Rear disc swap and bushings install, just did it!
Just finished my rear disc brake swap and rear poly bushings install and wanted to share my experience and pictures.
Here are the parts from the donor car, a 92 EX, $125!:
So first thing was first, getting everything cleaned up and this is what took the longest. Pulled everything apart and started grinding it all down and removing as much of the rust as possible.
Rotors after a quick hose down:
Left caliper after a few minutes with a die grinder (right caliper got the same treatment):
Next was installing the new bushings. With a great suggestion from rexload, I picked up a ball joint press and was able to push out the old ones and install the new ones like magic!
New poly bushings installed:
And while I was at it I replaced the old rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joint:
After I got those done I ran the new emergency brake lines and started installing the knuckle. After a few minutes of pulling, twisting and prying the awkward sob was installed!:
Then just like clockwork the splash shield, hub, rotors, calipers, and pads were all installed:
And just like everything else I do, I don't half ass it, so I also swapped out the 3030 prop valve with the appropriate 4040.
And for those of you who don't know where the prop valve is located it's hidden underneath the master cylinder, here are a few pictures to help you locate it (I removed the master cylinder for easy viewing and installing).
Once I got the prop valve removed I compared it with the new 4040, you can see the difference in the mounting bracket (4040 on the left, 3030 on the right):
So next was swapping the brackets, but what is this?
A tamper proof torx screw? No problem! A T30H torx bit is the perfect size, so remember that for future reference. Once the screws were removed the prop valve comes apart so be careful! Inside are two springs (a large one and a small one), two washers, and a rubber seal, just make sure the mating surfaces are clean and the springs and washers are all in their place when you reassemble it. Also a quick note about reassembling the valve, the use of a bench vise is GREATLY recommended to press the two parts together so you can screw everything back together with ease.
Once the new 4040 was on the old bracket, reinstalled it and the master cylinder and bled the brakes.
So there you go, a great weekend project. Add a few days if you want to grind a bunch of rust and paint everything.
A quick list of everything I replaced/fixed during this whole adventure:
Installed new upper and lower control arm bushings as well as new strut mount bushings
Repacked hub bearings
Install new boots, castle nuts, the works on the upper control arm/ball joint
Ground down the rotors, hub, calipers, splash shield, and other miscellaneous parts/nuts/bolts
Applied coatings/paint to everything imaginable to protect it from rust
Rebuilt the calipers, installed new piston boots (biggest pain in the ass of the entire project)
Here are the parts from the donor car, a 92 EX, $125!:
So first thing was first, getting everything cleaned up and this is what took the longest. Pulled everything apart and started grinding it all down and removing as much of the rust as possible.
Rotors after a quick hose down:
Left caliper after a few minutes with a die grinder (right caliper got the same treatment):
Next was installing the new bushings. With a great suggestion from rexload, I picked up a ball joint press and was able to push out the old ones and install the new ones like magic!
New poly bushings installed:
And while I was at it I replaced the old rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joint:
After I got those done I ran the new emergency brake lines and started installing the knuckle. After a few minutes of pulling, twisting and prying the awkward sob was installed!:
Then just like clockwork the splash shield, hub, rotors, calipers, and pads were all installed:
And just like everything else I do, I don't half ass it, so I also swapped out the 3030 prop valve with the appropriate 4040.
And for those of you who don't know where the prop valve is located it's hidden underneath the master cylinder, here are a few pictures to help you locate it (I removed the master cylinder for easy viewing and installing).
Once I got the prop valve removed I compared it with the new 4040, you can see the difference in the mounting bracket (4040 on the left, 3030 on the right):
So next was swapping the brackets, but what is this?
A tamper proof torx screw? No problem! A T30H torx bit is the perfect size, so remember that for future reference. Once the screws were removed the prop valve comes apart so be careful! Inside are two springs (a large one and a small one), two washers, and a rubber seal, just make sure the mating surfaces are clean and the springs and washers are all in their place when you reassemble it. Also a quick note about reassembling the valve, the use of a bench vise is GREATLY recommended to press the two parts together so you can screw everything back together with ease.
Once the new 4040 was on the old bracket, reinstalled it and the master cylinder and bled the brakes.
So there you go, a great weekend project. Add a few days if you want to grind a bunch of rust and paint everything.
A quick list of everything I replaced/fixed during this whole adventure:
Installed new upper and lower control arm bushings as well as new strut mount bushings
Repacked hub bearings
Install new boots, castle nuts, the works on the upper control arm/ball joint
Ground down the rotors, hub, calipers, splash shield, and other miscellaneous parts/nuts/bolts
Applied coatings/paint to everything imaginable to protect it from rust
Rebuilt the calipers, installed new piston boots (biggest pain in the ass of the entire project)
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