Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

roulet of electrical issues need help

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    roulet of electrical issues need help

    I have Tecu problems I've replaced caps on the unit maybe I didn't do it correctly followed DIY still have transmission issues drives great in town below 50mph sometimes other times straight limp mode one gear 4000 to 5000 rpm highway killing gas mileage. Also radio removed it plugged it back in have power have glow when lights are on no code message or visual can't type in security code doesn't even respond? I love my ex sedan I just about got her engine parts fully replaced I don't want to give up now.

    #2
    It's a slew of potential things that could have gone wrong. I would start simple and check fuses, and grounds.

    YouTube Clicky!!

    Comment


      #3
      Is the TCU throwing codes? If so, what codes? You may have more issues with the TCU, bad connections, bad solenoids, ect.

      Does the radio display anything? Verify you have both power and ground on the harness with the car on. With accessories on, you should have two wires providing 12v.

      I've had bad grounds cause similar issues, but you might have more going on.

      Comment


        #4
        I like to think I have a pretty mechanical mind but the electrical is kicking my butt. Ok, TCU replaced all caps and resistors, all I have is 2nd and 3rd gears and a solid glow D4 light. All fuses are good and I have spares for days. I should check connectors, and
        solenoids now? Is there a DIY or material on such a procedure? How do I read codes on a solid D4 light?

        Radio good fuses how do I proceed to check further?

        Also, have a passenger signal light parasitic drain on battery attached to small light fuse?
        How proceed?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by CB7Tactical69 View Post
          I like to think I have a pretty mechanical mind but the electrical is kicking my butt. Ok, TCU replaced all caps and resistors, all I have is 2nd and 3rd gears and a solid glow D4 light. All fuses are good and I have spares for days. I should check connectors, and
          solenoids now? Is there a DIY or material on such a procedure? How do I read codes on a solid D4 light?

          Radio good fuses how do I proceed to check further?

          Also, have a passenger signal light parasitic drain on battery attached to small light fuse?
          How proceed?
          TCU: Someone correct me if I'm wrong but a solid D4 light does indicate a failure of some sort. My guess would be the TCU still. Do you have access to a spare TCU that works in another car?

          There's definitely a guide on here to pull TCU codes, as well as what each code is. Search around.

          RADIO: If you don't already have a Multimeter, go to Harbor Freight and get the cheap $10 digital multimeter. Set it to DC voltage, anything 20 or above works. On the plug that connects to the radio itself there is one chassis ground, one battery 12v, one accessory 12v, one dimmer voltage (for when you have the headlights on), and a bunch of other things. Someone else has posted the pinout diagram on here, just search for it. Verify that you can get 12v out of those pins. BATT should always be live, ACC should only be live when the key is in ACC position, and the dimmer should only be on when the parking lights or headlights are on.

          LAST ONE: Umm..what? I have no clue what you mean by that.

          Oh..when you replaced the capacitors and resistors, did you make sure that the polarity of each electrolyte capacitor was as how it was originally? Because I KNOW messing that up will break s***.

          Comment


            #6
            I am leaning toward the IDE that my tcu repair is good and its connector plugs or the shit solenoid. And I will say why last night we had major rain storm when I started my car leaving work no D4 light no issues what so ever blew my freaking mind. I was thinking that maybe all the moisture caused bad connecttions somewhere to connect. Got home trouble shot a little started the car a few times 3 out of 5 it worked like new. This morning still a little humidity ran great two hours later some hot sun back to limp mode. Crazy sorry if I'm getting annoying.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by CB7Tactical69 View Post
              I am leaning toward the IDE that my tcu repair is good and its connector plugs or the shit solenoid. And I will say why last night we had major rain storm when I started my car leaving work no D4 light no issues what so ever blew my freaking mind. I was thinking that maybe all the moisture caused bad connecttions somewhere to connect. Got home trouble shot a little started the car a few times 3 out of 5 it worked like new. This morning still a little humidity ran great two hours later some hot sun back to limp mode. Crazy sorry if I'm getting annoying.
              No worries, this stuff is fun to me. Unfortunately, without being there with you I can't fully diagnose your car. You're going to have to follow the wires and investigate everything on your end. A bad connection sounds likely, check your harness, grounds, ect. Otherwise you're going to have to put the work in on this, you've got Pandora's box, and we have no clue what is in it.

              Comment


                #8
                You should get your charging system including your battery tested. I've seen cars do weird shit when the battery's dead
                sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sweet Honda accord gods have granted me the answer to my transmission woes today I have cracked the enigma code that is the D4 light on my 93 ex. Drumroll, freaking shift solenoids, found the absolute most pristine solenoids I could find in the junk yard installed with freshly repaired TCU. I've never been more happy to complete a project and drive to work in that car. Now, just radio, and passenger turn signal light that is draining battery and some how connected to interior light fuse. Thanks guys you were awesome.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X