My 92 4dr ex intro thread, some bad ass stuff in here... modestly speaking

[HondaBob]

Hi, I am Honda Bob. I am a tuner in the cleveland ohio area. I work with the guys from Big 3 Racing, and I dedicate this build to them. They helped me out with a lot of stuff, including shop space, tools, and moral support.

This is my 92 accord ex build. I am about as diehard of a honda guy as they come, but I've never had an accord untill now. I needed a winter beater bad, and I picked this car up for 200 bucks with a blown head gasket, and that is all I knew of at the time. The car had 208k on it. After getting it, and putting a head gasket on it, I further inspected the vehicle to find it needed new trailing arm bushings, rear brakes (the one rotor was cut off the hub), upper and lower ball joints, stab link bushings, trans (no 3rd gear), clutch, egr control solenoid, o2 sensor, and quarter panels. All of that is no big deal at all... The real problem is, I cannot leave well enough alone.


I have fixed about everything except for the rot, and made the car safe. At the same time, I realized the car needed more power, b/c it was terribly slow. My other project car (race car) is a 400+ whp sohc civic. (35psi off a borg warner gm8, no joke) This car was a complete dog, but I fixed that.


This is about the best whole car pic i have right now.


I definatly went turbo with the build. I picked up a ported evo3 16g, manifold, o2housing, heat shield and j pipe for 90 bucks, Every bolt hole on the turbo was stripped out, and the manifold had a couple cracks, but all that was fixed.

When I went turbo, I decided I was not looking for the biggest hp number b/c I have my civic. I did want torque though. I also wanted the shortest charge piping possible to keep lag to a very minimum. I ended up using a ford turbo coupe intercooler and placed it where the battery goes. I relocated the battery to infront of the passanger tire, and made a battery tray out of angle iron. Here are a couple pics.





The engine bay, after first boosting...


With the intercooler where it was, I needed to get air to it. I am planning on going to an evo style cf hood in the future, but untill I do, I did this...

This was my first TIG welding project. I learned on this hood.

I could not match the paint at all, so I went for some contrast. I love the VHT flame proof ceramic paint, Its like a satin color with a little bit of shiny grain to it, like sand paper. Its hard to describe, but its not just plain ole flat black.


On the tabs that go inward, I'm going to get vynl made up that says Turobcharged for the driver side, and INTERCOOLED for the passanger side.

I replaced the trans with a good ex 5speed, and installed a new flywheel and Spec stage 3 clutch, rated for 360 ft/lbs of torque.
I highly reccomend spec. They hold up. I origonally installed a centerforce dual friction, but the bitch would not disengage at all. I returned the clutch at summit racing (i live 40 minutes away) for another centerforce dual friction clutch, thinking it was a fluke, and it too would not disengage. At that point, I swore off centerforce, because I had to remove the clutch a 3rd time, pulling the trans a second time unnecessarily. I ended up springing for the spec, and im glad I did. It has great engagement, and its not too rough. My whole goal for this car was to maintain stock driveability, just with more power.





I then headed to the egr box. I raped the shit out of it, removing the internals and replacing the guts with a omni power 4bar map sensor and a MAC ebc solenoid (fuck AEM, they sell this solenoid for 90 bux. We did the research, found the part number, and picked it up from a local MAC distributor for 13 dollars.)

[HondaBob]

Now for my absolute favorite part of this build, My Exhaust. Again, I wanted to maintain 100% stock drivability... But at the same time, I wanted to put some numbers down at the track. I ended up thinking of the cutout. It was made of scrap piping laying around, and turned out amazing. I have a 2.5" downpipe (made before the cutout) going to a 3" pipe. In the middle of the cutout pipe, I have the stock 2" exhaust with cat spliced in. I have the 3" pipe running under the car, and it spits out right behind the passanger front tire, with a block off plate. When the plate is on, the car runs stock exhaust, and I cannot hear the engine running when driving down the road... how it should be stock. With the plate off, Its balls to the wall. I love it.




