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How to run amp wires in your CB7

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    How to run amp wires in your CB7

    Do not connect the power wire to the battery yet!!!!!!!

    Ok, I hope this is going to get stickied. You have two choices when it comes to running your power wire in the cb7. If you have an automatic, you can drill the plate where the clutch cylinder would be in a manual, or you can just take the easy way and go through the grommet above the ECU. I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow.

    After you run your wire through the firewall, decide which side of the car you are going to run your wires down. Your signal wires (RCAs) and remote wire should be on the opposite side of the car from your power wire. This is to prevent signal degradation and noise caused by the field generated by electrical current.
    Once you get to the back seat (if you're mounting your amp in the trunk), you can either remove the side pad or the whole bottom section of the back seat. I'm telling you about both of them because they are the easiest/best ways to get your power wire into the trunk. you'll need a 10mm socket for both the seat bottom and the side pad. (I didn't put mine back - BITE ME!)


    Now that you have your power wire in the trunk, the actual amp mounting location is up to you, but you do want to mount it to keep it from flopping around. The back of the backseat is perfect, regardless if it's up or down. If you have a quality product and it's wired properly, you won't have any heat issues unless you live somewhere that the temperature stays above 85 degrees F.

    When grounding, there is a debate over whether to use the seatbelt mounts or to make a new dedicated ground location. I'm going to tell you that, whichever you decide, you should sand the area down to bare shiny metal so you'll have the best possible contact for the ground. After you have your ground tightened down and secure, either paint or apply anti-oxidant gel to the area to prevent rust (screw cancer).

    After you have your ground finished and all the other wires are connected to the amp, head unit and subwoofers/speakers, then and only then, connect the power wire to the battery and enjoy your new system.
    If a problem arises shoot me a PM or go back over the list and check all your connections. You'll almost always find the problkem yourself.


    P.S. If you PM me, I'm going to start off by asking you the stupid things first and going from there. If you have a multi-meter or a DMM or test light, please mention it when you PM me.
    Last edited by loud92CB7; 04-13-2009, 10:47 PM. Reason: edited by visualpoet thanks much for looking it over!!
    Members Ride sold...
    I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

    #2
    saved for pics*****
    Members Ride sold...
    I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

    Comment


      #3
      Your hopes are granted.

      1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
      1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
      2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
      2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
      2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
      2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






      Comment


        #4
        Great one. Voting for pics. I got to see what I am doing.
        Thanks.

        Comment


          #5
          A little pic help.

          Comment


            #6
            i say clean it up and make it more readable then put it in the DIYs


            They rise their wooden pints and they yoik and sing
            And they fight and dance 'till the morning


            Dont forget my MRT for my 1992 Honda Accord LX

            Originally posted by deevergote
            Everything in Japan is made with carbon fiber and used panties.

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              #7
              Originally posted by J3wman View Post
              i say clean it up and make it more readable then put it in the DIYs
              ???? explain a little please sir ????
              Members Ride sold...
              I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by visualpoet View Post
                A little pic help.

                Great pic dude. Could you include the pic from the engine bay side so we can see where it's coming out to?
                Thanks.

                Comment


                  #9


                  Close up:




                  An often overlooked tip is that your wires should never have any bends with a radius tighter than 5 times the diameter of the cable. (which is why I have the looping curves in mine) That means if your power cable is 1/2 inch, your bends should have no less curve than a circle with a 2.5 inch radius, or 5 inches across. Tighter bends mean higher resistance, which means less efficiency and higher heat at the bends.
                  Last edited by visualpoet; 04-14-2009, 08:39 AM.

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                    #10
                    nice breaker on the power wire, I need 2 get one of those.

                    Originally posted by visualpoet View Post


                    Close up:




                    An often overlooked tip is that your wires should never have any bends with a radius tighter than 5 times the diameter of the cable. (which is why I have the looping curves in mine) That means if your power cable is 1/2 inch, your bends should have no less curve than a circle with a 2.5 inch radius, or 5 inches across. Tighter bends mean higher resistance, which means less efficiency and higher heat at the bends.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by visualpoet View Post


                      Close up:




                      An often overlooked tip is that your wires should never have any bends with a radius tighter than 5 times the diameter of the cable. (which is why I have the looping curves in mine) That means if your power cable is 1/2 inch, your bends should have no less curve than a circle with a 2.5 inch radius, or 5 inches across. Tighter bends mean higher resistance, which means less efficiency and higher heat at the bends.


                      (I wonder if my shoddy job at installing my wiring led to this post )

                      I love it, it looks great! When I re-wire my amp (maybe this afternoon if I have time) I'll try running it that way.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX 4 doors, AT4.

                        Could some one please advise on:
                        1) Where to ground if the amp is mounted under the passenger's seat?
                        2) If the amp is mounted in the trunk? Seatbelt bolt?
                        3) This is the hardest one for me, how to run the speaker wires into the front doors. I have looked at that grommet boot in the doors and I cannot figure out how to run the 14 gauge wires into the doors. I need pics if possible.

                        Thanks,

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
                          I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX 4 doors, AT4.

                          Could some one please advise on:
                          1) Where to ground if the amp is mounted under the passenger's seat?
                          2) If the amp is mounted in the trunk? Seatbelt bolt?
                          3) This is the hardest one for me, how to run the speaker wires into the front doors. I have looked at that grommet boot in the doors and I cannot figure out how to run the 14 gauge wires into the doors. I need pics if possible.

                          Thanks,
                          You really should have started your own thread, but;

                          1: Ground it to anyplace you can bolt to bare metal (for instance the seat bolts, but make sure you have good metal to metal contact)
                          2: See #1
                          3:
                          See the "tube" going into the door? That's the wiring harness. With a little work, you can find it in the kick panels and work you wires through it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Approximately how long is the power cable that is require to run from the battery to the trunk for my 1990 Accord LX Sedan? I bought an installation kit and it's 17 ft long, not sure if that's enough? I plan on running 2 amps so I might mount them both behind the back seats.
                            Can I use grease on the ground point to keep it from rusting? I am going to sand the paint off the metal for the ground point.
                            Thanks.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
                              Approximately how long is the power cable that is require to run from the battery to the trunk for my 1990 Accord LX Sedan? I bought an installation kit and it's 17 ft long, not sure if that's enough? I plan on running 2 amps so I might mount them both behind the back seats.
                              Can I use grease on the ground point to keep it from rusting? I am going to sand the paint off the metal for the ground point.
                              Thanks.
                              17 feet might be cutting it a little close, IIRC. The grease depends on the grease you use. I personally use a product called NO-OX. I don't know where you'd get it (maybe an electrical supply store). I had mine left over from my telecom installation days.

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