Neuspeed sport springs camber ?

[Stoner51]

So I have gathered all my parts.
All moog. Lower ball joints, tie rid ends. Upper control arms.
Neuspeed sport springs. I already have the koni struts installed with the stock springs.
My question is do I need to be worried about ground Clarence with the neuspeed sports? I could run them in the upper perch if needed. I want a mild comfortable lowered ride with a little bit stiffer suspension
Next about what is the uncorrected camber on the neuspeeds? In other words I assume I will only need the +- 1 deg spc kit. I would like to put this in ahead of time as I only have a shop press. so I want to press in the kit then install the

Thanks

Steve.

[deevergote]

Who's Clarence?


The Neuspeed Sport springs provide such a mild drop that you might not even have to worry about camber correction, as long as you keep an eye on your tires (and get a proper toe alignment.)
You could always pick up an Ingalls or SPC anchor bolt camber kit. They work just as well, and no press is required. I don't care for removing the stock ball joint, personally. Even Honda doesn't sell the joints by themselves (a new upper ball joint from Honda can only be purchased installed in an upper control arm... I believe they do that for a reason.)

I don't know for sure what the uncorrected camber would be with the Neuspeed Sport springs, but I don't imagine it'd be drastic.

[Stoner51]

Thanks deev. Clarence is the guy that types from my iPhone. It spell checks and makes you look stupid at the same time.
Ok. I may look into the anchor bolt style That will allow me to put them on after.

Thanks

Steve

[deevergote]

Perhaps someone with Neuspeed or H&R Sport springs will be able to confirm the amount of negative camber that drop provides. It's entirely possible that you won't even need a camber kit. Up to -1 degree is usually pretty harmless, and was even found by accordtunerx many moons ago to be the only way to avoid smacking the upper control arm on the wheelwell when you correct your camber (he was using Neuspeed Race springs... a lower drop by about .5") He said that the -1 degree showed very little evidence of improper tire wear. If you go that route, just be sure to check occasionally... since if the insides of the tires do wear out, those tires are done.

[owequitit]

I got about a -1.5 to-1.8 off of my Neuspeed sports. It is actually a pretty decent camber setting for a performance setup, but it will wear your tires faster.

I installed an SPC balljoint kit. Personally I like them better because you are less likely to have control arm contact with the fender well. Installation wise they are perfectly safe. I do have the ones with the low profile adjusting nut, but it still makes occasional contact with the wheel well on the right side.

And you will get just shy of 2" of drop, somitmisnt impossible to drive, but does require more awareness of what you are doing.

[4CYLPOWER92]

I've been on Nuespeed Sport's since 2005 and I love em, although I haven't ran anything else.

I first I ran them with stock shocks...for several years in fact. Camber was around -1.5 in the front after alignment. With the SPC ball joint kit I was able to get the camber more to the -.5 to -.9 range.

Now I have Koni SP3's which are very similar to Koni yellows except there are 5 height adjustment perches instead of 3.
The picture below is with this setup. I put the Koni's on the lowest perch and it lowered the car quite a bit more compared to the stock shocks. But the car was slamming very hard on every bump imaginable. It was horrible. Part of the problem was I had the older SPC kit with the bigger adjustment nut. Anyways, here is the picture: And BTW, the wheels are 17's


To get rid of the banging problem I raised the front of the car up slightly to the 2nd lowest perch. This is still lower than you you'd be with stock shocks, which would be the middle perch. I like the stance ever better now because the front wheel gap is the exact same as the rear now. If you look at the picture above you can tell the front was a little lower than the rear.
The 2nd thing I did for the banging issue was install the newer spc kit with the lower profile nut. They don't make the old kit anymore so you don't have to worry about that.
I love my suspension now, no more banging issues unless I hit a pretty big bump. And I think the stance looks better too. I don't ever plan on changing my ride height again. As far as camber, I am once again at -1.5 (was probably at -2 on lowest perch but I can't confirm) with the spc's as positive as they can be adjusted without the outer edge of the kit hitting the outer edge of the fender well. They will hit if you adjust all the way positive, and this has nothing to do with the nut on the top.

[gloryaccordy]

Neuspeed Sport on Koni Yellows was the best setup I ever rode in. I still daydream about that setup, it rode so god damn perfect

[P5ylance]

My H&R Sports are roughly 1.8 inch drop. camber was -1.8 about as well. I have the Ingalls camber kit with the 1.25-3.00+ correction. The alignment guy said I wasn't able to correct to zero camber (probably fenderwell clearance) so I asked to get it to -1 degrees. This will help with clearance, but you'll most likely need to get under your wheel well and try and bang in the wheel well where the upper control arm (UCA) would hit. After you lower your car, you'll know where it hits because you'll see scuff marks and possibly the edge of your UCA will be all shiny and stuff from the rubbing.

Careful getting the camber kit that I got, because if my car is raised, I will not be able to correct the positive camber. in retrospect, the -1 to 1 kit would've been fine, since my kit isn't even that far out and the alignment guy said I can't pull it out anymore, so theres a bunch of travel left in the correction that will never be used.

[gloryaccordy]

You don't want zero camber. In turns that becomes positive camber on the loaded wheel.

