Rewiring all the speakers to an Amp, impossible front?

[loud92CB7]

okay im sick of this and im surprised that sumone hasnt mention goin through the factory gromet. u can either take the fender off or u can take off the inner trim. and rung through with the factory wire. i did for the main reason i needed 2 runs of wire not one. i am running components that are bi-amped. which is where my tweets have there own channel and my mid-bass has its own channel. for ANY DAMN COAX speaker thats out ur factory wire will be enough there is damn reason for u be running new wire for ur fucking pioneer that are 300MAX watts. some people forget that there a few of us that do STEREOS FOR A LIVING meaning its not a hobby its our life.....

[loud92CB7]

Most of the replies in this thread are ridiculous.

Any professional installer (you Best Buy/Circuit City guys are not professionals) will tell you the same thing; Do not re-use the stock wiring when using an external amp for your speakers!

While the wiring may be good for up to 50-75W RMS, you need to take into account how long those wires are, where they run (temperature DOES matter!) and how that wire is connected to your speaker(s)/crossover(s)/amp(s), and, more often than not, those stock wires are 20-22AWG, which cannot handle the power that most aftermarket amps reproduce.

When installing a new head unit in a vehicle, if the speakers are aftermarket (not OEM) I generally run new wiring (usually 16AWG) to each speaker, since an aftermarket head unit will generally reproduce more power than a stock (OEM) head unit.

When installing an amp to power speakers, I also run new wiring to each speaker that is getting amped externally, usually 12-16AWG, depending on the application. Anything over 50W RMS gets 16AWG, anything over 100W RMS gets 12AWG. It's better to be safe than have to do it all over again.

For those of you who claim to be 'pushing 100+ Watts for years without a problem on stock wiring' or 'when I install an amp I just cut the wires behind the deck to power the speakers with the amp', you're not getting 100+ Watts RMS, you'd be lucky to be getting half that.. and you'd be lucky if you noticed the difference between 50W RMS and 100W RMS, since the difference is inaudible in most applications.

On a side note: I sure would hate to be the guy that pays the shop that UrDoneSRH installs at to install my equipment.. no offense buddy, but you don't know squat about mobile audio, or you're hiding it real well behind that plethora of BS you just dug up on google. It's methods such as you described that piss a lot of people of, especially those of us who make a real living installing mobile audio & video professionally (again, Best Buy/Circuit City guys - you're 1 week training course doesn't make you a 'pro').

Sorry if this offends anyone, but the truth hasn't been told thus far, and it needed to come out. I don't mean to be rude, I only mean to prove a very valid point.

-mak


PS: To the OP: If you ever decide to re-wire those, the proper way is to remove your fenders (I know, I know.. bare with me) on your cb7, you'll see the plastic flange exposed where the stock wiring resides, you can then pull the kick panels and carpet down inside of the vehicle, and push a 'reach rod' (or metal coat hanger, if you don't have the 'reach rod') carefully through that stock flange, from the outside.. once you see it pop through on the interior of the vehicle, attach your speaker wire to the end of it, and pull it back out.

On the driver's side of your cb7, there are a couple of bolts to take the stock fusebox down so you can get to that opening, just be careful to not unplug any of the wiring from the side/back of the fusebox. Repeat the above steps carefully, and enjoy!

so tell me what makes sumone a pro...????

[Shaiyelito]

Most of the replies in this thread are ridiculous.

Any professional installer (you Best Buy/Circuit City guys are not professionals) will tell you the same thing; Do not re-use the stock wiring when using an external amp for your speakers!

While the wiring may be good for up to 50-75W RMS, you need to take into account how long those wires are, where they run (temperature DOES matter!) and how that wire is connected to your speaker(s)/crossover(s)/amp(s), and, more often than not, those stock wires are 20-22AWG, which cannot handle the power that most aftermarket amps reproduce.

When installing a new head unit in a vehicle, if the speakers are aftermarket (not OEM) I generally run new wiring (usually 16AWG) to each speaker, since an aftermarket head unit will generally reproduce more power than a stock (OEM) head unit.

When installing an amp to power speakers, I also run new wiring to each speaker that is getting amped externally, usually 12-16AWG, depending on the application. Anything over 50W RMS gets 16AWG, anything over 100W RMS gets 12AWG. It's better to be safe than have to do it all over again.

