My "ricer" K24 powered CB7

[2point6]

i dont think he was either. lol


i know with the K series, you can swap the heads and theres like a 20 or 30hp gain from it if im correct.

In my case... the car was suprisingly fast with just the stock CRV engine. I don't know what it would have made at the ground, but we did the head swap and changed the program in the ECU. The program came from a car that was already tuned running the same exact set-up. It made 208whp and 167wtq. My engine is different though. I additionally have the PRB intake manifold, and a Hasport header. The other "tuned" set-up was stock stuff.
I could probably put this back on the dyno and tweak a little more out of it, but I will save that for now and focus on the boost set-up.

[jdmtypecb7]

dude thats hot keep that good shit up

[deevergote]

the k motors are nice, but u can make any motor fast, if u have the money. LOL I like the k24 motor because its bigger. BUt with the amout of momey u spend, it be cheaper to get a stroker kit for a h22.

The cost of an H22 is usually about $1000 on average. A stroker kit, along with all the new parts necessary to make it work correctly (do you REALLY want to use old, tired parts?) will increase the cost considerably. A stroker kit is not exactly the best modification... It will even out the cost, sure... but the K series would still probably be the more cost effective swap after that.

Now, get an H22, cams, a nice header, and some headwork... You're looking at about $5000 when all is said and done (bottom end untouched, except for maybe some ARP rod bolts), and you'll have a nice motor for roughly the cost of the K swap. Maybe a bit more by that point.


My point is that if you want to plop in a motor, the H is a more reasonable choice stock for stock than the K. If you want to mod on a budget, the H or F are better choices. If you want originality, a growing aftermarket, and the obvious potential of the K, then the K swap is for you. It's not yet a swap to do on a few months worth of lunch money, though!

[rexload]

Excellent work! K24 looks so good in a CB. And wow almost 210whp and it is just the beginning. So basically all OEM parts besides the header and it is already good for 13s.

When I grow up and finish school I am doing K24 in my Civic

[jm991700]

The cost of an H22 is usually about $1000 on average. A stroker kit, along with all the new parts necessary to make it work correctly (do you REALLY want to use old, tired parts?) will increase the cost considerably. A stroker kit is not exactly the best modification... It will even out the cost, sure... but the K series would still probably be the more cost effective swap after that.

Now, get an H22, cams, a nice header, and some headwork... You're looking at about $5000 when all is said and done (bottom end untouched, except for maybe some ARP rod bolts), and you'll have a nice motor for roughly the cost of the K swap. Maybe a bit more by that point.


My point is that if you want to plop in a motor, the H is a more reasonable choice stock for stock than the K. If you want to mod on a budget, the H or F are better choices. If you want originality, a growing aftermarket, and the obvious potential of the K, then the K swap is for you. It's not yet a swap to do on a few months worth of lunch money, though!

HOw u figure a stroker kit is not a good ideal. Stroke kits is one of th oldest modification you can do to a engine. They must be doing something right, since people still do them. SO i disagree with what u saying.

[brian g]

Some questions answered

is there any way i can swap a k24 in my automatic and keep it automatic

Unfortunately not without some custom parts and expert help. The auto presents some problems with the wiring and ECU. Becuase of the low demand for auto swaps it's not worthwhile to come up with the new mounts, ECU and harness at this time.

im not sure what happened to my other posting, but there was a guy saying the k20 was easier to put in than the k24. they also say the k24 isnt as powerfull as the k20 why is that?

That's not really accurate. The K24 from the TSX produces the same peak HP as the K20. It is really more powerful though considering it has a much higher peak torque figure.

The K24 from the CRV or Accords are initially only 160hp but with cams from Skunk2 or Crower will equal the peak HP of a K20 and with much more torque.

As for easier installation, not really. Since there is only one mount kit at this time and it is designed to be used with the TSX or Accord engine and trans, it is definitely much easier to use those engines. The kit will however work with the K20A from an Accord Euro R, but they're pretty rare.

Durable and reliable is probably false. It has smaller rod bearings, which means it isn't as high rev friendly.

More durable at the same power output. Meaning if you build an NA H-series to make 270 and an NA K24 to make 270, the K will be more durable. It's just a more advanced engine.

The K-series swap will never be as inexpensive as the H-series swap in the Accord chassis. We are doing what we can to control costs by making the kit fit the Accord K-series engine and transmssion as well as the TSX's. The Accord K24 sell for as little as $450 along with the another $450 for the trans. Unfortunately you will pay another $3000 or more for all the other parts: ECU, K-Pro mod, shifiter, axles, mounts, alternator, PS hoses, header, etc. But the engine has huge potential. It is much easier to get 275 hp out of a K24 (without boost) than any other 4 cylinder.

It's funny, when the K-swaps first started a typical swap into a EG Civic ran around $8000 - $10000. Who knew someone would want to pour twice the cars value back into it for a motor swap. It will be interesting to see if the same thing happens with the Accord enthusiasts.

But if you do, we've got your back.

Brian G
Hasport

[owequitit]

More durable at the same power output. Meaning if you build an NA H-series to make 270 and an NA K24 to make 270, the K will be more durable. It's just a more advanced engine.

Hmm. Thank you for clearing that up. I am hoping that you will find plenty of customers for this swap, which would definitely be a good thing for the community. While it may never be as cheap as an H, I can remember a time that those were prohibitively expensive as well, so we are headed in the right direction.

Welcome aboard, it is good to have you.

