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Beginners Guide to Engine Bay Cleaning

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    Beginners Guide to Engine Bay Cleaning

    NOTICE: The following is simply for informational purposes. I am NOT responsible for any of your actions that may result in damage to your paint finish, engine bay, etc. Always wear the appropriate safety equipment (goggles, gloves, etc.) when working with solvents, de-greasers, and flammable materials. Always read and follow the manufactures directions when using any chemicals. NEVER attempt to clean a hot or warm engine. Doing so could result in burns to yourself or damage to some engine parts.

    A note on steam cleaning: it can do an impressive job on those engines that have years of grime on them, but the process is harsh and will more then likely destroy decals and manufactures marking on the underside of the hood and in the engine bay. I would recommend if you feel this is necessary in cleaning your engine, that you let a professional, or someone with experience either guide you through the process or do it for you.


    Keeping an engine clean can do much more than enhance its appearance. Oil and fluid leaks will be easy to spot. A clean engine will run cooler and is easier to repair and maintain. I have received a few questions about engine cleaning and with spring right around the corner, hopefully, I figured now would be a good time to share. My engine was clean when I purchased the car, however many people aren’t this lucky to find a nice clean engine bay. We all have the occasional engine leak and keeping this area of your car clean makes finding the problem area MUCH faster to locate and easier to repair.

    Start your engine cleaning routine by putting a plastic bag over the engine air filter if it is exposed. You may also want to protect other parts from moisture, such as the distributor and electrical parts. Aluminum foil often works where it is not possible to use a plastic bag. Don’t forget to remove whatever it is you use to cover these parts before you attempt to start the engine.

    Washing the engine is different from washing the exterior of the car since the dirt and grease is usually thicker, thus making it tougher to remove. Making it easier is the fact that since most of the engine compartment does not have a glossy finish; you don't have to worry about scratches. For that reason, it is ok to rinse using high water pressure. You can then go at it with liberal amounts of soap and water. Unlike the exterior, it is ok to use common dishwashing detergent, since its grease cutting abilities can make the job go faster. You should use a mitt or sponge other than the one used on the car body however.

    If you've been regularly cleaning your engine, like myself, then some Simple Green degreaser (found in the automotive section of many stores) will usually work for the smaller, simpler problem areas. For a larger application a mixture of soap and water should do the trick. If grease and grime still remain, more drastic steps may be required. Stronger cleaners or solvents will handle the problem areas. A 50-50 mixture of kerosene and water will make a good “Heavy-duty” homebrew grease cutter (remember to always take the proper safety precautions when using flammable liquids such as kerosene). If necessary, use a putty knife or paintbrush, or a toothbrush, to loosen the tough areas. SOS pads also work well on metal surfaces. A toothbrush can also be used to take care of detail areas. Dry using an assortment of hand towels.

    Battery corrosion and the battery box can best be cleaned with a 50-50 mixture of water and baking soda. Also if it is just starting to corrode I would try using some Car Battery Anti-corrosion spray, which not only cleans up what is already there, in most cases it will help prevent the ugly little problem from returning so soon. The towels or rags used to clean the battery should NOT be used on any other part of the car.

    Dressings (such as; tire dressings) can be applied to plastic surfaces and electrical insulation for a clean, new look. Again, DO NOT attempt to clean a hot engine, since it is dangerous and some parts could be damaged.

    For a nice final touch, wash and wax the underside of the hood. It'll set the engine off well and complete the job nicely and you don’t want the attention to be taken away from your freshly cleaned engine bay by a little grime on the underside of the hood.

    LMK if you have any questions and I will do my best to help you find your answers. Later

    #2
    nice very nice im sure this will be helpful to many ppl good write up

    PSN ID's:Tidashoni
    1992 Accord EX Coupe
    My FS Thread
    Not so DD 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
    Originally posted by deevergote
    Boosting with a carb is like being a sniper with a bazooka... it works, it gets the job done, but it's not the most precise method.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks man. I plan I doing a little bit more detailed DIY style write up of this, with pics, later in the spring with Bri (SoCqT08)'s CB if she will let me. Hopefully she will. Later

      Comment


        #4
        this will definitely be helpful to a lot of people like me. as soon as it gets warmer outside i will get out there and give my engine a good cleaning.
        Originally posted by deevergote.
        And please, for the love of God, type like a human being!

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          #5
          Thanx 4 the writeup! I really need it. Now i know how about to clean my engine bay. Thanx again
          vouches --> mj1220mj,Trickedaccord92, Maple 50175, Customlowz, 92lx

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            #6
            good write up but maybe some pics would help too

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              #7
              nice write up. i cleaned my engine/engine bay following a thread here elsewhere (which i think had pics)... couldn't find the heavier simple green, just the regular strength. but i did find (i forget the name. was in a purple bottle) a degreaser and used that. worked wonders. don't think the engine had been cleaned since it was new. first thing i hit was the F22A1 stamp. didn't even know it was there lol... went for one of the blackest spots... couple squirts... "ooooh..." haha. went nuts after that. had fun. was careful. shoulda taken before and after pics. engine's nothing to brag about, but at least it ain't dirty as hell anymore. just rinsed with a very light mist from the hose attachment so the stuff wasn't sitting and corroding anything when i was done.

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                #8
                Prolly Castrol super clean or Purple power that you used. Those 2 and Simple green and all great products.
                H22 Accord

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                  #9
                  yeah, Super Clean was the stuff. *thumbs up* got it back out and cleaned my brother's engine too (f22b in his 94 lx)... didn't seem to make as big of a difference when we did his, but it certainly helped. had to get in there with a toothbrush on a few spots the grease was pretty thick.

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                    #10
                    Those work great just that I use The purple power one and it stained the paint in my engine bay but took the grease and grime off

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                      #11
                      Thanx for the right up, i'll be doing this once all the snow melts, and next year i'll have to get a beater car for playin in the snow so I can keep the CB7 sparkly clean


                      Originally posted by cp[mike]
                      the joys of digging into an old car, its like christmas every time you try to fix something. "woohoo!! more rust and broken parts! sweet!!!"

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                        #12
                        I tried the bag thing, good advice but it messed me over once before I was waiitng for 2 hours hoping my distro would dry then, we went to autozone got some wire drier spray, popped the cap, worked like a champ, so have some on hand especially if you go to a car wash and it's your only ride!

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