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wich one would you choose...

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    #16
    Originally posted by Joshs92ex
    Ported box vs sealed box is just a personal preference. It's just loud, booming bass vs crisper bass.
    It's a lot more complicated than that. Size of the box, internal bracing and tuning of the port are all factors in the equation. A lot of SQL systems run ported enclosures. They can sound pretty much as tight as a sealed box, but with improved longevity for the woofer due to the improved cooling air flow over the voice coils.
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      #17
      well the size of the box u can make it a little small if u wanted to being that ur gonna have plenty of power. i used the DD box design for my type r and it sounded wonderful .... but its kinda big for the type R.... ur geting the T5 right??? let me see what i can dig up.
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        #18
        http://soundstream.com/manuals/2007/t5.pdf try that link.... if it doesnt work go to the sebsite and get the manual for the woofer and ull be good. let me know if there is more that i can do for you
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          #19
          Originally posted by cb7rider
          alpine. cant go wrong
          x3


          98 Sunfire GT current DD

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            #20
            alpine it can go wrong .... lol memphis it can go wrong ... audiobahn it was always wrong lol soundstream will be the better choice in what he has listed.
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              #21
              thanks loud92CB7db18.i already chek there manual but there is 2 type of box and i'm not sure wich to make.both are vented.

              optimum enclosure: 1.75 ,
              port : 3X8.75long ( circle port )
              31 hz
              max power 900w

              high output enclosure : 2.25 ,
              port : 35 sqin X 26in ( this mean that a have to do a 26 inches long port with 35 square inches...so a rectangular port, 26in long and 1.3in wide?)
              36 hz
              max power 800w.

              i have this site to calculate the box : http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

              so wich would be the better box and why?

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                #22
                well look at the specs for the power.... one ur power drops the other it stays at 900... i would choose the optimum being it will be better for everyday music..... but thats just me.... i like MUSIC LOUD!!!!!!!
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                  #23
                  Look at the tuning frequency of the two boxes. The optimum box should play lower and be a little less boomy. The high output is just as it sounds. Louder but not real low sound quality. Its up to you. However, for me I would also choose the optimum box, but that's what I want to hear you may want something different.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Joshs92ex
                    x2! I've never had an Alpine blow. Whether it's regular speakers or subs. Type-X subs are.... amazing, to say the least.
                    alpine ftw

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                      #25
                      soundstream

                      soundstream all the way baby.
                      i would rather be dead and cool then alive and uncool.

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                        #26


                        um....

                        someone's spending a decent bit of $ here and not doing great homework quite yet...

                        I know that sounds pretty harsh but the box is EVERYTHING and if you don't even know what type you want you need to start over before you go to the sub/amp combo. Knowing what I do now you could build a large ported box with 5-600w with most high end subs and max them out even if the 'rms' or 'max' wattage is higher. I still don't fully understand all the ways of how the math works, but I know enough to plug the numbers in.

                        Look for 'winISD' I think it is, or just google sub box software. There are a few and they are free. You get the specs of the sub, type them in, set the size you want, ported or sealed, and it will tell you how to best port it for specific tuning, or in a sealed box it will tell you the sound response based on the total size.

                        With that much power especially if you go over the rms wattage if you go sealed it's a no brainer pretty much, but ported you MUST do some h/w or else you may blow your speaker because you had an additional 20db gain that was too much for the speaker to handle. I can't tell you HOW many ghetto setups I always see blown b/c someone just 'threw the sub in there' and had no clue if it was even near right.

                        icixsound.com

                        You can just look around and find one of the guys who's been there forever, ask them to plug the numbers in for you if you aren't sure. They'll tell you what all exactly you need to know!

                        But if you don't want to spend the time, and you do go ported, make sure it's within specs and for a car setup the 'prefered' tuning is around 35hz, up to 50hz. If you make a REALLY big box, you must not use as much power. 5-600w in massive boxes are used in homes and can shatter glass. over 5-600w actual wattage to any speaker not tuned well will blow just about anything.
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                          #27
                          ummm dude STFU ur misleadin and ur info is wrong man.... do u think that the designers of the subs didnt think about portws boxes??? seriously wtf if a sub is 900 rms its made to take 900 rms in or outta a ported box. i dunno where ur getting ur info but its mixed up really bad.... but ill tell u what since 500-600 watt can blow out a window how come im not blowing out my windows left and right i got 2500 rms split between 4 subs to a box tuned to 41hz..... whats goin on there????
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                            #28
                            Originally posted by loud92CB7db18
                            ummm dude STFU ur misleadin and ur info is wrong man.... do u think that the designers of the subs didnt think about portws boxes??? seriously wtf if a sub is 900 rms its made to take 900 rms in or outta a ported box. i dunno where ur getting ur info but its mixed up really bad.... but ill tell u what since 500-600 watt can blow out a window how come im not blowing out my windows left and right i got 2500 rms split between 4 subs to a box tuned to 41hz..... whats goin on there????
                            saying stfu on a beginner forum will get you banned.

