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How many people use their stock car speakers wires to run the front speakers?

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    #16
    I'm not going to single people out here, but there is a lot of misinformation in this thread.

    22 AWG wire can transmit around 15 watts, or around 1a, safely. This isn't a problem for the stock head unit, or aftermarket head units marketed as 50x4 or 60x4, since all of them usually put out an RMS rating of 25x4 or less. Even then you're pushing it, but since you aren't constantly pushing 25x4, you'd be fine with that stock 22 AWG wire.

    By using 22 AWG wire for anything more than 15-25 watts RMS, you're not only creating a bottle neck and robbing your speakers of power, but you're creating a fire hazard since that tiny 22 AWG wire will heat up greatly when you try to push more power through it.

    Those of you using the stock wiring with an aftermarket amp that is pushing more wattage (RMS, NOT MAX) than this, you should really upgrade your wiring. Aside from the benefits of pushing more power to your speakers, you're cutting down the risk of damaging your speakers, amp and/or car.

    For reference, here is an AWG guide. Take the "Maximum amps for
    power transmission" and multiply it by 14 for the maximum 'safe' power transmission for that given gauge of wire. The list is conservative, and you can squeeze slightly more power through each gauge of wire, but it's best to stick to the numbers on the list to be safe.

    I have 16 AWG pure copper wire run to my components in the doors. I ran my wires through the fender/door jam area and into the edge of the boot, but wrapped the wire in insulated tape to protect it from the elements.

    -mak

    PS: Also take note that the above guide is for copper wire. If the CB7 has CCA (copper clad aluminum, a mix of copper and aluminum strands) than it can carry even less power than an equal sized copper wire.

    EDIT: I forgot to mention that I buy my 16 AWG pure copper wiring in 100ft spools from Radio Shack for $21.99 per roll. It comes in brown and white and is approved for in-wall and outdoor use, so it's safe for in-vehicle applications. Here is a link if you'd like to check it out on their website.
    Last edited by mak; 05-08-2009, 09:30 AM.




    Bought From: MadSpleen85, jimy, CB7_ACCORD (kouzie), Chrisfrom1986
    Sold To: vinbon63, chessboxer, darkfusion42, LowNknoxville, bowzil, 1993hAccord, mcdizzle, 93accordfreak, lilb_1979, rocketman_471, Bad_dude
    Traded With: cb95spd, chessboxer, sohc em
    [ Completed | Pending ]

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      #17
      i do, but i dont have a choice right now

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by jhoff_cb7 View Post
        i do, but i dont have a choice right now
        Why's that?

        -mak




        Bought From: MadSpleen85, jimy, CB7_ACCORD (kouzie), Chrisfrom1986
        Sold To: vinbon63, chessboxer, darkfusion42, LowNknoxville, bowzil, 1993hAccord, mcdizzle, 93accordfreak, lilb_1979, rocketman_471, Bad_dude
        Traded With: cb95spd, chessboxer, sohc em
        [ Completed | Pending ]

        Comment


          #19
          Maybe I can get some ideas on how to run it in my car as the wire harness boot is a tough one to get any cable through without disassemble the door or fender.

          Comment


            #20
            mak im just curious have you felt the stock speaker wires actually get heated up due to the power?
            Members Ride sold...
            I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by mak View Post
              Why's that?

              -mak
              stock bose amp

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by loud92CB7db18 View Post
                mak im just curious have you felt the stock speaker wires actually get heated up due to the power?
                I would think a short would do it but other than that, the signal are not at a constant transmission to cause burn up. Power cables are more likely to burn up but least likely with speaker cables.

                Comment


                  #23
                  In all my cars I have owned, I have used the stock speaker wires.
                  MRT: http://www.cd5tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=5748

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Thanks guys for everything.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by 90Haccord View Post
                      I am using the stock wiring for my front speakers in the doors. I just tap'ed into the wires where they enter into console(where your headunit goes). I'm running an old school Fosgate 125.2(610watts RMS) to them + my 6x9s in rear deck.

                      No problems at all.

                      This is what I do with nearly every 4 channel I install. Use Speed wire, it's your best friend. All the wires you need, color coded, in one bundle, easy to run from the amp to behind the radio to tap into the factory wires.