I know the exhaust flow from the downpipe to the stock exhaust is far less than ideal, but again.. I dont care. I just want it quiet for when I'm not at the track.

The car is running off of eCtune in a po6 ecu modified for ebc, iab, and 0-5v o2 datalogging,

On 9 psi (all the stock exhaust could flow) the accord put down 180whp and 220wtq on a mustang dyno. On open downpipe at 15psi, (at the time it was before the side exit, the 2.5" downpipe cut right after the o2 bung, witch was right after a 2" flex section) the accord put down 240whp and 270 wtq.



On the dyno, It ran a 13.8@101... with a 1.7 60'...

The 60' was not realistic. So far, on low boost, the car has posted a 15.03 @94mph with a 2.3 60 ft. I have no high boost runs in yet, due to mixed up electronic boost control settings.

This is my favorite part of eCtune.. Antilag.

(sorry for the low quality, cell phone for the lose)

Most would be pretty happy with this, however I'll reiterate that I cannot leave well enough alone.

With the DSM turbo mod, you need to remove the front torque mount. You do need this mount, and I did not want to see it go, but boost won in that arguement. To compensate for the lack of a mount, and to keep wheel hop to a minimum, I made an extra mount. It replaces the cross member support bar, and It now bolts right up without any modifications to the crossmember or engine, its basicly a bolt on situation.



With the new mount, I noticed an instant improvement in traction, and the over all feel of mashing the throttle was much improved. I didn't feel the engine slopping around in the engine bay any more.

While datalogging some high boost pulls, I seen my intake air temps were climbing pretty high. After a pull or two, the intake temps were close to the 220*f range... The intercooler is just not large enough. Since I already commited to cutting my hood up, I couldn't run a front mount. I will not support any exterior mods that do not have a purpose.

So, the logical step would be Meth Injection. I do not see a need to pay 300+ for a meth injection kit when I can make one myself. I found some Jeep Liberty FFV injectors layin around, witch will stand up to the methanol, and made some bosses for the charge piping,


(I love my newly acquired tig welding skills...)




When I researched the Snow meth kits, they use a 150psi pump and one nozzle. With my kit, I used a factory honda pump, fuel pressure regulator, return line, made my own "fuel rail", and 3 injectors. The meth pressure will be in the 50psi range, and with 3 injectors, it should be comparable flow (atleast thats what I figured out in my head, lol). I also have each injector setup to fire individually, depending on engine conditions. The injector before the intercooler will fire at 3psi, WOT. The second injector will fire at 10PSI, WOT. The third injector will only fire if intake air temps get above 150*. I honestly haven't had a chance to tune this on the dyno yet, but best believe I will have some dyno charts and a video up when I do.

As for a tank, We used an old hydraulic pump case, modified to bolt a factory honda fuel pump sending unit to it... witch as also been modified.

Here's some more DIY meth injection pics...





Thats about all I have right now, but stay tuned. I ended up aquiring a wristpin knock (maybe) when I was trying to get my boost controller settings to work at the track. I spiked 18psi while antilagging, popped the head gasket, and the knock was heard as soon as I installed a new head gasket and ARP's. I now have an f22b sitting on the ground in the garage, and sometime next week its going in, along with the meth injection tuning and 20psi. I'm expecting 300+whp, and 320+wtq. We'll see, but when I do, I will post up some new pic's and videos.

I appreciate any comments, and I will answer any questions you guys may have.

-Bob-

[PointBlank]

Very, very nice. I've never seen a battery relocation like that one. I'll definatley be checking up on this thread.

Welcome

[gloryaccordy]

Hey man

First of all nice build

Second of all did u fill the rest of ur mounts... I filled them and did away w/my first mount. I used McMasters 94A. Power transfer and handling improved significantly (at the expense of a little idle vibration... u could prob tune that out). Best $30 or w/e I ever spent. The extra mount is cool but filling the mounts would solidify ur front end

Also what suspension are u running???

