Negative camber good or not?

[Odogg427]

If your really low could you use anchor bolts in addition to ball joint camber kit to have a wider range of camber adjustment?

[deevergote]

Not without MAJOR sheet metal modification. Either of those kits at the maximum level of correction will cause the upper control arm to hit over bumps. If you're low enough that you could use one of each style, the upper ball joint would need to be moved so far that it would likely be resting on the inner wheelwell sheetmetal when the car is sitting still!

Honestly, if you're that low, chances are good that there are plenty of other safety concerns in addition to having a reasonable amount of camber.

[H311RA151N]

Those are actually the worst type of kits to get, because when you adjust the camber more positive you are actually just increasing the length of the upper arm. This is like a double whammy in terms of grip, less static camber and the longer upper arm decreases the amount of camber gain you will get under compression.

Using longer bolts and washers in the rear for example would be better because at least the arm is staying the same length.

We don’t have a whole lot of options. The SPC kit is one of the better ones although I don’t like ball joint style camber kits in the front.

As far as shimming the rear it is ok as long as it’s done right. Most people just put a few washers in there and use the old bolts or maybe they get longer new bolts but it’s not the right grade. It’s easier to be precise with a camber kit rather than shims. My alignment shop won’t touch a car that has been shimmed with washers. If it’s been shimmed with a shim kit then they will. I shimmed my Integra before I sold it to my dad and I got lucky and it ended up @ -0.6* in the rear.

But again, everyone just drives their CB to work and to the store and so on. Very few people are doing anything that would be worth considering the length of the upper arm, static camber and all that. If one was attempting squeeze every last bit of performance out of the car it would be understandable to go to great lengths like earlier stated.

The very few people on here that are racing their CB, myself included, have done modifications and made adjustments that take our CBs leaps and bounds beyond most and will be very competitive in the type of racing that we are involved in. My set up is the Neuspeed Super Cup kit which is Koni yellows with the adjustable perches to adjust the ride height, paired with Neuspeed race springs. Some people say my combo is the best available for the CB.

With that being said, I have more to gain by increasing my skills than trying to get more out of my car with camber. The car will already go where my skills will not and I have a fairly deep circle track racing background. And I can already take the car to unbelievable levels with Wal-Mart’s crappy Goodyear Viva 2 all-season tires.

One should do what’s best for their application and what they are doing with the car. There is no need in building a race car when you not going to race it. And that’s almost everyone on here. And those that like to play around will be more than happy with a quality set up and the appropriate camber without having to sweat the small stuff like adjustable rear upper control arms. They will work just fine on a car that’s driven to work and put in some good corners on the way.

[TheProfessional]

We don’t have a whole lot of options. The SPC kit is one of the better ones although I don’t like ball joint style camber kits in the front.

As far as shimming the rear it is ok as long as it’s done right. Most people just put a few washers in there and use the old bolts or maybe they get longer new bolts but it’s not the right grade. It’s easier to be precise with a camber kit rather than shims. My alignment shop won’t touch a car that has been shimmed with washers. If it’s been shimmed with a shim kit then they will. I shimmed my Integra before I sold it to my dad and I got lucky and it ended up @ -0.6* in the rear.

But again, everyone just drives their CB to work and to the store and so on. Very few people are doing anything that would be worth considering the length of the upper arm, static camber and all that. If one was attempting squeeze every last bit of performance out of the car it would be understandable to go to great lengths like earlier stated.

The very few people on here that are racing their CB, myself included, have done modifications and made adjustments that take our CBs leaps and bounds beyond most and will be very competitive in the type of racing that we are involved in. My set up is the Neuspeed Super Cup kit which is Koni yellows with the adjustable perches to adjust the ride height, paired with Neuspeed race springs. Some people say my combo is the best available for the CB.

With that being said, I have more to gain by increasing my skills than trying to get more out of my car with camber. The car will already go where my skills will not and I have a fairly deep circle track racing background. And I can already take the car to unbelievable levels with Wal-Mart’s crappy Goodyear Viva 2 all-season tires.

One should do what’s best for their application and what they are doing with the car. There is no need in building a race car when you not going to race it. And that’s almost everyone on here. And those that like to play around will be more than happy with a quality set up and the appropriate camber without having to sweat the small stuff like adjustable rear upper control arms. They will work just fine on a car that’s driven to work and put in some good corners on the way.

^^Couldn't agree more.

I'm running Function Form Type 2's, and went Tien for everything else around the wheel, my CB7 coupe is dialed in for Downhill Runs and daily street abuse, so I to am one of those guys who milk suspension settings for all their worth (Have a rear bias, I like coaxed oversteer with minimal use of the handbrake which in a front wheel drive car makes for some wicked dynamic).

I like this response tho bro.