                            who made you god of the subject? I NEVER said you can't use a ported box. I said you have to DO IT RIGHT or you will mess things up. If you have done even a little audio homework beyond non-audio dedicated forums. You wouldn't be questioning the fact that if you make a box larger than the factory specifications you will increase the extensen of the sub and push it's Xmax. You get a gain above the input level with less wattage. If you push the sub at it's rated power while going beyond recomendations (bigger box=slower response=basket moving TOO FAR) you WILL destroy the speaker sooner or later. This is not disputed among ppl who know this stuff. that's why the designers say to make something a SPECIFIC size. But you CAN play with the spec's and either push more wattage or use a larger box. But still to KNOW how to tune it helps to understand these principals and how it works, because you may build that 1.85cu ft x2 box but tune it way lower than it's supposed to, you may tune it too high and drown out your mids/have no low punch. It's just good to understand the principals before you just build a ported box on your own.

                            yes it MAY take 900 in or out of a ported box, IF IT'S BUILT RIGHT! that was my whole point, THINK BEFORE YOU POST like someone else is stupid. You have no idea what I may or may not know. I know PLENTY of ppl who do installs who think they know stuff who I used to listen to who I have realized understand very very little about how tuning actually works if at all.

                            Now go read somewhere like what I already posted, www.icixsound.com, if you are an actual audiophile you will love it! and learn ton's there! Feel free to post a thread asking if making a bigger box will require less watts.

                            And btw, manufacturers specs in the majority of this market are bull and you should know that. Alpine is one of the lowest level well known products that gives what they say they do. MANY speakers blow in 'manufacturer' spec boxes when hooked up to the ACTUAL wattage they are rated at. Good companies hold, great companies go way higher. This is common knowledge among proffesional installers who know what they're doing.

                            I'm not gonna answer the last question really, you could look those kinds of installs up and find them if you cared. But yes, you aren't blowing stuff up. It's tuned to 41 hz, what's the rolloff? what db is it supposed to be putting out at 41hz? did you put the numbers in winisd or do the calculations for the gain you got? Different speakers/boxes move different amounts of air. There's an 11inch cube (sealed) subwoofer that runs the same wattage as yours. There are people who go from homeade 18" theater subs to 12" subs built buy the company elemental designs, who gain quite a bit of volume over 'better' and 'higher wattage' setups. Oh and how did you wire them if it's split? parallel? series? what Ohm resistance ? Do you have power conditioning to ensure you are getting enough power to actually get that kind of wattage? Have you tested your amplifier on a meter? how many volts did you get if you did?
                            My 91 Accord F22B DOHC MR


                            My 1996 Civic Ex H23A VTEC MR

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by SpitFire
                              thanks loud92CB7db18.i already chek there manual but there is 2 type of box and i'm not sure wich to make.both are vented.

                              optimum enclosure: 1.75 ,
                              port : 3X8.75long ( circle port )
                              31 hz
                              max power 900w

                              high output enclosure : 2.25 ,
                              port : 35 sqin X 26in ( this mean that a have to do a 26 inches long port with 35 square inches...so a rectangular port, 26in long and 1.3in wide?)
                              36 hz
                              max power 800w.

                              i have this site to calculate the box : http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

                              so wich would be the better box and why?
                              I'd say make the port diameter larger and make it shorter to at least 2 inches. You want to avoid getting 'port noise', where air hits the port and makes a nasty slapping sound. A good finish (rounding all the port edges, inside and out) will help, but making it a bit wider will help a bit as well. I prefer the slot port vs the round, but that's just me.
                              My 91 Accord F22B DOHC MR


                              My 1996 Civic Ex H23A VTEC MR

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                                #30
                                ur throwning the icix forum around like its sumthing that is new... i have been there read and yes i check on there every once and a while. noone has made me anything i have never claim to be anything more either. by the way u know the icix forum is basicly a forum for the elemential guys (one reason i dont go there often) and i think 2 other manufacturers....where did i say that box can be bigger but u cant give it less power??? i have never said that. and win isd wouldnt do much for a setup in the real world u cant get the cabin gains and cant tell how sumthing will respond with seats up or rear speaker pulled out of the back decks.... win isd is just a basic calculator its a good box designer but thats where it ends it cant predict numbers accurately. and port noise are u serious.... if its in the trunk u wont ever hear port noise and i have never rounded any edges and i NEVER have had port noise.
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