[toysruskid]

Nice work, I love seeing DIY projects

[rickyduckworth]

cool

can't tell in the pics, but you'll add some hp by venting the bottom area of the IC into the fender well unless you modified the airbox hole to do that


also, i got about 11hp to the wheels from painting my black top mount IC WHITE. they're heat soaks when they're black and if you'll strip it to the metal then put single coat of white it will help keep it cooler

for some reason, ford and mitsubishi both went with black paint on all their top mounts and it's horrible

awesome project though, bet you had a ton of fun

[HondaBob]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Hey man

First of all nice build

Second of all did u fill the rest of ur mounts... I filled them and did away w/my first mount. I used McMasters 94A. Power transfer and handling improved significantly (at the expense of a little idle vibration... u could prob tune that out). Best $30 or w/e I ever spent. The extra mount is cool but filling the mounts would solidify ur front end

Also what suspension are u running???

I again wanted to keep the stock drivability of the accord. I wanted to keep any extra vibration out and to a minimum, and know how filled mounts work. Its a constant struggle for me not to fill all 4 of them, lol. Its just that with 200,000+ miles on it, I can almost gaurantee something inside the car will start to squeek, buzz, rattle.

As for suspension, I'm running completley stock 200k stuff. lol. It rides so nice... but handles like a brick compared to the civic's im used to driving. If I do anything with the suspension (likley) Its going to be some TEIN High Tech lowering springs on KYB Gr2's.

I keep reiterating the main goal of my car is to keep every creature comfort possible. If I dont, then it may as well be a race car... And as soon as a project car turns into a race car in my head, the budget is completley blown and I just go nuts. As of right now, I'm still on budget with 1100 invested into the whole project, including the car. My "out" to myself is, This is a budget build... Nothing has to be 100% sweet or show quality. I figured the right people will appreciate this build.

cool

can't tell in the pics, but you'll add some hp by venting the bottom area of the IC into the fender well unless you modified the airbox hole to do that


also, i got about 11hp to the wheels from painting my black top mount IC WHITE. they're heat soaks when they're black and if you'll strip it to the metal then put single coat of white it will help keep it cooler

for some reason, ford and mitsubishi both went with black paint on all their top mounts and it's horrible

awesome project though, bet you had a ton of fun

I thought about venting that area, I just did not see any benifit to cutting up the car in that corner with the battery underneith it. What I am pondering on doing is making an air box for the turbo inlet that forces air to be drawn through the intercooler. I'm just not sure if the trade off of the air flow through the intercooler is going to be worth the restriction and increased temprature before the turbo.

I did try to focus the air flow by sealing the intercooler to the vents in the hood.
Its just been off in the newer pictures with the meth installed b/c it was in my way at the time.

As for painting it white, I would.. but I really like the way the black looks. I got meth to help me cope now. lol. I honestly doubt that any color is going to really help me out. The intercooler will actually smoke during a pull (you can see it in the dyno pull video) Thats why I say f-it, and im keeping it black, just spraying meth.

Again, thanks for all the imput guys.

[rgsh22accord]

nice looking project u got going on

[ibr_adam09]

this is one scary looking accord,

one bad ass sleeper for sure.

are you going to do anything about the dirty engine bay and rust all around the car ?

its seams that everything ( suspension wise ) needs to be replaced

my eye is on this thread for sure

[rickyduckworth]

Thanks for the comments guys.



I again wanted to keep the stock drivability of the accord. I wanted to keep any extra vibration out and to a minimum, and know how filled mounts work. Its a constant struggle for me not to fill all 4 of them, lol. Its just that with 200,000+ miles on it, I can almost gaurantee something inside the car will start to squeek, buzz, rattle.