                      Bought from: TypeG,mak,CB7_ACCORD,ChampCoupe,Blackex
                      Traded with: Cb7xChun
                      Sold to: Rob_is_legend,DaddyO,daheavyking
                      Sedan MR Thread Coupe MR Thread Prelude Si MR Thread
                      My huge For Sale Thread

                      Comment


                        #26
                        I worked as an installer for years and I would always use the undamaged factory wires for everything but very large installs ( up to 150 Watts RMS/channel) I would leave the wires from the install harness loose and bring the wires from the amp to the head unit and hook them in there . Be sure and get the wires coming from the head unit seald up good so the don't short out the head unit amp .

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by darkfusion42 View Post
                          This is what I do with nearly every 4 channel I install. Use Speed wire, it's your best friend. All the wires you need, color coded, in one bundle, easy to run from the amp to behind the radio to tap into the factory wires.
                          Could you give me a link to the speed wire you are talking about? I cannot seem to google it out.
                          Thanks,

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by loud92CB7db18 View Post
                            mak im just curious have you felt the stock speaker wires actually get heated up due to the power?
                            Yes, years ago my buddy disregarded my lecture on wiring gauges and their limits and during a comp. the loom of speaker wires behind the head unit got hot enough for the jackets to melt, which left the exposed wires touch and shorted out his head unit. Lucky for him he took my advice on insulating the loom of wires with vinyl tape, or his entire car could have gone up in flames.

                            He was running an Xtant 404M at 100x4@2ohms to two sets of Rainbow (the model eludes me) components in his front doors.

                            Originally posted by dksix View Post
                            I worked as an installer for years and I would always use the undamaged factory wires for everything but very large installs ( up to 150 Watts RMS/channel) I would leave the wires from the install harness loose and bring the wires from the amp to the head unit and hook them in there . Be sure and get the wires coming from the head unit seald up good so the don't short out the head unit amp .
                            This doesn't surprise me at all, and is the number one reason I never allow my friends and family to have their mobile audio/video items installed by shops that hire just anyone off of the street.

                            I'm not saying you're not good at what you did, but you were obviously taught to install mobile audio/video by people who didn't know what they were doing, which lead you to do it the wrong way. Even MECP certification means less today than it did years ago, but at least some of the 'better' shops require it for their installers.

                            I'm not trying to insult you, so I hope you don't take it that way.. but the fact of the matter is; no, you should not re-use the stock wiring when running an external amp, if you intend to run more power than the wiring can handle.

                            -mak




                            Bought From: MadSpleen85, jimy, CB7_ACCORD (kouzie), Chrisfrom1986
                            Sold To: vinbon63, chessboxer, darkfusion42, LowNknoxville, bowzil, 1993hAccord, mcdizzle, 93accordfreak, lilb_1979, rocketman_471, Bad_dude
                            Traded With: cb95spd, chessboxer, sohc em
                            [ Completed | Pending ]

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by darkfusion42 View Post
                              This is what I do with nearly every 4 channel I install. Use Speed wire, it's your best friend. All the wires you need, color coded, in one bundle, easy to run from the amp to behind the radio to tap into the factory wires.
                              also known as 5wire.. usually has ur basic grey and white with the wires marked or the rear colors purple and green marked... the odd wire is a remote wire for the amp.i used this when running my setup
                              Members Ride sold...
                              I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by loud92CB7db18 View Post
                                also known as 5wire.. usually has ur basic grey and white with the wires marked or the rear colors purple and green marked... the odd wire is a remote wire for the amp.i used this when running my setup
                                That fifth wire is not meant to be a remote lead, it's meant to be grounded at the head unit, then to the chassis where your amp is grounded. It's supposedly suppose to reduce noise in the lines. There were/are some RCA cables that come with this wire as well.

                                -mak




                                Bought From: MadSpleen85, jimy, CB7_ACCORD (kouzie), Chrisfrom1986
                                Sold To: vinbon63, chessboxer, darkfusion42, LowNknoxville, bowzil, 1993hAccord, mcdizzle, 93accordfreak, lilb_1979, rocketman_471, Bad_dude
                                Traded With: cb95spd, chessboxer, sohc em
                                [ Completed | Pending ]

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