[93_accord_lx]

thats crazy sick, one question tho, are you going to change where your air filter is? just looks like you could turn it, extend it, an try to get it closer to cooler air.

[2point6]

thats crazy sick, one question tho, are you going to change where your air filter is? just looks like you could turn it, extend it, an try to get it closer to cooler air.

I am going boost, so I will be getting rid of the intake.

[deevergote]

HOw u figure a stroker kit is not a good ideal. Stroke kits is one of th oldest modification you can do to a engine. They must be doing something right, since people still do them. SO i disagree with what u saying.

Is that your only reasoning for that statement? Do you have an understanding of the benefits and downfalls of a stroker kit? How about specs. How much are you increasing stroke? Are you increasing bore at the same time?

Yes, stroking an engine is an old, tried and true method. Yes, there are gains to be had. However, a stroker kit is NOT cheap, and the gains don't justify it as a primary modification. It should be included in a MAJOR engine build... one that would break the banks of all but the most serious of enthusiasts (at least in this circle...)


Disagree all you want, but my statement still stands. If you weigh a K swap to a stroked H or F, the K would probably be the more reasonable option, all things considered. The price would be close, if not cheaper for the K... and you'd still retain stock reliability with the K, rather than an engine that's been rebuilt and modified on the inside. That CAN be reliable, and will be if built by someone who knows what they're doing (2point6, for example), but modifying ANYTHING always increases the risk of failure.

[deevergote]

Unfortunately not without some custom parts and expert help. The auto presents some problems with the wiring and ECU. Becuase of the low demand for auto swaps it's not worthwhile to come up with the new mounts, ECU and harness at this time.



That's not really accurate. The K24 from the TSX produces the same peak HP as the K20. It is really more powerful though considering it has a much higher peak torque figure.

The K24 from the CRV or Accords are initially only 160hp but with cams from Skunk2 or Crower will equal the peak HP of a K20 and with much more torque.

As for easier installation, not really. Since there is only one mount kit at this time and it is designed to be used with the TSX or Accord engine and trans, it is definitely much easier to use those engines. The kit will however work with the K20A from an Accord Euro R, but they're pretty rare.



More durable at the same power output. Meaning if you build an NA H-series to make 270 and an NA K24 to make 270, the K will be more durable. It's just a more advanced engine.

The K-series swap will never be as inexpensive as the H-series swap in the Accord chassis. We are doing what we can to control costs by making the kit fit the Accord K-series engine and transmssion as well as the TSX's. The Accord K24 sell for as little as $450 along with the another $450 for the trans. Unfortunately you will pay another $3000 or more for all the other parts: ECU, K-Pro mod, shifiter, axles, mounts, alternator, PS hoses, header, etc. But the engine has huge potential. It is much easier to get 275 hp out of a K24 (without boost) than any other 4 cylinder.

It's funny, when the K-swaps first started a typical swap into a EG Civic ran around $8000 - $10000. Who knew someone would want to pour twice the cars value back into it for a motor swap. It will be interesting to see if the same thing happens with the Accord enthusiasts.

But if you do, we've got your back.

Brian G
Hasport

I started reading this and thought "who the hell else is there on this site that knows firsthand what it takes to put a K series into a CB7?"... then I read further.

Welcome aboard, Brian! Thanks for bringing our ancient chassis into the era of new technology!

[steelbluesleepR]

It's after noon already, and I'm hungry. I'm going to hop in my 6 second Enzo, drive up to the Hamptons, where I'll have Donald Trump personally serve me a dish of lightly blanched baby hearts. Then I'll haul my 56" penis down to Compton, which will take me all of 3 hours in the Enzo, of course, so I can collect my fortune from my hos... because I'm a pimp. A real tough one. One with a gun. Yeah. I'm a tough rich pimp with a gun, a fast enzo, and a huge dick. Don't fuck with me. This is the internet!

damn, thats too good!

[RiceKillinSi]

HOw u figure a stroker kit is not a good ideal. Stroke kits is one of th oldest modification you can do to a engine. They must be doing something right, since people still do them. SO i disagree with what u saying.

Stroker kits have been around since the beginning of time, but stroking a small displacement 4 banger is totally different than stroking a Chevy 350 out to a 383. The cost to benefit ratio is much smaller on a four cylinder.

[SN2BH22CB7]

i dont think he was either. lol


i know with the K series, you can swap the heads and theres like a 20 or 30hp gain from it if im correct.

yeah...like taking the K24 block...and slapping a Redtop K20 head on it!

and doing some tuning with Hondata K-Pro.

[jm991700]

Is that your only reasoning for that statement? Do you have an understanding of the benefits and downfalls of a stroker kit? How about specs. How much are you increasing stroke? Are you increasing bore at the same time?

Yes, stroking an engine is an old, tried and true method. Yes, there are gains to be had. However, a stroker kit is NOT cheap, and the gains don't justify it as a primary modification. It should be included in a MAJOR engine build... one that would break the banks of all but the most serious of enthusiasts (at least in this circle...)


Disagree all you want, but my statement still stands. If you weigh a K swap to a stroked H or F, the K would probably be the more reasonable option, all things considered. The price would be close, if not cheaper for the K... and you'd still retain stock reliability with the K, rather than an engine that's been rebuilt and modified on the inside. That CAN be reliable, and will be if built by someone who knows what they're doing (2point6, for example), but modifying ANYTHING always increases the risk of failure.

Keep trying to explain yourself,(which u seen to do an essay on everbodys qoutes on here) , u not changing my mind. In fact what have u done, since you seem to have all the answers. Or u just go on what other people say.