As for suspension, I'm running completley stock 200k stuff. lol. It rides so nice... but handles like a brick compared to the civic's im used to driving. If I do anything with the suspension (likley) Its going to be some TEIN High Tech lowering springs on KYB Gr2's.

I keep reiterating the main goal of my car is to keep every creature comfort possible. If I dont, then it may as well be a race car... And as soon as a project car turns into a race car in my head, the budget is completley blown and I just go nuts. As of right now, I'm still on budget with 1100 invested into the whole project, including the car. My "out" to myself is, This is a budget build... Nothing has to be 100% sweet or show quality. I figured the right people will appreciate this build.


I thought about venting that area, I just did not see any benifit to cutting up the car in that corner with the battery underneith it. What I am pondering on doing is making an air box for the turbo inlet that forces air to be drawn through the intercooler. I'm just not sure if the trade off of the air flow through the intercooler is going to be worth the restriction and increased temprature before the turbo.
.............ay the black looks. I got meth to help me cope now. lol. I honestly doubt that any color is going to really help me out. The intercooler will actually smoke during a pull (you can see it in the dyno pull video) Thats why I say f-it, and im keeping it black, just spraying meth.

Again, thanks for all the imput guys.

considering your underhood temps are probably in the 300-350 degree range when going down the road, getting them down to under 200 degrees would be like adding 25-40hp depending on a few other factors. you'd DEFINITELY feel it and long term, your hoses would last longer, your cooling system would be able to cool better, turbo would last longer, etc.

i spent a solid year working on JUST that type of stuff, hitting the dyno about once every other week seeing what did and didn't work

the car was a modded merkur xr4ti with a t3/4 turbo. from the factory they have 175hp, no intercooler and run at 15psi at max rpm

putting a top mount intercooler on it from an svo stang bumped me up to 210hp

painting it white, venting the hood (svo stang scoop) and venting my wheel well lowered my underhood temps by about 50 degrees, cooled the intake temps about 35 degrees and gave me another 10-12hp at 15psi

thing is, i was able to bump the boost up to 18psi (3psi is about 24hp) and run the same engine temps as stock

after that i STILL had lower underhood temps so i increased the hp by around 40% overall, lowered the temps the motor had to deal with (shit lasted longer) and it was all 100% positive

eventually i was making over 300hp to the wheels with an auto without ever opening the block, the CR was low so there was more power to be had there for sure but from the factory, they were so inefficient with heat that fixing that was the biggest upgrade i could have ever made

people usually ignore that but with turbo cars, heat is the biggest thing holding most back

[rickyduckworth]

and for the record, simply touch your intercooler after driving down the road for a little while.

when it's not hot to the touch, it's probably doing ok

chances are, it's pretty hot, maybe even too hot to touch

[MikeW]

Not a fan of the vented look, but its about time someone did a functional scoop. I love that idea.

Great start.

[Ralphie]

This is quite a build.

Looks really good.

This is exactly(sort of) what i want to do with my next cb. I want some balls, but completely stock with creature comforts.

No JDM or wild kits, i want it to speak for itself, the timeless Accord look, but a little beefier under the hood then usual.

Loving it, going to be checking in on this for sure.

[HondaBob]

Not a fan of the vented look, but its about time someone did a functional scoop. I love that idea.

Great start.

I'm not either, lol.. but it had to be there to function.

people usually ignore that but with turbo cars, heat is the biggest thing holding most back

Yeah, I know. It was not ignored, I just cannot do anything about it. I am not keen on putting a front mount on the car, and no amount or color of paint is going to help this situation out. The intercooler is just not efficent enough. After a run, the intercooler is around 210-230*f, water instantly evaporates from it. Thats why the meth injection is set up. Meth is pretty cheap, and it is going to cool the intake temps down dramaticly, and I will not have to worry about the intercooler efficency much anymore.

[F20A CB7]

Welcome Honda BOB.

Can u plz post pics of your civic brother. So the forum can see