For those of you who claim to be 'pushing 100+ Watts for years without a problem on stock wiring' or 'when I install an amp I just cut the wires behind the deck to power the speakers with the amp', you're not getting 100+ Watts RMS, you'd be lucky to be getting half that.. and you'd be lucky if you noticed the difference between 50W RMS and 100W RMS, since the difference is inaudible in most applications.

On a side note: I sure would hate to be the guy that pays the shop that UrDoneSRH installs at to install my equipment.. no offense buddy, but you don't know squat about mobile audio, or you're hiding it real well behind that plethora of BS you just dug up on google. It's methods such as you described that piss a lot of people of, especially those of us who make a real living installing mobile audio & video professionally (again, Best Buy/Circuit City guys - you're 1 week training course doesn't make you a 'pro').

Sorry if this offends anyone, but the truth hasn't been told thus far, and it needed to come out. I don't mean to be rude, I only mean to prove a very valid point.

-mak


PS: To the OP: If you ever decide to re-wire those, the proper way is to remove your fenders (I know, I know.. bare with me) on your cb7, you'll see the plastic flange exposed where the stock wiring resides, you can then pull the kick panels and carpet down inside of the vehicle, and push a 'reach rod' (or metal coat hanger, if you don't have the 'reach rod') carefully through that stock flange, from the outside.. once you see it pop through on the interior of the vehicle, attach your speaker wire to the end of it, and pull it back out.

On the driver's side of your cb7, there are a couple of bolts to take the stock fusebox down so you can get to that opening, just be careful to not unplug any of the wiring from the side/back of the fusebox. Repeat the above steps carefully, and enjoy!

agree 100%

[Shaiyelito]

so tell me what makes sumone a pro...????

honestly man those best buy , circuit city and big stores they not even know nothing about audio, they just learn about what they carry, you ask them for sugestions and they say "replace this,replace that, i got what you need". You ask them something and they go to the book,God!!!!! and thats a pro!!!. A pro would always try to get the best of what you have, if it doesnt work then go for replacements or upgrades. Always talk honestly to the customer, its not all about a sell, its about quality. Like those amp kits they sell, they like 50% plastic and 50% wire, come on!!!. Plus they charge you a lot for some little things.

[loud92CB7]

u cant get pissed at what they charge for the fact thats MRSP. sume people have to get there start sumwhere. many installers and sales get there start at places like. now what they decide to do when at the big box stores is all a personal thing. i know the reps of big box stores so i knew i didnt want to stay there. but if u asked the high end stores for job they wanted sumone with experience. i have been at my current job for a year now. which is a highend shop outside of nashville. i dont do just audio i do video wheels and tires and other misc things. do i consider myself a pro? well to be honest no. do i feel i can install bit better then so called "pros" well yeah..... but oh well... sorry endless rant! but u gotta start sumwhere

[tgdrums1990]

er.. i dont know about that

running a new wire is not going to increase power to the speakers what are you using to power the speakers? just the deck or an external amp? you need at least 80-100w of rms power before seeing any loss in oem wiring

Think about it like this. Not to confuse the man above in his quest for running wires.

18 gauge wire has about 3 ohms higher resistance than 16 gauge. 3 ohms would make a audible diffrance.

[sonikaccord]

Think about it like this. Not to confuse the man above in his quest for running wires.

18 gauge wire has about 3 ohms higher resistance than 16 gauge. 3 ohms would make a audible diffrance.

How do you know this?

[accordztech]

honestly man those best buy , circuit city and big stores they not even know nothing about audio, they just learn about what they carry, you ask them for sugestions and they say "replace this,replace that, i got what you need". You ask them something and they go to the book,God!!!!! and thats a pro!!!. A pro would always try to get the best of what you have, if it doesnt work then go for replacements or upgrades. Always talk honestly to the customer, its not all about a sell, its about quality. Like those amp kits they sell, they like 50% plastic and 50% wire, come on!!!. Plus they charge you a lot for some little things.

i dont know about that man. depends on how dedicated they are. i wouldnt go saying that about everyone.

...a pro wouldnt be selling....a pro would be installing.

[Tnwagn]

This thread is dumb as hell.