I didn't have a camber kit when I rant that setup, and it handled perfectly.

[owequitit]

You don't want zero camber. In turns that becomes positive camber on the loaded wheel.

I didn't have a camber kit when I rant that setup, and it handled perfectly.

No. The DWB suspension increases camber as you load the wheel, I.e. more negative. By your logic, the stock suspension would decrease camber with load. This increase in negative camber with compression is the entire foundation of DWB being a better setup.

[10thAnnivCB7]

so much learning !!!!!! lol ,, i always wondered how all that worked

[Stoner51]

My H&R Sports are roughly 1.8 inch drop. camber was -1.8 about as well. I have the Ingalls camber kit with the 1.25-3.00+ correction. The alignment guy said I wasn't able to correct to zero camber (probably fenderwell clearance) so I asked to get it to -1 degrees. This will help with clearance, but you'll most likely need to get under your wheel well and try and bang in the wheel well where the upper control arm (UCA) would hit. After you lower your car, you'll know where it hits because you'll see scuff marks and possibly the edge of your UCA will be all shiny and stuff from the rubbing.

Careful getting the camber kit that I got, because if my car is raised, I will not be able to correct the positive camber. in retrospect, the -1 to 1 kit would've been fine, since my kit isn't even that far out and the alignment guy said I can't pull it out anymore, so theres a bunch of travel left in the correction that will never be used.

So you think you should have gotten the lesser correction ingalls kit?

Well my original plan was a two part install. New ball joints uca and tie rods. then the shocks
However I realized that the springs will prob settle over a month or so. So now I'm thinking I may Intstall the springs, ball joints and tie rod and wait to do the UCA for about a month or so.

I think I'm leaning towards anchor bolts now. They seem like they will be easier to install(just some bolts to remove). I am unsure of the kit I should get but I think the 1.25-3.0 camber kit. I don't see raising the car, and If I do I think I will just swap the original anchor bolts back in.
I plan on running 15in OEM wheels. Not sure which ones yet. I am leaning towards the 90-93 alloy, Or the 02 SE wheels painted graphite. The reason for saying this is Im not sure if the reason you couldn't get to 0 camber was you might be running bigger wheels?

thanks for everybody's help.


steve

[P5ylance]

yeah, bigger wheels might actually be the reason why he couldn't pull it out any further, good point!

Well, i guess with my set-up I'll have to stay around -1 for everything to fit, so my camber kit would be fine, but if I wanted to acquire more negative camber (for fitment of wheels and whatnot), I would not be able to do that because the +1.25 camber kit, as it's designed, won't allow for negative adjustment. The +-1 camber kit should.

But yeah, if I wanted to go back to my ultra-negative set-up or raise my car back up, I could swap back in my OEM anchor bolts. I don't foresee myself doing that anytime soon, so the +1.25-3.00 camber kit is fine for my applications (I wanted to straighten out my wheel, but thankfully it allows me to go to -1.1/-1.2 degrees of negative camber at my ride height).

anchor bolts are FAR easier to install. Plus, balljoint kits... the balljoint eventually wears out? it's a balljoint. In this sense, Anchor bolts make more sense to me. nuts are larger too, so no need for slim wrenches or something to adjust the camber (the balljoint kits have a lower profile nut so it doesn't bang into the inner wheel well... which it still will). I was able to do the anchor bolts with the basic metric sockets and my 3/8 ratchet wrench, then I took it to a shop to have them align it properly. DO THIS STEP IMMEDIATELY! Because the anchor bolts all slide individually, if they aren't adjusted evenly, you can affect your toe very quickly. Also, make sure to tell the mechanic that the nuts are in SAE. The ingalls hardware is NOT METRIC. mine weren't.

OEM Accord 15 inch wheels? the 9091 EX Alloys sometimes look dated, but when cleaned and polished and installed on a clean car, they look very good. I've seen newer gen accords run these wheels, and they fit well with any of them. the 9293 has a similar style wheel, but the spokes are spaced out more. The 6gen accord SE wheels are nice! an updated version of the 5gen Accord EX wheels. Also consider Acura CL 97-99 4-Lug wheels as well. they have some pretty good designs, but they are 16 inches.

but yes, back to the camber kit. The camber kit I bought, +1.25-3.00 kit, is perfectly fine, but you just need to make sure your drop is low enough so that you don't risk having positive camber. For me, I wanted to straighten out my wheel as close to OE specs as possible, and this kit was able to do that for me and get those numbers very closely. The +/-1.00 camber kit will be alright in correcting negative camber, though it will never get you to 0 if you have a low drop like mine or lower than mine. It should, however allow you to go a little bit more negative with your camber if you are interested in wheel fitment and hellaflush set-ups. SO! If you're looking to just correct your camber and get back to OE specs after lowering your vehicle a substantial amount, then get the kit I got, the +1.25-3.00.

[P5ylance]

No. The DWB suspension increases camber as you load the wheel, I.e. more negative. By your logic, the stock suspension would decrease camber with load. This increase in negative camber with compression is the entire foundation of DWB being a better setup.

so... Zero camber in the CB7 is perfectly fine and I won't need to worry about having positive camber in turns? If so, this would answer one of my questions about life