?

        2. Front driver window doesn't roll up right. It goes up about 3/4 of the way then starts to push out like it off track somehow. Couldn't find much on this, any particular common culprit here?

        3. What are the wheel limitations without modifications? Curious because I have winter tread in 17's that I'd like to throw on it.
        Last edited by Thormx353; 11-20-2012, 12:55 PM.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
          Nice red valve cover.

          Was the F23 block used to replace a blown F22A1?

          I think it was just a experimental build. Guy was a on the road diesel mechanic with a 1000tq Cummins. He said used it for long drives for work. Didn't really have a chance to discuss details about why he did it.

          Comment

            #6
            Ah, so you bought the car you mentioned in this thread:
            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=195327



            I thought it had an H23 IM already?

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
              Ah, so you bought the car you mentioned in this thread:
              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=195327



              I thought it had an H23 IM already?
              Yes I did.

              Is that not it? (I wouldn't know the difference lol). I've been driving it a lot the last few weeks, no problems so far.

              Comment

                #8
                Looks like F22A1 IM to me, small plenum and single runners with no IAB.

                EDIT:
                Now that I'm looking at it closer that is an H23, the vacuum lines on the side give it away. The plenum is larger than it looks.
                Can you get a better photo of the IM? Does it have the IAB plate? It doesn't look like it.

                If you have the IAB, is it gutted? I believe you have an F22A1 ECU with no IAB control.
                Last edited by wildBill83; 11-20-2012, 01:19 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  I thought the picture may have made it look small than it is, and I googled the H23 manifold and it looks pretty similar. I'll get a better picture of it after work today.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    If you could, try and take it of more off to the side. I'm having trouble seeing if there is an IAB, but I don't see the vacuum lines to control it either. If you get a chance get an IAB from an H22/3 or F22A6 and the P06 ECU. Like Jarrett said (maybe in the other thread) you will gain low end torque.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Valve trains on these are noisy. So are the injectors. But doing a valve job is an easy thing to do and is something I would do almost immediately after buying someone's project. The factory specs are to run .010" of clearance on the intake valves and .012" on the exhaust side. I try to run them ever so slightly tighter (-.001 off of each) to control noise. I've never had a problem doing this but your mileage may vary.

                      Edit from earlier*
                      Yeah, I guess it's at least got the H22/H23 plenum, but it looks like he's disabled the IABs. Find out what ECU you're running and we can give you solid recommendations on how to proceed from there.
                      Last edited by Jarrett; 11-20-2012, 02:24 PM.
                      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Here the pics you guys requested.





                        Has a P12 ECU in it right now. Guy gave me another ECU with the car. Looks like a P14?



                        Comment

                          #13
                          Any thoughts guys?

                          Comment

                            #14
                            That's definitely an H23/H22 plenum and it looks like the IAB plate was removed entirely. If I were you then I would go get an IAB plate and controller from a junkyard from an F22A6/H22/H23 and install that. It will be a bit of work to wire it up and then P12 will be of no use to you. But technically, the P12 is not the proper ECU for what you have right now anyway. There really isn't one. To do this the right way you'll need a chippable ECU like a P06 and have the IAB hardware added to the ECU. Then have it all tuned specifically for your car. My guess is that you'd be able to make a decent amount of power and even more torque with that setup.

                            And...if you were to do that you could technically eliminate the EGR hardware as well since the P06 doesn't look for it. I only say that because you have a MAP sensor already installed on top of the throttle body. With the correct plug off of almost any OBD2 Honda from a junkyard that can be utilized instead of the one inside the black box on the firewall. The things inside the black box are EGR, charcoal canister hardware, and the factory MAP sensor. With those two things removed the charcoal canister becomes trivial and then the whole box can be removed. It would clean up the engine bay which is what it seems like you're going for.

                            Typically I wouldn't volunteer a lot of this information because it just makes people ask a ton of questions and get into something way over their head. But I just wanted to put the possibilities out there. The information is covered on this forum so if you want to find out more just search on here.
                            My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                              That's definitely an H23/H22 plenum and it looks like the IAB plate was removed entirely. If I were you then I would go get an IAB plate and controller from a junkyard from an F22A6/H22/H23 and install that. It will be a bit of work to wire it up and then P12 will be of no use to you. But technically, the P12 is not the proper ECU for what you have right now anyway. There really isn't one. To do this the right way you'll need a chippable ECU like a P06 and have the IAB hardware added to the ECU. Then have it all tuned specifically for your car. My guess is that you'd be able to make a decent amount of power and even more torque with that setup.

                              And...if you were to do that you could technically eliminate the EGR hardware as well since the P06 doesn't look for it. I only say that because you have a MAP sensor already installed on top of the throttle body. With the correct plug off of almost any OBD2 Honda from a junkyard that can be utilized instead of the one inside the black box on the firewall. The things inside the black box are EGR, charcoal canister hardware, and the factory MAP sensor. With those two things removed the charcoal canister becomes trivial and then the whole box can be removed. It would clean up the engine bay which is what it seems like you're going for.

                              Typically I wouldn't volunteer a lot of this information because it just makes people ask a ton of questions and get into something way over their head. But I just wanted to put the possibilities out there. The information is covered on this forum so if you want to find out more just search on here.
                              The IAB plate isn't removed

                              if it was then what do you explain to be the little springy piece in this picture below the ghetto vacuum looped thing

                              Comment

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