Trying to learn about car audio on the internet is getting as bad as hearing people talk about racing on the internet.

For those of you that are sending 200+ Watts RMS to your front door speakers I would like to see some proof. Because that's a RIDICULOUS amount of power for those speakers.

Secondly, unless you are running quite a bit of power through those front wires (90% of people won't) then there is no reason to upgrade. I've yet to hear of anyone burning out their front speaker wires from too much power in a CB.

Lastly, just because someone works at Best Buy doesn't make them shitty. Same goes for someone that works at an independent shop. I would only judge an installer by their work and not by their place of employment.

[19dabeast85]

I could sit here and explain exactly what/why you need whatever gauge for whatever RMS power............2 years of Physics taught me alot about electrical circuits. But I suggest you buy and read this book specifically about car stereos. The author is extremely detailed and covers very basics to extremely complex formulas for the perfect sub box shape and port size/placement. He gives you the same formulas I learned in Physics to determine what size wire you need over a certain distance and certain power, and much more. Good book!

[loud92CB7]

...........2 years of Physics taught me alot about electrical circuits. But I suggest you buy and read this book specifically about car stereos. The author is extremely detailed and covers very basics to extremely complex formulas for the perfect sub box shape and port size/placement. He gives you the same formulas I learned in Physics to determine what size wire you need over a certain distance and certain power, and much more. Good book!

haha ummm there is no PERFECT sub box. and you did catch if i saw right that book was written in 98..... ALOT has changed.

and TN wagon i have 200 watts goin to my front speakers .... 100 to the tweeter and 100 to the mid.... and yes thats RMS its not to loud ... but i see where your goin

[Tnwagn]

haha ummm there is no PERFECT sub box. and you did catch if i saw right that book was written in 98..... ALOT has changed.

and TN wagon i have 200 watts goin to my front speakers .... 100 to the tweeter and 100 to the mid.... and yes thats RMS its not to loud ... but i see where your goin

Not really much as changed when it comes to the math. Think about the Theile-Small parameters. Companies still use those as the standard way to rate their products and those were established over 30 years ago. Same goes for subwoofer enclosures. They understood the way sound travels as well as we do today and their math behind speaker enclosures is the same as if you tried to compile a new book today.

Now I wouldn't trust that book to tell you what the best brand is of something or what kind of features to look for. And amplifiers may be way more efficient, but that won't make a difference when you run the numbers. A certain amount of power through a wire is going to heat the wire a certain amount no matter if it's in 2008 or 1998.

As for your front speakers, they sound impressive. But the only Memphis SQ 6.5" speakers I have seen have an RMS rating of 50 Watts. Not trying to say you aren't doing it, but I just want to know which speakers you have so I can understand why you are sending 200 Watts RMS to a set of 6.5"s.

[loud92CB7]

As for your front speakers, they sound impressive. But the only Memphis SQ 6.5" speakers I have seen have an RMS rating of 50 Watts. Not trying to say you aren't doing it, but I just want to know which speakers you have so I can understand why you are sending 200 Watts RMS to a set of 6.5"s.

yes i am running the memphis SQ's. i dunno if u saw where it says u can BIAMP them. so i am using a memphis 2004 one side runs the tweets and one runs the mids. the tweets are rated for 50rms and the mids rated 50 rms. 100 per side totals 200. but thats for right now ... i wanna move up to the big 5004 and do 125 to each speaker.

[Tnwagn]

yes i am running the memphis SQ's. i dunno if u saw where it says u can BIAMP them. so i am using a memphis 2004 one side runs the tweets and one runs the mids. the tweets are rated for 50rms and the mids rated 50 rms. 100 per side totals 200. but thats for right now ... i wanna move up to the big 5004 and do 125 to each speaker.

Ohhhh, gotcha. I understand now, and that's what I figured was the case. After going back and actually reading (DOH!) I see where you said they were biamped back a few posts ago.

[sonikaccord]

yes i am running the memphis SQ's. i dunno if u saw where it says u can BIAMP them. so i am using a memphis 2004 one side runs the tweets and one runs the mids. the tweets are rated for 50rms and the mids rated 50 rms. 100 per side totals 200. but thats for right now ... i wanna move up to the big 5004 and do 125 to each speaker.

are you running active?